• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Chain clicking

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike
  • Start date Start date
M

Mike

Guest
I was working on putting the back end all back together tonight when I noticed that the chain was clicking when it was going around the rear sprocket. Also noticed that the tension would change as it went around.

Now I realize that normally, all signs point to new chain/sprockets BUT before I took everything apart, it seemed to be just fine. No noise, no binding.

Please tell me I just didn't get everything back together correctly and I don't have to go drop MORE money.
 
Check your rear axle alignment and dont go by the marks.
this can also be exacerbated by the acrrier not being fully seated in the cush rubbers.

I'm going to take the chain off tonight and give it a good scrubbing and greasing and redo the back end in one last attempt before dropping $150 to fix it.
 
I found this out last year when I was adjusting the chain on my GSXR but you need to tighten the chain in the "Tight spot". I don't know if this is given knowledge when tightening chains or not. Sorry if it is.
 
IIRC, when you spin the rear wheel around and check for chain tightness every few 6-8 inches of chain travel you will come upon a point when the chain will tighten up some. I found this to be a noticeable difference.

Problem I had was when I started out on the bike for the first ride of the day with the chain "cold" it would run/sound fine. But after 15-20-30 mins of riding I would hear and almost feel like the there was a slight "vibration" coming from the chain, front, rear sprocket area. I was told about this "tight spot" and after adjusting the tension in this spot the sound/vibration went away. It's been good since.

my 2 cents.
 
Hmmm... I didn't think there was supposed to be a "tight spot".

$150? I just replaced my chain/sprockets for $107; and that was with an x-ring chain. Check eBay and see if you can find a NEW rear sprocket, as that seems to be where one can save some scratch. Like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rear...6844792QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

From Z1: $90 for the chain, $12 for the front sprocket, $30.46 for the rear, plus about $15 in shipping

From Cycle Recycle: $110 for the chain, $15 for the front, $33 for the rear, no shipping and I can have it right away

With that ebay one, it's $25 with shipping and who knows when it'll come in.
 
Plus, I don't mind paying a little bit more to support Cycle Recycle. Nothing exorbitant, but $10-$20, IMO is worth it.
 
Yeah, 20% or so is where I usually draw my "buy local" line. I love to support the local folks, but there aren't very many; and if they can't even come close...

Since CRC2 is local to you you have the time factor as well. If I want to buy anything locally I'm pretty much waiting anyway so THEY can get it shipped.
 
IIRC, when you spin the rear wheel around and check for chain tightness every few 6-8 inches of chain travel you will come upon a point when the chain will tighten up some. I found this to be a noticeable difference.

Problem I had was when I started out on the bike for the first ride of the day with the chain "cold" it would run/sound fine. But after 15-20-30 mins of riding I would hear and almost feel like the there was a slight "vibration" coming from the chain, front, rear sprocket area. I was told about this "tight spot" and after adjusting the tension in this spot the sound/vibration went away. It's been good since.

my 2 cents.

I'm curious if there's any other input on this, because it doesn't seem right, but I'm still new at bikes.
 
Yeah, 20% or so is where I usually draw my "buy local" line. I love to support the local folks, but there aren't very many; and if they can't even come close...

Since CRC2 is local to you you have the time factor as well. If I want to buy anything locally I'm pretty much waiting anyway so THEY can get it shipped.

The main guy at CRC2 is pretty much a walking encyclopedia of knowledge.
 
The main guy at CRC2 is pretty much a walking encyclopedia of knowledge.

Yeah, he is. If you ever go down there, be prepared to wait, it's usually packed with people looking for parts. He's kinda like the soup nazi from Seinfield......It took a few trips down there for me to figure out how to talk to him without ****ing him off.

Your chain should rotate smoothly with no tight spots....If you look very closely at the old sprockets and chain, you can see where it has been wearing. When I converted my chain to a 530 chain, I got it from Z1. CALL them and talk to Jeff, he's a member here and is very knowledgable. It may cost a few dollars more, but, when you get your chain and sprockets it's going to be right. :)
 
It took a few trips down there for me to figure out how to talk to him without ****ing him off.

Ha, I've noticed that in overhearing his conversations with other people. I don't think it's so much that he's a jerk, just that he has zero desire to waste time and wants to get people in and out of there as quick as possible.
 
Ha, I've noticed that in overhearing his conversations with other people. I don't think it's so much that he's a jerk, just that he has zero desire to waste time and wants to get people in and out of there as quick as possible.

Yep, I think you're right. I have been in there before when it's just him and I and he's actually quite a nice guy.....and a wealth of knowledge. :)
 
IIRC, when you spin the rear wheel around and check for chain tightness every few 6-8 inches of chain travel you will come upon a point when the chain will tighten up some. I found this to be a noticeable difference.

When they get to this point they should be replaced. As with tires, pushing your luck is quite dangerous.
 
Scrubbed the chain with a wire brush and WD40 and greased it up. It's definitely better, it's not clicking, but it's still tighter in some spots than others. Since I can't get a new chain until Saturday at the earliest, I figure I might as well keep trying on this one.

Anything else I can do or soak it in overnight to loosen it up at all?
 
check the teeth on your sprocket, you may have put it on the worn side. if the chain has a master link you might double check that its worn side in, normally it dont make a difference but ocasionally it does with an old chain. (edit) at least it did on my honda shadow, anyways new is better.

also the chain should be warm, 10 min ride warm, when it is lubed
 
Last edited:
check the teeth on your sprocket, you may have put it on the worn side. if the chain has a master link you might double check that its worn side in, normally it dont make a difference but ocasionally it does with an old chain.

I never took it completely off for it to get flipped around like that
 
Back
Top