Chain on a budget?

[Phaseman]

Time for a new chain. I've had some advice about converting to a 530 but I'm running out of cash.

Looks like the best prices are on D.I.D. or EK.

Any thoughts on which way to go for a 630? I believe it takes a 630 98 link and I'm seeing prices at $55 to $95

Also, do I need to remove the swing arm or will it come with a master link? Rear wheel is off for bearing replacement already.

 

[makenzie71]

You won't need to remove the swingarm for any of the work. A new chain will come with a masterlink.

As far as what to go for...go for what ever is absolutely the cheapest. I say this because you're speaking of just replacing a chain. If your chain is worn out, your sprockets are most certainly worn. Putting a new chain on worn sprockets will accelerate the wear on the chain exponentially. The best thing to do is ALWAYS replace the entire drive system...chain AND sprockets.

I'm having a hard time finding a roller style 630 chain...all seem to be ringed...about the cheapest I can find is $50. If you can find a roller style chain, they're usually around $20~25 for a DID.

 

[Guest]

I have 66000 kms on original rear sprocket, I flipped the rear sprocket over when i replaced the front one( it was worn enough to make crunchy noises ) well into my second chain....630 lasts a long time.

 

[82Shafty]

Parts n more for sprockets

630 o-ring

syn chain lube is still required... Just ask P_S on here.

You will need to borrow someone's tool to rivet a master link together. Forget the clip on ones.

 

[Sandy]

If you're replacing chain and sprockets I don't think there is much different if you want to convert to a 530. If you can just change the chain (not recommended with worn sprockets) then you'll just need the chain. The stock 630 chain is 96 kinks, not 98 as you mentioned in your post, you should double check check though. I did mine last year and it set me back just over $200 if I remember right.

 

[Flyboy]

376 000km and still going strong

Hey and with the state of the economy, you could probably pick one up, cheaper than buying a chain, no deposit down, intrest free for the first year, first payment only in 6 months time.

 

[makenzie71]

yeah but shaft drive = no room for modifications.

 

[sharpy]

376 000km and still going strong

Hey and with the state of the economy, you could probably pick one up, cheaper than buying a chain, no deposit down, intrest free for the first year, first payment only in 6 months time.

Dont you have to be really old to ride a shaft bike? LOL

 

[Baatfam]

You will need to borrow someone's tool to rivet a master link together. Forget the clip on ones.

Nothing wrong with clip style master links if you put it on correctly...that's all I've ever used..
Even on the dragbike,,,,

 

[chuckycheese]

Huh?

Huh?

I think your bike must be a 1980 model since I don't think there was a '79 model (at least not in the U.S.). Am I wrong about that??

 

[makenzie71]

Clip masterlinks here, as well...nothing other. I've yet to hear a valid argument against them barring idiocy; but, if you think about it, an idiot can screw anything up.

Nothing but roller chains, either, unless I get a free o or x ringer.

 

[Big T]

Post up a picture of your front and rear sprocket teeth, and we'll be able to tell you if they need to be replaced.

Is that "cheap" bike costing you a bit moore than you bargained for?

630 O ring believer here. Long lasting and very satisfying.

 

[Phaseman]

Chain Purchased!

Chain Purchased!

derwood - I have 66000 kms on original rear sprocket, I flipped the rear sprocket over when i replaced the front one( it was worn enough to make crunchy noises ) well into my second chain....630 lasts a long time.

Good idea, makes sense and sounds like it will save me instant wear on the new one. I'm gonna do it unless someone has a better reason that I shouldn't.

82Shafty - Parts n more for sprockets
630 o-ring
syn chain lube is still required... Just ask P_S on here.
You will need to borrow someone's tool to rivet a master link together. Forget the clip on ones.

Already bought the chain this morning before all these posts came in...
The old chain came off with no problem while removing the rear wheel.
It was stretched to the max and I'm wondering if since I am pulling the swing off to check and grease it if I can just have the chain joined together at the shop and install it before I reinstall the swing? Think it will be too tight to get over the rear sprocket?

Sandy - If you're replacing chain and sprockets I don't think there is much different if you want to convert to a 530. If you can just change the chain (not recommended with worn sprockets) then you'll just need the chain. The stock 630 chain is 96 kinks, not 98 as you mentioned in your post, you should double check check though. I did mine last year and it set me back just over $200 if I remember right.

You're right, 96 links. My bad.

Flyboy - 376 000km and still going strong
Hey and with the state of the economy, you could probably pick one up, cheaper than buying a chain, no deposit down, intrest free for the first year, first payment only in 6 months time.

Dang! One of the body shops I got a quote from to pull the dent in my tank offered to GIVE me the shaft...

sharpy -Dont you have to be really old to ride a shaft bike? LOL

Heh!

