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Chain stretch

Rob S.

Rob S.

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
My '82 1100e's 630 chain needs adjusting (tightening) far too often. I've owned the bike seven months and less than 1,000 miles. I'm dragging my feet replacing it because...

Well, there's no good reason, other than that I can't walk to or from the speed shop where I'll have the work done. Of course I'll replace both sprockets at the same time, but how often do old 630's actually break?

Between my '71 CB350, my '73 Z1 and my current ride, I've ridden several tens of thousands of miles and never replaced a chain. I prefer a too tight chain to a too loose one, maybe that's part of the problem.

No, I won't be converting to 530.
 
Rob,

Too tight is very bad for a chain

It needs a it of slack in the middle

Frequent tightening of a 630 means it's on its way out

Order up a RK and new sprockets from Z1 and put it on your self
 
Next time don't get a cheap chain or cheap sprockets. 13,000 on one here, not even close to needing it's first adjustment.

And don't run them too tight.
 
Not converting to 530 is a HUGE mistake. Much more selection out there in high quality o-ring and x-ring chains. 630 chains are dinosaurs; 530 conversion takes exactly the same amount of time and effort as it would to change from your current 630 setup to a new 630 setup:

Unbolt front sprocket by removing nut and lock washer.
Remove old chain.
Remove rear wheel.
Remove old rear sprocket.
Install new rear sprocket.
Remove old front sprocket.
Install new front sprocket.
Install rear wheel.
Install new chain.
Tighten front sprocket and lock down with lock washer.

Whether 630 or 530, the work is identical, you just have lots more choices in chains when you move up to a 530 chain.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Not converting to 530 is a HUGE mistake. Much more selection out there in high quality o-ring and x-ring chains. 630 chains are dinosaurs; 530 conversion takes exactly the same amount of time and effort as it would to change from your current 630 setup to a new 630 setup:

Unbolt front sprocket by removing nut and lock washer.
Remove old chain.
Remove rear wheel.
Remove old rear sprocket.
Install new rear sprocket.
Remove old front sprocket.
Install new front sprocket.
Install rear wheel.
Install new chain.
Tighten front sprocket and lock down with lock washer.
.
Click to expand...

Sounds (looks?) simple. You gotta be leaving out at least one step. I can't see my front sprocket, it's nut or lock washer.
 
When putting back on be careful you do not strip the threads in the case.


I bought a sight aligner.
Really helps.
Do not trust the marks on the swingarm unless they have been proven.

Be sure to raise the rear wheel high enough to clear fender while removing from bike.
The brake can be in the way and the clearance is needed.
I hold my brake and stay out of the way with a bungee while removing wheel.
String or rope will work too. ( Chain, but you get the idea? )

Take note of the placement of spacers on back axle.
Take a picture if you can.
Buy a new washer to flatten over front sprocket nut.
You may get away with using the lock hardware on the back sprocket, but not much of a cost.
Do not forget to buy a few cotter pins for crown nut on axle.
While you have the rear wheel off place your finger inside each wheel bearing and spin with some pressure.
Make sure they are nice and smooth.
If you feel any catching or roughness it is time to replace.
Slap a very thin layer of grease on axle before inserting, be aware that most of it will come off while pushing through.
Handy to insert a drift or punch through the side you are pushing the axle towards to align wheel.

All and all not difficult!
 
Last edited:
Just because.
My setup is a bit different then yours and you do not have the same washer as in this thread.
Possibly check alignment and chain slack after a test ride when you have her buttoned back up.
I really do not like the fact that the axle can move back even with the crown nut torqued to spec.
Seems as if the brake side can be difficult to adjust properly for this fact.

Ps. do not forget to torque crown nut on axle to spec.
 
+1 with Koolaid - I looked around for a long time and came to the conclusion that there is higher quality selections in the 530 arena- have 2500 miles on new one with no adjustments. If you can't replace a chain on a bike, you shouldn't be able to ride one- it's that easy. When your bicycle slipped a chain as a kid, who put it back on??? I also prefer the rivet to the lock link--
 
Rob, if you can afford it and they are willing to do quality work, more power to the both of you. Might leave you with more time to ride.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Might leave you with more time to ride.
Click to expand...

In and out in less than an hour including travel time? Somehow I doubt it.

I agree with the other guy on this. If you can't change a chain, adjust a clutch cable or change your oil, you shouldn't be allowed to ride. It really is that simple.
 
Not really. Not if you have followed Rob's journey through the forum in getting the bike up and running. I still remember his "I bought my first torque wrench" post.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Not really. Not if you have followed Rob's journey through the forum in getting the bike up and running. I still remember his "I bought my first torque wrench" post.
Click to expand...

No, seen it, read a few posts, haven't followed it. He must be getting a little bit better, no?
 
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