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Carb tuning

  • Thread starter Thread starter outlawfox13
  • Start date Start date
O

outlawfox13

Guest
Ok, well last night was a long one for me, I finally got the oring kit and took my carbs apart cleaned and then rebuilt. Now if I read correctly on the forums we turn the pilot screw 1.5 - 2 turns out from seated. I have done that, and then today when I get home I will bench sync them, as well as check float level(forgot last night). Only prob is I dont have a Carb tune tool. Is there any one in the MDW are that has one that can help me tune my carbs? I can help out where ya need as a favor in return for using your tuner. If so please PM me thanks Mike.
 
Did you "clean" them all in one night? :-k

Don't worry about tuning yet, take them back apart and give each carb body an overnight soaking in 'the dip'. :eek:

And those "pilot screws" you are speaking of are "idle mixture adjustment screws", and the best starting point is between 2 and 3 turns out from lightly seated.

.
 
outlawfox13 said:
Ok, well last night was a long one for me, I finally got the oring kit and took my carbs apart cleaned and then rebuilt. Now if I read correctly on the forums we turn the pilot screw 1.5 - 2 turns out from seated. I have done that, and then today when I get home I will bench sync them, as well as check float level(forgot last night). Only prob is I dont have a Carb tune tool. Is there any one in the MDW are that has one that can help me tune my carbs? I can help out where ya need as a favor in return for using your tuner. If so please PM me thanks Mike.
Click to expand...

Do you mean Carb Vacuum Synchronizing gauges/tubes? I would just buy a set since they will be part of your periodic maintenance routine. Kinda like a spark plug wrench...
 
I would agree on the 24 hr dip as I "cleaned" my carbs several times before I broke down and did it somewhat right by soaking the jets and the carb bowls 24 hrs in Gunk Carb dip.
This fall I am going to do it right by completely disassembling the carbs and soaking them one by one in carb dip for 24 hrs and I hope that next spring I will be rid of the Carburetor gremlins! I am also getting a new vacuum petcock to install next spring to get rid of that potential problem. Then I will go over to my Bud's house and get the use of his Carbtune to tune them and then use my colortune to help me get in the general area. Then I will do some more tweaking to get them just right.

I hope you listen and do it right the first time! It can save you a bunch of non riding :)

Good Luck
 
I have already dipped them. I have a parts washer at my job and I used that, I had it in there for like 2 hrs, I should have everything clean, cause that thing will strip the blueing off a gun lol. Thats why I am looking for some one local who has a color tune. If not then I will have to wait and buy one.
 
outlawfox13 said:
I have already dipped them. I have a parts washer at my job and I used that, I had it in there for like 2 hrs, I should have everything clean, cause that thing will strip the blueing off a gun lol. Thats why I am looking for some one local who has a color tune. If not then I will have to wait and buy one.
Click to expand...

Um, it took me four days to rebuild mine.

Step 1 I Un-assembled number one, soaked for 24 hours or so. Next day I cleaned the parts right from the can according to the tutorial and re-assembled and set on the table in the order from which it came. Un-assembled number 2 and put in the can.
Step 2 repeat step 1 untill you dont have anymore carbs left to clean.
 
24 hrs per carb

24 hrs per carb

outlawfox13 said:
I have already dipped them. I have a parts washer at my job and I used that, I had it in there for like 2 hrs, I should have everything clean, cause that thing will strip the blueing off a gun lol. Thats why I am looking for some one local who has a color tune. If not then I will have to wait and buy one.
Click to expand...

24 hrs and no less---2 hrs in a parts washer didn't do it near enough good. If you want them clean follow the advise
 
Well it did work really good, the bike is running great. This winter I'll break it down again and soak it for 24 each, but untill then I am having a blast riding. THanks again for advice.
 
OK well this is a bump for my thread.

Edit: since last post I have torn the carbs down soaked for 26 hrs, (were in a parts washer so I could soak all at once) and have done the valve adjustments. All are set at 0.004".

Now is there anyone in the Baltimore/DC area that has a carb tune? Or a home made one(that has worked with good results)? That can help me tune my bike. I am pretty proficient with mechanical work or carpentry. I am sure we could work out a deal. Please PM me if you have one. I can ride the bike to you. Mike
 
One thing I ran into is if the pilot air jet is plugged the carb cleaner wont touch it. I finally figured it out and ran some .009 guitar string thru & spray carb cleaner to get it to run on #1. Maybe Im just a dumass though, just thought Id mention it. PO had ruined the idle mixture screw heads so I had to build one set of carbs out of three and the #1 was plugged up even after soaking 24 hrs in carb cleaner.
 
outlawfox13 said:
I have already dipped them. I have a parts washer at my job and I used that, I had it in there for like 2 hrs, I should have everything clean, cause that thing will strip the blueing off a gun
Click to expand...
Just because it will "strip the blueing off a gun" does NOT mean that it will dissolve the junk left by evaporating gas. :eek:

There is a very simple reason there are so many different cleaners and solvents on the market nowadays. You have to use a solvent that matches what you are working with. It would be nice if your parts cleaner happened to clean your carbs for you, but I would try to stick to something that has been proven to work many times.