Baatfam - Nothing wrong with clip style master links if you put it on correctly...that's all I've ever used..
Even on the dragbike,,,,

The chain I bought requires the rivet type I guess.

chuckycheese - I think your bike must be a 1980 model since I don't think there was a '79 model (at least not in the U.S.). Am I wrong about that?

They made em'... Mine is a 1978 GS1000E.

makenzie71 - Clip masterlinks here, as well...nothing other. I've yet to hear a valid argument against them barring idiocy; but, if you think about it, an idiot can screw anything up.
Nothing but roller chains, either, unless I get a free o or x ringer.

Clip wouldn't bother me... Be easier I think.

Big T Post up a picture of your front and rear sprocket teeth, and we'll be able to tell you if they need to be replaced.

Is that "cheap" bike costing you a bit moore than you bargained for?

630 O ring believer here. Long lasting and very satisfying.

Still a bargain I think.

I'll try to get pics up this weekend, I think they are in pretty good shape. And I like derwoods' idea about flipping the rear sprocket.

My big trouble is WANTING to spend more than I know I should. I hate not going with the best, but with budget constraints I am trying to reign myself in to the mid range. For now anyways.

I just want to have her running well for the NW states run to Shasta!
You going to make that one BigT?

And by the way... I ended up going with:

D.I.D 630HK 96 link

• Heavy Duty Series has a higher tensile strength than the standard roller chain
• D.I.D. is the #1 chain manufacturer in the world
• Solid rollers
• Shot-peened parts
• High cylindrical and roundness accuracy
• Exacting tolerances provide low friction
• Pre-stretched
• Extended riveted bushing "Anti-Kink" design
• Special alloy steel
• Average tensile strength of 11,400 lbs.

$100.00 from a local shop I just found. Seems like a good price for it. Found em' on the web from 100.00 to 135.00, so I saved on the shipping.

 

[Big T]

That's a good deal. You'll find that the 630 chain will stretch a bit for the first 1000 miles, then barely move at all after that.

Have you posted in the Shasta rally page? You'd be a good resource there, what with being the "local" and all.

 

[chuckycheese]

They made em'... Mine is a 1978 GS1000E.

Of course, you're right! I misread your post and thought you had a GS1100E.

By the way, I've lived in California for many years but I grew up in Roseburg.:lol:

 

[82Shafty]

quote=Baatfam;950563]Nothing wrong with clip style master links if you put it on correctly...that's all I've ever used..
Even on the dragbike,,,,[/quote]


No, your exactly right, there isn't much to screw up on a clip-on style master. I've chewed a few up on my go-kart as a kid, but as I got older and into bikes, read about a bunch of accounts catering to CB Honda guys crying that their clip style master links would fall off at the most inopportune time, well, I just wanted to find something better. Heck, some CB guys would even try silicone sealant as a measure of insurance and still lose out.

I certainly wouldn't validate my go-kart experience as real-world cycle experience, especially with the dust and mud I subjected my chains to, but it had happened on several occasions to me as well, so I certainly wasn’t going to say that it could not happen.

I simply wanted to regurgitate what others have mentioned on here as far as first hand cycle experience, but with only hearing/reading one-sided "accounts" I couldn't speak well of the clip style masters.

I was also using the chain manufactures recommended tensile strength differences between riveted and clip-on. I want to recall that it was about a 1000 psi difference, but probably still more than enough to handle some serious abuse.

I've also learned that no matter what anyone recommends on the internet, someone will always come along to dispel it; to each their own.

And again, this is why I pretty much have stopped giving first hand accounts of my own work history, even though some of my stuff has been published in smaller news papers; it's not worth the effort/argument. I now find links to help support people, so that if they want to argue or anyone if else wants to say otherwise, they can take it up with the author.


"EK recommends using a riveted-type master link for all street and dual-sport motorcycles, and EK’s clip-type as an alternative for off-road use. Try using EK’s patented screw-type master link, provides rivet-like fit and strength without special tools or removal of the rear wheel. "

http://www.ekchain.com/install.htm

Number e.

 

[Phaseman]

Big T - That's a good deal. You'll find that the 630 chain will stretch a bit for the first 1000 miles, then barely move at all after that.

Have you posted in the Shasta rally page? You'd be a good resource there, what with being the "local" and all.

I was not aware that there was a Shasta Rally page... Where is it?

82Shafty - EK recommends using a riveted-type master link for all street and dual-sport motorcycles, and EK?s clip-type as an alternative for off-road use. Try using EK?s patented screw-type master link, provides rivet-like fit and strength without special tools or removal of the rear wheel.

That sounds like the answer to my dilemma! Gonna find one right away!

 

[Sandy]

Here ya go, not far south of Medford.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=136044

I was not aware that there was a Shasta Rally page... Where is it?