Chain just broke

[GSXR7ED]

Chain Driven

Chain Driven

That would depend on where it was when it was NEW.

It has been over 35 years since I have had the "pleasure" of riding a chain-driven bike and had to deal with chain maintenance, so I don't know how much they "stretch" during their life. Besides, everyone is saying how much better chains are nowadays and how little maintenance they really need, so whatever I remember about it has probably changed.

.

It's really not that much of a hassle to maintain a chain driven bike. As a matter of fact, I learned quite a bit about the importance of certain characteristics to avoid...thanks to MrBill. Not everyone gets an opportunity to meet a GS owner/mentor like I have--his teaching method for me is great. My bike and me are benefiting from such instances as this weekend.




Ed

 

[Guest]

Yeah ask Ed what I did once I got his old chain off. I about freaked! I got it off and said holy **** this thing is totally shot. I could literally make a U shape against the links. Weird thing is, I checked his sprockets and they didn't seem to have that much wear on them. No cups or sharp ends. So I slapped (of course cleaned and relubed) my old 630 (bout 3K miles on it) on his bike. This is temporary fix anyways once we get the nut broke loose off the front sprocket.

Ed was amazed in the difference in the chain when he test rode it.

As far as the clip master link is concerned, I had nothing but on my bike for the last 30 years. Never had one come off. When they are installed right and little dab of silicone spread over the top of the link for a bit of a safety feature they are good to go. I always carry a spare as well.

 

[tkent02]

When they are installed right and little dab of silicone spread over the top of the link for a bit of a safety feature they are good to go. I always carry a spare as well.

A bit of safety wire holding the clip on can't hurt, a blob of red RTV so it's easy to find the master to glance at the clip before a ride. Probably serious overkill, I haven't had one come off in decades, just hasn't happened since I quit running crappy chains on old sprockets. It just isn't a problem, but the two minutes spent to safety it seems easy enough.

For the ?ber paranoid, run an endless chain. It's probably time to grease the swingarm bearings anyway.

 

[Guest]

A bit of safety wire holding the clip on can't hurt, a blob of red RTV so it's easy to find the master to glance at the clip before a ride. Probably serious overkill, I haven't had one come off in decades, just hasn't happened since I quit running crappy chains on old sprockets. It just isn't a problem, but the two minutes spent to safety it seems easy enough.

For the ?ber paranoid, run an endless chain. It's probably time to grease the swingarm bearings anyway.

Yup, no cutting corners with chains. I've seen the damage one can do when it lets go even at 70mph.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

Inall my riding years I have never broke a 630 chain, i have however broke 530's and 525's a few 520's.All I can say is that 630 must have been pretty trashed and had to be noisey. And I believe that the chain is in the replace zone of your marks about# 7. They also have a little replace sticker on the side of the adjuster itself

Modern 530s are just as strong as the old dinosaur 630s. Possibly stronger.

 

[tkent02]

They are all plenty strong enough until they are completely worn out. Its not about strength. It's about maintenance. Replace when needed.

 

[Griffin]

A quality sealed chain (o-ring, x-ring, whatever-ring) will essentially need one adjustment during its whole life, around the 500 mile or so mark (and that will be extremely minimal, if anything). It is not from the chain "stretching", it is from the chain loosening up a bit from its storage time in the box, and your inability to properly pull it tight when first installed.

After that, if you clean it regularly and use a water displacing chemical (WD-40 is great) on it after cleaning, it will give you at least 20,000 miles of adjustment free, reliable service.

If you have to adjust it after the initial break in period, there is something wrong. Either it is prematurely wearing for some reason, or your rear axle isn't staying in place (in which case, the chain will tend to get tighter, not looser).

I've never lost a clip type master link in thirty years and tens of thousands of miles of riding. Ever. I'm convinced the reason people lose them is because they aren't installed properly.

Of course, that's impossible to prove or disprove after the fact.

 

[Guest]

Modern 530s are just as strong as the old dinosaur 630s. Possibly stronger.

Oh I know the modern 530's are just as strong, I was just stating that I had never seen a 630 break. I have , and have seen the others break. I have seen alot of worn out high performance No maintenance 630 chains. Just never a BROKEN one.

 

[Rob S.]

Inall my riding years I have never broke a 630 chain, i have however broke 530's and 525's a few 520's.All I can say is that 630 must have been pretty trashed and had to be noisey. And I believe that the chain is in the replace zone of your marks about# 7. They also have a little replace sticker on the side of the adjuster itself

No stickers on my adjusters. It was finally, correctly explained to me (by Frank of Powerhouse Motorcycles) why modern 530's are stronger than 630's. Since the links are smaller, there are more of them for a given length, more metal. Makes sense?

He also said my "ass-dyno" would not notice a difference (on a bike like my stock 1100EZ) by converting to 530.

 

[Nessism]

630 is stronger than 530. The links are larger and thicker. More metal, heavier too. 630 was used when GS's were new because back then, 530's were margional. Now a days, even smaller chains are more than strong enough so there is no reason to use 630, which is heavier.

 

[Guest]

So, does that mean you're a convert now Rob?

 

[Rob S.]

So, does that mean you're a convert now Rob?

I never trusted converts - you don't follow your first religion, why would you follow your next?

My Suzi was born a 630, she'll stay a 630.

Probably

Maybe.

 

[Rob S.]

Time to start shopping. Are there different materials for sprockets? Better brands?

What's the best? Not best price, best sprockets (and chain)?

 

[koolaid_kid]

I suggest calling Z1Enterprises and ordering from them.

 

[Guest]

I suggest calling Z1Enterprises and ordering from them.

Where I got my conversion, Jeff and his crew are very helpful.

 

[Guest]

That 1100e isn't going to break a modern 530 chain without some serious work done to it. New modern 1000's come stock with 525's and 530's and 150 + hp no fear convert and save your self some money

 

[posplayr]

Time to start shopping. Are there different materials for sprockets? Better brands?

What's the best? Not best price, best sprockets (and chain)?

Call your local Suzuki dealer for oem parts he will enjoy your business.

They might even install it for you.

 

[Agemax]

That 1100e isn't going to break a modern 530 chain without some serious work done to it. New modern 1000's come stock with 525's and 530's and 150 + hp no fear convert and save your self some money

the factory MOTO GP bikes, (250BHP+) only use a 520 chain.

 

[tkent02]

Thanks Ed for posting this. One BIG Difference that this correct illustration mentions re Chain Slack is: SAG. SAG as opposed to slack. Too many folks have set chain tightness so that total deflection up and down is 1.2 inches. Too tight by half. Correct total deflection would be twice that or 2.4 inches. Measurements with bike on center stand. Factory length shocks etc.

I destroyed factory chain way back in 1984 for that very reason. Toast in 5,000 miles. Thought I was doing it right. Nope.

I have confirmed too that with the 2 to 2.4 inches of total chain movement, there is easily a half inch of sag with the swing arm compressed so that the drive sprocket, the swing arm pivot and the rear axel are in a straight line.

This is what I was getting at, only you said it a lot better. I didn't see the diagram well enough to see it's only showing distance from center, not the total up and down travel. An inch total up and down is simply not enough. More than 2.4" is OK, but less than 1.6" total will break chains as the swingarm goes up and down.

 

[jbthomp]

More than 2.4" is OK, but less than 1.6" total will break chains as the swingarm goes up and down.

Well then my chain is way too tight. I guess i need to adjust that out more. I wonder why everyone says an inch total movement is ok? Well i guess i need to get on that.