Now, how far apart did you have the carbs when you dipped the whole rack in the parts cleaner? If you had ANY rubber parts left in them, don't count on them working much longer. One of the reasons for completely dismantling the rack is so that you can also change all the rubber o-rings while you have them apart for dipping. Your rubber parts might be OK as long as you keep the parts together, but I have a feeling that if you take something apart for inspection, the rubber part will swell up and you won't be able to put it back together. Just be sure to have a new set of o-rings on hand when you do them again this winter. Best source is cycleorings.com.

.
 
Steve said:
Just because it will "strip the blueing off a gun" does NOT mean that it will dissolve the junk left by evaporating gas. :eek:

There is a very simple reason there are so many different cleaners and solvents on the market nowadays. You have to use a solvent that matches what you are working with. It would be nice if your parts cleaner happened to clean your carbs for you, but I would try to stick to something that has been proven to work many times.

Now, how far apart did you have the carbs when you dipped the whole rack in the parts cleaner? If you had ANY rubber parts left in them, don't count on them working much longer. One of the reasons for completely dismantling the rack is so that you can also change all the rubber o-rings while you have them apart for dipping. Your rubber parts might be OK as long as you keep the parts together, but I have a feeling that if you take something apart for inspection, the rubber part will swell up and you won't be able to put it back together. Just be sure to have a new set of o-rings on hand when you do them again this winter. Best source is cycleorings.com.

.
Click to expand...

The carbs were completely dissassebled and dipped for 26 hrs. I replaced all o-rings and sprayed and used the special tool as described on BassCliff's site. Carbs are cleaned and the bike has had the valves adjusted.

Please stop assuming that the carbs are not clean. I have reposted below that I SOAKED FOR 26 HRS!!! If all you are gonna do is bash me then please don't reply all I am looking for is someone local who can help me tune my carbs since I am low on funds. If I wassn't low on cash I would buy the morgan carb tune and not ask since I am getting the third degree from some ppl.

Thanks Mike
 
Bike is running good, but does not have full power. I am sure that the sync is off, other then that I am super happy with it. I have also replaced some gaskets to stop my minor oil leaks. I just can't believe where the bike is now and how it was when I got it from PO.
 
Cool, as long as you're happy with it.
If it was bench sync'd close it should run really good. Even at full power.

Folk just trying to help, no bashing..

If its not running at least 98% PERFECT then something aint right. I dont think its the sync if you bench sync'd it according to directions.
I sync'd mine holding it up to the sunlight and it runs great.
So good I think I've burned up the clutch, the thing hauls.
I went through 3 sets of plugs during the tuning process.
Wide open throttle sounds more like a needle or main jet setting.
 
I would say it is about 95% but this is also my first bike. I have plenty of power, but I know if I Vac-sync it I will have it all down.

About the bashing, I do agree that they needed to be soaked longer(and I appriciate the knowledge and know -how to explain they needed it), thats why I re-did it. I feel that I am being relayed as not doing it right if it is not done the same way as someone else. I know that the parts washer is good for this, that is why they are made. Also it has fresh fluid in it.

I just don't want some one to not read what I wrote, and just go off somthing else. Yes I should have saoked it longer the first time. I have learned this by having to do it twice, but to bring it up again after I have saoked it correctly I would have to call bashing.

I do have resourses to use so why not use them. I am not a rich man that is why I bought this bike, and not a brand new one(I also like to work on stuff) So far in total I have spent $650.00 on it thats even with the titleing fees.

So if there is no one local who can lend a hand, then I will have to build me a hame made one.

Thanks again for all the help and tips.
 
All Im saying is, I dont think sync'ing the carbs is gonna fix the problem.
If that thing wont screem up to about 8k then you're about 50% in my opnion. Cause thats where these bikes really shine.

Remind me, pods, stock exhaust? Change the jets?
 
I have no Idea if it was jetted, but it does have pods and I put a 1000L exhaust on it cause the PO had an 850 exhaust on it and the flanges did not fit correctly. The 1000L exhuast has baffles removed I think.

Now the bike does scream up to about 8k once warmed up.
Prior to that its a lil sluggish.

How do I tell if it was jetted?

And how do I know if it is for what I am running?

Also if a bike does not need vaccumed sync then why does it say to do it in the manual?

I did a good bench sync, and the bike runs good, but I can tell its not at full power. I am pretty positive once it is Vac sync'd then it will be all good.
 
If you're positive then have it done.
Its not gonna make that much difference, if any at all.
 
How do I tell if it was jetted?
Click to expand...

Open your carbs, remove the jets and read the numbers on them. With pods and pipe you will need to increase your main jet and shim or replace your needles. You will probably be better off buying a dynojet stage 3 kit for the bike.
 
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