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Chain or wheel bearing

  • Thread starter Thread starter oddfellow
  • Start date Start date
O

oddfellow

Guest
1977 gs400 with 6300 miles and the rear wheel sticks a little at the same point when I put it up on the stand and rotate it. It is the same place every rotation of the wheel so unless the chain completes one rotation every turn then I didn't think it would be a bad link but was thinking maybe wheel bearing. Could this be right with so few miles?
 
How about a warp in the brakes?

Easy test

1. Remove chain, rotate wheel - any stick?
2. Loosen up rear brake adjuster, rotate wheel - any stick?
3. If it still sticks after #1 & #2, proceed to pull the wheel and check the bearings by rotating with your finger.

Even if only one is sticky, replace both while you are there. Take one out, take it to your local bearing house and get a high quality replacement. Use the old bearing as a tool to seat the new one.
 
Thanks for the reply Big T. I will do that this week and see what we see. Another question for anyone is that the clutch seems abrupt in first gear almost like the cable is sticking and then grabbing all at once. The cable seems fine and the freeplay is set correctly at the lever. Only noticed it after a little riding today on my way home. Nothing, nothing, nothing, engaged. Never had an "old" bike before so don't know exactly what normal is yet.
 
In my experience if its your chain, its binding on one or both of the sprockets, and you'll hear it...Ive had the problem recently, and if you're not really hearing it, its probably the bearing...but id check it like he suggested anyway..IF it isnt the bearing..check your sprockets, as thats more likely the cause than the chain...you may have a raised, worn or twisted tooth on one of or both of them.
 
Big T said:
How about a warp in the brakes?

Easy test

1. Remove chain, rotate wheel - any stick?
2. Loosen up rear brake adjuster, rotate wheel - any stick?
3. If it still sticks after #1 & #2, proceed to pull the wheel and check the bearings by rotating with your finger.

Even if only one is sticky, replace both while you are there. Take one out, take it to your local bearing house and get a high quality replacement. Use the old bearing as a tool to seat the new one.
Click to expand...

Good advice!
If it is the chain it will have loose and tight spots as it turns.
I took my old bearings to a bearing hut and they matched them up. Cheaper than buying from a bike shop.
 
thanks everyone. Seems it was the brake. common sense to most but I am new to this maintain my own bike thing. 12 years and 3 bikes this is the first time I've done as much as adjusted my own clutch. Looking back I guess those service guys must have loved me.
 
chef1366 said:
Good advice!
If it is the chain it will have loose and tight spots as it turns.
I took my old bearings to a bearing hut and they matched them up. Cheaper than buying from a bike shop.
Click to expand...

If it's the chain, an easier way to check (other than removing the chain), is to get the back of the bike in the air (on a stand, or whatever), and spin the wheel around by hand. When it gets to a sticky spot, check the chain tension! If it's tight, rotate the wheel a bit further, and see if the chain loosens off. If this IS the case, you NEED a new chain (and sprockets - MUST change sprockets - both of them!). An emergency fix (if you're out on the road, and find this problem, is to loosen off the rear wheel adjustment, until the chain has correct tension at the TIGHTEST point.

If the chain is OK (no tight spots), then drop the wheel out, and try rotating the wheel bearings by sticking your finger in and turning the inners. If they feel at all 'notchy', replace them! As chef1366 said - go to a place that sells bearings (get the numbers off the side of the original bearings), quote them the numbers, and get same size bearings, but SEALED ones (if yours aren't already).

Given the age of the bike, and the low miles, I'd be looking at the chain. What's probably happened, is that a link has rusted internally, and seized, causing the tight spot. IF this is the case, then you MAY get away without having to replace the sprockets. But check them for ANY signs of wear (hooked teeth, wear marks on sides of teeth...). If the mileage is correct, you shouldn't have to worry too much - just get another chain fitted, and keep it well lubed...
 
Its kinda normal..if you adjusted it out and it released and rolls fine now then good deal..hows your brake pedal feel?? Does it stop the way you want it to or do you really have to push far to get it to engage? IF you have to adjust it so far out your pedal feels like crap, then it might be time to take a look at the brake itself...
 
Still at work. Dont forget to centralise the rear brake when tightening up the back axle. other wise the brake will not work very effectively.

Cheers

Don
 
haven't ridden yet since I loosened the brake. the freeplay is where it should be though according to the Cylmer manual.
 
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