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Chain Tips

salty_monk

salty_monk

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
The 78 1000 has an RK630 GSO chain on it. It seemed a little tight to me after reviewing Haynes. Any tips on that?

Anyone know if this chain has a link clip? I don't see one but I think it would be easier to clean off the bike.

Can I clean it with "Greased Lightning" degreaser? Works well on my mountain bike chains but I think this is an O ring chain so not sure what to do with it...

Got a can of oil on the way from Z1 so re-lube should be fine.

Thanks,

Dan :)
 
Awful stuff... someone fed me some in Oklahoma city! I could taste it the rest of the next day.. :lol:
 
clean

clean

I keep mine clean with WD40 then use Maxima chain wax AFTER a ride when the chain is warm
 
The Suzuki manual calls for the use of kerosene to clean O-ring chains since it's mild. Mineral Spirits (paint thinner) is what I use, it's mild as well. Brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and the like are much harsher (but good stuff!).

You might want to measure the length of the chain and compare to the service standard (there is an elongation limit standard). Chances are if the chain is original, it'll be elongated. Again, if it's standard, it will be endless and you will have to break it to remove unless you feel like removing the swing arm (not a bad idea actually since you can grease the bearings).

Good luck. :)
 
sharpy said:
I keep mine clean with WD40 then use Maxima chain wax AFTER a ride when the chain is warm
Click to expand...

+1 on that, WD is mostly kerosene and works very well. No lube after for me, my bikes live inside and have never had a problem.

Mark
 
Brake cleaner would be too harsh on o-rings I would think. I do the kerosene thing too. If you can take it off it is easier for sure. I've lubed with everything from used motor oil to 90wt gear oil to just WD40... I am using Maxima chain wax right now and it keeps the chain quiet. I think anything is good enough as long as you keep the chain clean somehow.
 
Thanks for all the tips...

Ed, swingarm is coming off anyway for a paint job so I'll take the chain off & measure it against spec in the Haynes manual. I thought the bearings were sealed? If not I'll make sure I get some grease in there.

It had a "replace" sticker on the tensioner that said replace when this lines up with swingarm end (from what I could make out). The two marks were only about 3mm apart. It was just shy of the replace one but in my limited opinion it was too tight so I would guess it's elongated but serviceable.

If poss I am going to try to run it to save some pennies. When it needs switching out I'll prob get one of those 530 kits from Z1.

Dan :)
 
Last edited:
Hey Dan,
The chain might have tightened up because it's corroded and the o-rings have dried out. Best to give it a good soak and then retension to the proper amount of slack. You might find that the chain will need to be tightened up again fairly soon but a too loose chain can be tightened, a too tight chain will wear your transmision bearings or damage the engine cases. One thing to check for is more slack on one side of the chain vs. the other side, a sure sign of a worn out chain.

Good luck.

Ed
 
Thanks for all the info... How do I measure the slack? Assume it's deflection from it's normal position when lifted? Do I need to remove the chain guard & check the top too?

Thanks,

Dan :)
 
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