• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Carb Wrestling

  • Thread starter Thread starter Flyin' Low
  • Start date Start date
F

Flyin' Low

Guest
Does anyone know of a way to remove (and re-install) the carbs on a '82 1100EZ (or similar, stock airbox/filter setup) without it becoming a full-on, balls-out, grudge-match wrestle to the death?

Perusing past posts, I don't see anything other than "switch to pods" which is not an option - I don't want to change the bike, I'm just wondering if there's something I'm missing in the install/remove procedure. I don't mind pulling the gas tank, removing the cross-brace, removing the filter box, and unbolting & shifting back the airbox. That takes all of 10 minutes, now. But I still end up sweaty, bruised and bleeding after tilting, twisting, yanking, prying, and shoving to get the carb bank in or out - and I can't help but think that's just bad for something. Oh - all the rubber boots are reasonably pliable - not new by any means, but not stiff as boards, either.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Nick
 
it's funny - that is exactly what I was doing just before I read this post. It is a bitch to get the bank of carbs on the intake boots.

It would help a lot if there was some kind of lube you could spray on the carb mouths before you slid them onto the boots. I just don't know what you could use that wouldn't be corrosive to the rubber. Anyone?

Thanks,
Ace.
 
Try using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the boots when you go to take them out. The rubber gets stiff after awhile. The heat softens them up. You can also wamr the engine up before you remove teh carb bank. It'll have teh same effect.

When you go to put them back in a little oil or silicon inside the boots helps as well as warming them up. It does take a bit of elbow grease in any case.
 
Does anyone know of a way to remove (and re-install) the carbs on a '82 1100EZ (or similar, stock airbox/filter setup) without it becoming a full-on, balls-out, grudge-match wrestle to the death?
Click to expand...

No. :) :) It is a b%tch, isn't it?

Make sure the boots are as soft as possible. As noted, a hair dryer will help out there. Try using silicone spray or a swipe of white lithium grease inside the intake manifolds to smooth things a bit. I switched to pods a season earlier than planned just because of the effort to remove the carbs the first time. I was worried about breaking/bending/tearing something when getting it back together. With pods I can pull the carbs in 5 minutes, with no swearing at all and that is a beautiful thing...


Mark
 
I went out and got some silicone spray lube. sprayed the inside bottom of the boots and the outside top of the carbs. The carbs were on in 5 seconds. Great stuff!

Thanks all.

Ace.
 
I USE A PROPANE TORCH FROM A DISTANCE TO GIVE A LITTLE HEAT TO THE INTAKE BOOTS, MAKE SURE YOU DONT BURN THE BOOTS AND SET THEM ON FIRE :)
 
I wouldnt put anything petroleum based on rubber. silicone would be a much better option. petroleum based chemicals will attack most rubber parts.

I straddle the bike to install the carbs, it seems to offer the best leverage and point of view for the job.
 
Carb Wrestling! Now that would be a good title for a Reality TV show. I personally use the blood from my knuckles to lubricate the boots :evil:
 
Thanks all for the tips so far -- lubing the boots w/ silicone seems like it has potential. I can't warm up the engine right now -- if it started I wouldn't need to remove the buggers in the 1st place ;) -- but the generally sweltering weather in DC these days keeps even a moderate breeze feel like standing in front of a hair dryer.

Keep those ideas coming... anyone found any preferred angle of tilting them (forward end down seems to help a bit, and keep the throttle from getting snagged) or decide if left- or right-side insertion/removal matters?

Nick
 
I believe that for your engine setup, removing the forward boots first is the way to go (between the carbs and motor). In fact, I think you just have to remove 2 of them (the right ones seem to stick in my mind). You loosen them, twist them, push the carbs down and then pull them off one at a time.
 
Taking the bank of carbs off should be easy - just tilt them up and down with some pulling pressure from one side. Putting them back used to be a 20 minute wrestling match for me, but I now have it down to about 2 minutes !

Heres how I do it on my 850 :

First, ALWAYS connect up the throttle and choke cables before fitting the carbs as they are virtually impossible to do once the carbs are in place.

Take a cupful of hot water (not boiling hot though).
With the carbs held over the mouths of the rubber boots (to stop any water entering the engine), pour a little over each boot (start with just a few drops on each). The carbs should pop easily into place.
If not, repeat using a little more water on each boot.

It works for me !!
 
I just put an 850L back together. I used a silicone based spray lube in the intake boot. Put your cables on first. Get astride the the bike and apply even steady pressure on the carbs, rock up and down a bit and they'll slip right in.. :)
 
I set the bottom edge of the carb on the bottom edge of the boots, apply down and forward pressure, and rock em around a bit (while astride the bike) with the boots lightly lubed (honestly I use a tiny amount of spit :) )

I cant remember the last time I spent more than a minute or two for the whole process . Ive never warmed the boots on any bike, its just a matter of getting the right leverage. the 850 has a ton of room compared to some other bikes Ive had. the old hard ones went together about the same as brand new ones.

hooking the throttle up ahead of time is indeed the best way, although I leave the choke for after.
 
I must be lucky cause I can get my carbs on and off with no problems and no silicone spray. No my boots arn't knew they are the originals. I've never had a problem even the first time I took them off.
 
moto_dan said:
Carb Wrestling! Now that would be a good title for a Reality TV show. I personally use the blood from my knuckles to lubricate the boots :evil:
Click to expand...


You are AlwaYS THERE AND READY TO HELP dAN.
:lol:
 
I do the same things as NickNoo does, except I do not use water, I use what the aviation industry uses--petrolatum. (Vasoline). I have never spent more than a minute getting the carbs on the boots. I do the same for the airbox. Never a problem there, either.
 
I just got done wrestling some carbs in with the stock air box and spraying some 3in1 Lube worked fine and slid right on.
 
I got my carbs back on with a tiny bit of silicon spray and one of those winch straps that you buy at walmart for 6 bucks. Wrap the strap around the front of the engine and start clicking away....They go on like magic. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top