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Guest
Guest
Getting ready to strip what is left of the old gray/silver paintfrom the engine of my 82 GS750.
Any recommendations for an off the shelf product?
Any recommendations for an off the shelf product?
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S
sharpy
Guest
Heaps of threads regarding such things..... http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Engine-painting-advice&highlight=engine+paint. Personally i use/used VHT Universal Aluminium. Lower case isnt painted in standard form. Pretty sure im correct as GS1000 are like that
Yes the uppers are. I paint the bottoms too just for the cleaner looking effect. As youll see in the following pics of the paint stripper at work.
To the original poster..
I make covers out of butter tub lids and out them behind the carb holders ( intake manifolds ) and use corks in the exhaust ports to keep crap from getting in the engines. Then i degrease and power wash them. Next is the paint stripper and onother power washing..spot treat areas after the first stripping to get it all off. Blow dry with air hose as best as I can and then let dry over night. Ready for paint the next day. I too use the VHT High Temp Universal Aluminum..(part # SP-127)
Following are some stripping pics and the finished product with the VHT paint.
To cure the paint, let it gas out at least 48 hrs. Upon start up ..start the bike and get it just warm enough that your hand is ALMOST but not quite to the point you cant keep it on the jugs and then let it cool down ( good fan helps this out ).
Next start the bike and go about a 10 minute ride at normal street or highway conditions and let it cool again. Then ride it again about 20 minutes and let cool. The object is to gradually step up the heat cure exposure times to bake the paint but not overheat it and make it bubble up.
And of the engine painted with the Universal Aluminum paint..
To the original poster..
I make covers out of butter tub lids and out them behind the carb holders ( intake manifolds ) and use corks in the exhaust ports to keep crap from getting in the engines. Then i degrease and power wash them. Next is the paint stripper and onother power washing..spot treat areas after the first stripping to get it all off. Blow dry with air hose as best as I can and then let dry over night. Ready for paint the next day. I too use the VHT High Temp Universal Aluminum..(part # SP-127)
Following are some stripping pics and the finished product with the VHT paint.
To cure the paint, let it gas out at least 48 hrs. Upon start up ..start the bike and get it just warm enough that your hand is ALMOST but not quite to the point you cant keep it on the jugs and then let it cool down ( good fan helps this out ).
Next start the bike and go about a 10 minute ride at normal street or highway conditions and let it cool again. Then ride it again about 20 minutes and let cool. The object is to gradually step up the heat cure exposure times to bake the paint but not overheat it and make it bubble up.
And of the engine painted with the Universal Aluminum paint..
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Chuck,
your tips are some of the most practical here, thank you for that.
I recently stripped/blasted my 850 and got it back in the frame (with minimal scratching) and wasn't sure the best way to cure it gradually based on experience. Now I know!
Some pics of mine using the SP-127, OP, get your stainless steel Allen bolt kits from Z1 while you're at it if you haven't already:
your tips are some of the most practical here, thank you for that.
I recently stripped/blasted my 850 and got it back in the frame (with minimal scratching) and wasn't sure the best way to cure it gradually based on experience. Now I know!
Some pics of mine using the SP-127, OP, get your stainless steel Allen bolt kits from Z1 while you're at it if you haven't already:
G
Guest
Guest
The pictures look fantastic.
I wasn't sure if the barrel was painted or not, but the case is.
The case paint is bubbling, peeling and chipping off, due to years of neglect.
I want to return the engine to a factory look.
Power washing isn't an option right now because of the California drought and the amount of water allowed each home.
But the barrel isn't bad just the case will need to be stripped and painted.
Based on the prior posts on this subject, I've ordered a can of VHT and Dupli-color paint and will use the nest match.
I wasn't sure if the barrel was painted or not, but the case is.
The case paint is bubbling, peeling and chipping off, due to years of neglect.
I want to return the engine to a factory look.
Power washing isn't an option right now because of the California drought and the amount of water allowed each home.
But the barrel isn't bad just the case will need to be stripped and painted.
Based on the prior posts on this subject, I've ordered a can of VHT and Dupli-color paint and will use the nest match.
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Put the engine on a small trailer and take it to quarter car wash...this I have done before i got a power washer. They cant stop you from feeding the machine a few rounds!!!!
Chuck - what power washer do you have or recommend?
I have a gas powered Delta 2200 PSI with a Honda engine. I had one of those electric ones from Sams Club years ago and it was plenty for washing a bike without worry of peeling paint or decals...Depends really on what you plan on using it for. More industrial type cleaning I would get a bigger than 2200 PSI.
Mine plenty adequate for bikes and cars
Mine plenty adequate for bikes and cars
Thanks, I'm leaning towards an electric one just for the cars and bikes at the house. The Delta one sounds nice - Honda's small engines are awesome.
Sponge bath after rinsing the heavy stuff off, then a good rinse after some suds....sparkly!!!!!
For the case halves. http://www.eastwood.com/engine-paint-kit-26971.html
Cylinders and barrels. SP127
Cylinders and barrels. SP127
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Guest
Guest
Thanks everyone for the advice and the great pictures.
I purchased a can of VHT and Dupli-color and painted some scrap metal.
I then compared my samples against the inside of the starter cover.
The result was that Dupli-color ended up as the best overall match.
I purchased a can of VHT and Dupli-color and painted some scrap metal.
I then compared my samples against the inside of the starter cover.
The result was that Dupli-color ended up as the best overall match.
Good to know that the Dupli-color is the better match. Curious how it holds up to the elements and temperature over time.
I'm told that the VHT, when properly cured, holds up quite well and I bet the Eastwood is even better - I have no experience with the Dupli?color. Time will tell for both of us...
Color matching is one thing, but if we have to touch up or repaint every few years as opposed to the ~20 to 30 years the factory paint Suzuki used withstood, then the color match to me isn't as important. I wish we could get a hold of the paint they used. Please report back with your findings over time, if you will.
I'm told that the VHT, when properly cured, holds up quite well and I bet the Eastwood is even better - I have no experience with the Dupli?color. Time will tell for both of us...
Color matching is one thing, but if we have to touch up or repaint every few years as opposed to the ~20 to 30 years the factory paint Suzuki used withstood, then the color match to me isn't as important. I wish we could get a hold of the paint they used. Please report back with your findings over time, if you will.
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sharpy
Guest
had a quick look. but cant find who recommended the dupi-colour. When i painted mine with vht i didnt touch the clean tappet cover and to me there was no difference. Have fun either way.