Case guard/engine mount horror!!

[chuckycheese]

I'm getting ready to put in the new stator on my '80 GS750L and, upon inspection, was horrified to see that I might have to remove the case guard...which would mean removing one or 2 engine mounting bolts. If the guard has to come off (and I really hope it doesn't), I would have to remove the long bolt on top (because it was placed from the same side). Also, the mounting bolt on the bottom would have to be removed, as well.

What am I up against? I realize I will probably have to put a jack under the engine but any tips would be very much appreciated. How much clearance will I need in order to remove the stator cover? I'm hoping I will only need to loosen the nut on the long (top) bolt and slide the case guard back...does this seem likely? Any help is welcomed!![-o<

 

[lord1234]

do you have a service manual of some sort? clymers? Haynes? Factory service manual? If not get one...

 

[jimcor]

My case guard must be removed to get enough room to pull the engine side cover. Yes, it is a royal pita on mine because thru the years the guards have been tweaked this way and that first by the PO and then with a couple of parking lot tipovers. Requires a bit of leverage from a prybar to line them up for installation.

 

[chuckycheese]

Yes

Yes

Lordy, yes, I have the manuals (Clymer's and the factory manual) but that doesn't, in any way, address the problem because these bikes didn't come with crash bars.

What I really need is advice from someone with a similar model that's been through the same gig. I don't know which bike you have, Jimcor, but I remain hopeful maybe I can get the left sidecover off without totally removing the crash bar. I'm frightened at the prospect of having my engine on a jack...I've never been so bold!!:-s

The big question is, at this point...how much clearance for the sidecover do I need?????

P.S. Actually, Jim, I do know what you have...I just don't know how it compares!

 

[Jimf]

I just did this on my gs-1100g. I had to take the guard completey off.
It looked harder than it was. I did not hve to use anything to support the engine as the rear mounts will hold it in place. Your only problem might be if your guards are warped and need to be "adjusted" going back on. It's an easy job once you have done one.
Jim

 

[jimcor]

My engine is the 550 8 valve.

I'm not familiar with the engine mount configuration on your 750, but I wouldn't think the removal of the two mounting bolts would be that much of a problem. To support the engine just use a scissors jack with a piece of board, or a hunk of old tire, at the contact area. Don't try to jack it up, just use the jack to gently support it.

 

[crag antler]

I pulled the case guards off of my 83 GS1100E while I was doing my fairing install.
This involved the long bolt and the lower engine mount bolts.
Not too much of a hassle and I didn't have to jack up the motor.
The rear mount did a fine job of holding the engine in the right spot.

 

[Jethro]

As Doug said, I agree that I don't think you will have a problem with the engine. I don't have case gaurds, but I sure have pulled the motor on more than a few GS's and they stay pretty well in place with the rear mounts. Putting a block or something under the engine sure won't hurt, but I doubt it is gonna be a problem.

One thing I have learned over the years of working on these bikes is that there is very little to be scared of doing.

Good luck Chucky!!

 

[chuckycheese]

Thanks

Thanks

Thank you guys, so much! You've made me feel a whole lot better.\\/ I had visions of pulling that long bolt and watching my beautiful GS fall apart.8-[ I do think I'll use the jack and will follow your recommendations.:-D

 

[MikeG]

I'm in the process of putting case savers on my 750 and am having a bear of a time getting the little oblong washers that the lower engine bolts screw into lined up. Please tell me I won't have to pull my headers!

Any tips?

 

[twr1776]

Mike, I did mine on the L model and it was a PITA but I do not think you would have to pull the pipes. The one on the gearshift side was the worst. I ended up using some needle nose vice grips and bad language. As I recall the pointed end went up to lock against the inside of the cavity.

 

[MikeG]

I've got the gearshift side one in and am nursing a scrape on the back of my left hand. I used a little magnet on a metal rod I had to hold it in place. That wasn't too bad.

The brake side one looks bad. There are wires going across where the nut plate goes and hell if I can figure out how to get anything in there to hold it up against the hole while I try to thread the nut in...

Time to break out the sticks and tape and other pointy things to try and pry it into place. As crazy as it sounds, I know I will be happy that I managed to field expedient it into place when it's done.

After reading Bwringers' tales of header bolt removal woes I will do everything in my power to NOT pull them.

 

[81ZUKI75]

Putting Case Guards On...

Putting Case Guards On...

Just took the guards off of a new-to-me '82 750T so they could be cleaned and pull the highway pegs off. I did exactly what you describe to get the bolt threaded.... taped the nut to a long flat blade screwdriver and applied a lot of bad language. I'm about to put them back on, and dreading it.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. chuckycheese,

I have to take at least one of my case guards off every time I adjust my valves or replace my stator. Normally I can just take off the nuts but leave the long bolt in place. The threads on one particular engine mount bolt are getting pretty beat up. I'm thinking of ordering a new one. But I picked up a long bolt at the hardware store (not threaded on both ends) that will work. If I put the head of the bolt on the stator side (that cover I don't remove nearly as often), then I can just remove the nut on the right side and take off the case guard on that side when I adjust my valves (to spin the crank after removing the ignition cover). If I have to replace my stator again (knock on wood), I'll have to remove the entire bolt to remove the case guard on that side. But it's no biggie. The engine doesn't move when I remove that mount bolt.

As for the lower oblong (egg shaped?) nut, I have difficulty every time I reinstall those but there's no need to pull the pipes off. Sometimes they line up just right the first time and sometimes it takes me several tries to get them started. I haven't figured out a trick for them yet. I just use my fingers, slide the bolt in until it's just peeking out the other side and try to feel where the nut fits over it, then try to get the thread started.

Oh the joys of owning a 29 year old motorcycle.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[MikeG]

Electrical tape and a hacksaw blade worked wonders for the second one. The trick I found was to get the nut plate pressed against the bore hole and use your fingers to work the bolt against it. That way you can feel when it seats against the nut and start turning. Get it a couple threads in and hit it with the socket.

I really like the way they look, now to find the rear guards.

 

[Guest]

I'm in the process of putting case savers on my 750 and am having a bear of a time getting the little oblong washers that the lower engine bolts screw into lined up. Please tell me I won't have to pull my headers!

Any tips?

Put a bolt finder magnet on the end of the weird nut and push it into the hole and pinch it in there with the bolt. Fiddle around with it until you get the threads to line up.