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chain replacement (78 550)

  • Thread starter Thread starter AOD
  • Start date Start date
A

AOD

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hey guys, i searched the forum but didn't find much info about this. i'm looking to replace the chain on my 550. now i'm VERY leary to do this from the last chain I changed sheared the master link at 1,000 miles, and fooked up my old 550's case. :(

if i remember correctly, i need a 530 chain, with 110 links.

what are some of your experiences....posative hopefully. any brand name reccomendations? o-ring, x-ring, non o-ring?

thanks!

~Adam
 
Re: chain replacement (78 550)

Go with an "O" ring chain. RK, DID are good. Tsubaki is also very good, but the master links that fit Tsubaki only fit Tsubaki and nothing else will work. Do not buy any chain with less than 10,000 lbs tensile strength.

Earl

AOD said:
hey guys, i searched the forum but didn't find much info about this. i'm looking to replace the chain on my 550. now i'm VERY leary to do this from the last chain I changed sheared the master link at 1,000 miles, and fooked up my old 550's case. :(

if i remember correctly, i need a 530 chain, with 110 links.

what are some of your experiences....posative hopefully. any brand name reccomendations? o-ring, x-ring, non o-ring?

thanks!

~Adam
 
I've only replaced one chain, but I had the shop press it together, and I ended up removing the swing-arm to install it. They only charged my like 10 bucks to press it together, so I figured I'd rather go that way than risk a broken chain.

Swapping the chain through the swing-arm turned out to go much faster than I'd expected, and I had it swapped within a couple of hours.

That was an '81 GS550

--Mitch
 
ChromeEK530o-ring2.JPG


chrome plated...only $194.95 for the chain. :?

dang...a 9900 tensile strength chain, non-o-ring is $75. i paid like $35 for that one i had on my old 550...i scored a hell of a deal for new.

~Adam
 
earlfor said:
That is the link to the main catalog index. You were looking at two what?
:-)
Earl
77gs550 said:
I was looking at these last week with the same thoughts....but I need 2....doh! #-o

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

Yeah, I know! \:D/ Two chains.....2 bikes :wink: . I'll get the 1000 1st as it needs it and chains are $$$. More links...

http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/html/chainsmain.shtml

http://www.mawonline.com/did.htm#Chains

http://www.mawonline.com/rk.htm#Chains

http://www.mawonline.com/renthal.htm#Chains

http://www.mawonline.com/tsubaki.htm#Chains
 
AOD said:
anyone reccomend some sites to buy at?

~Adam

Check out Dennis Kirk. www.denniskirk.com They have Parts Unlimited 'house brand ' Xring chain (Japanese not Chinese) at really good prices. I'm using one on my 550 now with a clip type master link. I've put about 5,000 miles on it and it's really holding up well. I have used Tsubaki O ring chain and flat out didn't like it. Paid big $ for it too, it didn't last any longer than non-O ring chain. I've used RK O ring chain twice, good stuff, very heavy though, tends to bind as it ages, expensive.
I'll use this Parts Unlimited chain again.
 
Yeah, I'd go to the dealer and have him pull out the Parts Unlimited catalog too. O-ring chains are nice but not really essential if you clean it with kerosene or WD40 and re-lube it with Maxima chain wax every 600 miles or so. You should get both sprockets new as well. I think it's easier to have the dealer install it since he has the tools. The tool for pressing the master link on is around $150 from Motion Pro so it's not cost-effective unless you have several bikes. Non-o-ring chains are about 3% more efficient too though I doubt any of us would notice. I have a nickel-plated one ($69) on the XS 650 and it looks really trick. There's a guy on eBay who has the GS550 chain all the time for a Buy-It-Now price of $59, I think.
 
The Motion Pro tool for pressing on a master link is only about $20. The kind that fastens the link on an endless chain is the expensive one. Getting the nut off the primary drive (drive sprocket) will probably require an air tool though.
 
Remove the countershaft nut before removing the chain. Put the bike in gear with the front wheel against a wall. Loosen the countershaft nut, then break and remove the chain. :-) Works every time for me.

Earl

Pete's GS said:
The Motion Pro tool for pressing on a master link is only about $20. The kind that fastens the link on an endless chain is the expensive one. Getting the nut off the primary drive (drive sprocket) will probably require an air tool though.
 
i have no intention of removing my chain and cleaning it, then waxxing it every 600 miles...

i did make sure my chain on there now was properly lubed always...and i'd spray it down with lube before any longer rides or after rain.

i think i'm gonna go with that O-ring chain just to avoid maintanence issues like having to clean the chain. not having a garage or shop kinda sucks...so i'm gonna go with the longer solution for right now.

~Adam
 
I thought I saw (maybe in the Clymer manual) a warning against using plain chain on the GSs. Any reason for that?

Also I was looking in the DK catalog and almost every O ring chain available has around 9,000 lb tensile strenght. Are you sure about that 10,000 lb rating, Earl?
 
gonna go with the DID chain. $77.95 D.I.D. 530V Vector O-Ring Chain 110 Links...sounds like a good deal. i never ordered from MAW before, so hopefully this goes smooth.

~Adam
 
I'm using a 630 RK chain now and its rated at 12,000. For a 550, 9000 will do fine. I wouldnt use that on an 1150 though.

Earl


Hotblack said:
I thought I saw (maybe in the Clymer manual) a warning against using plain chain on the GSs. Any reason for that?

Also I was looking in the DK catalog and almost every O ring chain available has around 9,000 lb tensile strenght. Are you sure about that 10,000 lb rating, Earl?
 
can't use a 530 on a 1100 anyway ;). though i'm sure you can convert it to a 530 chain, and it will handle it fine. the new sportbikes using 180 HP engines use 530 chains...

~Adam
 
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