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chain loose then tight

  • Thread starter Thread starter Big Red
  • Start date Start date
B

Big Red

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Ok Boys and Girls.

I have been doing research on this out my you know what.

come to the conclusion new new chain and sprockets...

i am new to all this stuff still and have never done it before. what is my best bet. find the parts online order them and do it myself with your help(if not to hard) or get some quotes from local shops to make sur eit is done right.

I am in the Ottawa valley, it seems so bad i will not ride until it is done.

funds are tight to cheaper is better but don<t want to sacrifice safety or quality at the same time.

now the major question?? what do i need to get to replace the chain and sprockets on my 1980 GS550L. i figured to go with a O-Ring chain (middle cost between x-ring and basic) i have een seeing that 530 chain 110 might be the chain i need but would lie some of your expert opinions. with being in Canada i can't order form Z1 or place in the states like that without extra shipping/Duty charges.

PLEASE HELP.

Thank in advance. finally have the nice weather and can't ride until this is fixed.
 
The 80 550L model comes with a 530 chain.
That will make it a bit cheaper and no need for a conversion.
Is one of the areas where money is well spent.
 
If I were you I would get an o ring chain. The basic chains are ancient design and poor value for money in my opinion. A good o ring will keep you going for ages.a
 
Order from Pete's Superbike, he is in your neck of the woods - http://www.petes-superbike.com/index.php

I just ordered a set of tires and a RK chain, my neighbour ordered a set of tires and a DID chain, shipped to us in like 3 days

and no matter what chain you get, order an extra rivet or clip link, good to have a spare in case you or the shop mess up the first one, I think all the chains come with one on the box.

.
 
To answer your question, you'll need a new chain, front and rear sprockets and some basic tools. Replacing the chain is not hard to do. Trust in the people on this site to be able to guide you through it.
 
I just a price from a local shop $225 plus tax for oring chains and sprockets installed???
 
I just a price from a local shop $225 plus tax for oring chains and sprockets installed???

Parts and labor?

Sounds very reasonable to me. Have they been in business long? Will they stand behind their work?

Get the old parts and the packaging/paperwork from the new parts.
 
It's a chain. Some sprockets. Anyone can change a chain and sprockets.

And if you don't have a chain tool to put the rivet link back on, it will cost you a hundred bucks for the tool, sometimes it's cheaper and easier to just get it done by someone.....

Case in point, I bought a new chain, borrowed the tool, screwed up the install of the rivet link, marred the link, looks like crap, now I have to order a new link 10 bucks, have the old link removed and new one put on 20 bucks or at least a few beers, would have cost me less to just have had it done....now if it was a Clip on style link well then probably no problem......

See what I mean.....

:D

.
 
Great shop been doin it for 20 plus years. Uses great parts. Great thing about small towns.

They have worked on my bike before.
 
Great shop been doin it for 20 plus years. Uses great parts. Great thing about small towns.

Definitely. Once my obligations in the city are over, I plan on moving back to a small town. I dream about it every day.
 
Completely normal condition (chain loose, then tight), if not particularly desirable. What happens is that your sprockets wear a little be eccentrically (oval) and the chain gets tight when the ovals align away from each other and loose when they align towards each other. It is not your chain, it is your sprockets, but, of course, you need to replace chain and sprockets together.

The ratio of teeth for your rear to front sprockets should always be an fractional number that doesn't add to a whole number after some small number of cycles. This makes the chain "walk" around the teeth so the same links don't keep lining up with the same teeth on the sprockets, making the chain wear more evenly. Otherwise your chain really will get tight and loose spots (link to link distances).

For now, adjust your chain at what you think is the tight spot, then rotate the rear wheel to feel the tight spot(s) again and, if it's too tight, loosen the adjustment. This will make sure you don't over tighten, which will rapidly accelerate wear of both chain and sprockets. After you torque your axel nut and lock down the adjusters, find the loosest spot and see if your chain will slap on the swingarm pivot. If it hits the pivot, you *really* need to replace chain and sprockets *now*.

Invest in good chain and sprockets. RK chain is good. Sunstar sprockets are OEM quality. Have had bad results with some other sprockets. Don't go aluminum sprockets or you'll be replacing things that much sooner, despite what the advertisements say.
 
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She is at the shop today getting some new steel sprockets and a new O-ring chain on(not sure of the brand name yet) i got another price from another local shop (mainly do tires) they were $100 more for the same thing. So i do believe i am getting the best deal without having to do it myself.

note: i forgot to mention that when i got the bike it had not been rode in years and had some rust on the chain. cleaned and lubed was working but this season noticed that some rust color was come out of the chain unto the lube. so i believe the rust is bad in the chain which is also another reason to change it all out.

Some things i have no worries about doing myself but when it comes to the fact that if it is done completely wrong (f it up) and it can kill me, i will make sure it is done right. (at least until i know how to did it right)

thanks everyone for the input.

next up getting a few scratches and dents out of the tank and continuing to polish the engine.
 
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The ratio of teeth for your rear to front sprockets should always be an fractional number that doesn't add to a whole number after some small number of cycles. This makes the chain "walk" around the teeth so the same links don't keep lining up with the same teeth on the sprockets, making the chain wear more evenly. Otherwise your chain really will get tight and loose spots (link to link distances).

This is rarely if ever seen in print, but it is definitely true. If every other tooth is worn differently, the same teeth are hitting the same link every time.
 
Bike is back home and running better then ever. thanks folks for your advice and info.
 
I'm in Carleton Place so a bit out of town.

I used CycleMaster in Ashton. cyclemaster@xplornet.ca
This guy can do anything really well


there is also a tire specfic shop in Black's Corners. Blacks CornersTire <blackscornerstire@gmail.com>
This guy is awesome for tires. you set-up an appointment drive out he does them while you wait about 30-45 min and on the road again.

I would highly recommend both shops. Not sure if you are west end Ottawa.
 
No, I'm in aylmer right across the river. I do all of the work on my bike except things like tires.
 
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