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CDI/Rectifier/Seat

  • Thread starter Thread starter fvfdf_20
  • Start date Start date
F

fvfdf_20

Guest
I am about to purchase a 82 GS and i believe it is a 650 but not 100% sure. I was told the bike will run but needs a Rectifier or CDI box. I know it's the little black box on the right side below the seat. I was wondering where I can get one of these at and also where can i get a seat thats no so....FLAT. any help is greatly appreciated
 
Welcome to the forum, but get ready for a bigger welcome from BassCliff!!

Your question will be answered shortly, you'll see.

Hey, I beat you to the punch, Cliff!!
Gotta stop loitering on the forum street corners......
 
if its a regulator/rectifier unit youmay as well do an upgrade - "duenauge" here sells used honda units which are superior to suzuki oem
cdi is quite expensive new but a used one should do, from the bike wreckers, ebay
i would confirm what's wrong with the parts before investing any money
once you have the bike we can run you through the tests you need to do to find out whats at fault
 
Ok im going to get it next weekend and then i will know a little more about it also. Another thing anyone know where or if they have an after market seat thats not so flat??
 
No aftermarket seats available. You can pull the cover off and shave down the foam though. Seems a shame though since the regular GS seats are some of the most comfortable ever built.
 
Yeah but the seat is ugly as sin. but if there is not any other seats that will fit it i will deal with it cause i would just mess the seat up.
 
You may learn to love the seat. It's actually very popular. Considered one of the most comfortable bike seats ever made.
 
anyone know of a list of interchangeable parts for this bike??
 
anyone know of a list of interchangeable parts for this bike??

One option... go to alphasports website (link in the BassCliff Welcome). They list by OEM part number (unlike most places). Look up the number in question for your bike then look it up for other years, other models, and see if it's the same. It's the hard way, but if nobody has anything more specific...
 
Welcome !! If it runs the CDI (wrong name) IT IS an Electronic ignition is probably OK. if bad you need to upgrade to a Dyna Ign. It is Common for the reg/rect to be bad with the accompany charging problems. GREAT
article to guide you thru the repair in the forum Garage section
 
where do you find the upgrade electronic charging kits for the 1100G minus the stator and rectifier
 
Hee Haw Howdy!

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. fvfdf_20,

I've run across a database program, sells for about $25, that supposedly cross-references compatible parts, but I can't find the guy's website bookmark. Maybe it's on my computer at home. For now, here is your mega-welcome!
icon7.gif


Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
icon_biggrin.gif


Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the
carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus,
Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************

Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
http://www.bikepics.com

Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm


Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

walmart_greeter2.jpg
 
I just got a few Honda RRs in, if you need one or want to prevent RR failure in the future send me a PM. Best 40 bucks you'll spend.
 
well i got the bike yesterday. It's an 82 GS650G. so far i have found that the starter is bad but most of the other electronics are in good working order, i.e. head light, blinkers, and horn. I'm going to a junkyard today to check on getting a starter because i don't want to spend alot on it because I'm not 100% sure that it runs. I do have a question concerning the carbs though. Once they are removed and cleaned they have to be sync'd right? I will be posting pictures of the bike as soon as I can . Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Yes, sync the carbs.

GS bikes are killer tough so no doubt it will run assuming it hasn't been abused too bad. I trust you know about the carb rebuild series on the GSR homepage. Also, get o-rings for the carbs from cycleorings.com - and don't forget the intake pipe "boot" o-rings.

In case you don't know, the clutch needs to be pulled in to engage the starter. Positive battery cable goes to starter solenoid - which sometimes goes bad as well. You can short out the connection on the solenoid to see if the starter motor turns over.

Good luck.
 
I would connect a good battery right to that starter to be sure it is bad, these bikes are not famous for starter failures but the solenoid can loose it's ground connection causing it not to click. Also the kill switch and clutch safety switch are culprits sometimes.

Put 12 volts right to the yellow and green wire on the solenoid and see if she cranks. A boneyard is going to want big bucks for a starter and charge you sales tax plus a removal fee. Get one from ebay if you're sure it's bad after testing.
 
Hee Haw Howdy!

Hee Haw Howdy!

Still looking for that cross-referencing program. BBL!
 
yeah i took the starter out and hooked it straight to a 12 volt and nothing at all. yes i have read about the carb series but have never before taken a carb apart and kinda worried about doing that. also the clutch cable is broken but i can pull the lever on the engine and it does not return to its original position. I'm not sure what may be causing it but im going to pull the side cover off today and check it out. Also there is an item under the carbs with a spring loaded twist knob. I have no idea what this is. Anyone else know?
 
The idle adjuster is kinda hard to see. I'll bet he's asking about the cam chain tensioner.
DO NOT MESS WITH IT.

.
 
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