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Chains

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Anyone know a good way to tell if the chain needs tightening?
I've heard 3/4 inch of play,1 inch of play,1 1/2 but, is that on the center stand or side stand?
Tips for tightening the chain?
 
Thank You, Nick..... and now for a real answer. Always put the bike up on the center stand. Measure free play on the lower run of the chain, halfway between sprockets. It should be ~20 mm (.8 in) If it needs tightening, remove the cotter pin from the rear axle bolt & loosen it. A 15/16 in box wrench is a good fit on my 79 750. Loosen the locknuts on the two chain adjuster bolts and loosen the brake torque rod nuts. Turn the adjuster nuts clockwise to tighten the chain. Take it slow & always turn both bolts the same number of turns. When the tension is right, check the alignment marks to be sure it's straight & tighten the axle nut. Fit a new cotter pin & tighten the adjuster locknuts and torque rod nuts.
 
Nick Diaz said:
Best thing to do: get a shaft-driven bike!

Shaftie Nick

But remember that IF you want to buy a shaft-bike that you got to have proof that your at least over 50 years old otherwise you can't have it :twisted:
 
robinjo said:
But remember that IF you want to buy a shaft-bike that you got to have proof that your at least over 50 years old otherwise you can't have it :twisted:
Hey wait a minute, I'm Not Fifty 8O and I have an 1100G that is certainly no slouch. :lol: :lol: Bill
 
Bill + Karen said:
robinjo said:
But remember that IF you want to buy a shaft-bike that you got to have proof that your at least over 50 years old otherwise you can't have it :twisted:
Hey wait a minute, I'm Not Fifty 8O and I have an 1100G that is certainly no slouch. :lol: :lol: Bill

I second that :!: 8)
 
When adjusting the chain make sure that you do it on the tightest spot on the chain. This will vary from bike to bike. Otherwise you risk have the chain too tight over some of its travel.

I also usually make sure that the adjustment is ok when you are sitting on the bike. Once you do it once, adjusting it on the centrestand to the same tension makes it easy.

GS shaft drive bikes also have cam chains......
 
Why does it seem that all chains have tight and loose spots? :? Also, is it possible that sprockets can be drilled off center? :?
 
robinjo said:
Nick Diaz said:
Best thing to do: get a shaft-driven bike!

Shaftie Nick

But remember that IF you want to buy a shaft-bike that you got to have proof that your at least over 50 years old otherwise you can't have it :twisted:

I was 44 when I got my first one. I have 3 now and wouldnt give any of them up for a chain drive. BTW I'm still WAY under 50. On yeah an already retired once.
 
Jay B said:
robinjo said:
Nick Diaz said:
Best thing to do: get a shaft-driven bike!

Shaftie Nick

But remember that IF you want to buy a shaft-bike that you got to have proof that your at least over 50 years old otherwise you can't have it :twisted:

I was 44 when I got my first one. I have 3 now and wouldnt give any of them up for a chain drive. BTW I'm still WAY under 50. On yeah an already retired once.
Your M.A. is about 137. :lol:
 
Humhead wrote:
Measure free play on the lower run of the chain, halfway between sprockets. It should be ~20 mm (.8 in)
Well I check my chain today, and when I grab the lower chain it moves about 1 1/2 from up to down when the bike is on the center stand. I can't imagine tightening up the chain to .8 of an inch in play. :?
What am I missing?
Besides a shaft drive. :wink:
 
shaftzuki said:
Bill + Karen said:
robinjo said:
But remember that IF you want to buy a shaft-bike that you got to have proof that your at least over 50 years old otherwise you can't have it :twisted:
Hey wait a minute, I'm Not Fifty 8O and I have an 1100G that is certainly no slouch. :lol: :lol: Bill

I second that :!: 8)

I third that!! :!:
 
I dont think youre missing anything. 1 1/2" total sounds about right and is what I've been running this past three decades. :-) :-) Works for me. :-)

Earl

Visionz said:
Well I check my chain today, and when I grab the lower chain it moves about 1 1/2 from up to down when the bike is on the center stand. I can't imagine tightening up the chain to .8 of an inch in play. :?
What am I missing?
Besides a shaft drive. :wink:
 
Visionz said:
Well I check my chain today, and when I grab the lower chain it moves about 1 1/2 from up to down when the bike is on the center stand. I can't imagine tightening up the chain to .8 of an inch in play.

The trouble with adjusting it on the centerstand is it usually ends up too tight with the bike on the ground. I use a swingarm stand since it keeps the suspension geometry the same as if it were sitting on the ground.
 
I copied what I wrote out of the factory service manual for the 2 valve GS 1000.
The trouble with adjusting it on the centerstand is it usually ends up too tight with the bike on the ground. I use a swingarm stand since it keeps the suspension geometry the same as if it were sitting on the ground.
That's a really good point! It makes sense to check free play with the bike on its wheels & you on it. If you can get a friend to help just once, You can set the tension with you on the bike. As soon as you're done, Check it on the center stand. Make a note of the free play & set it this way from now on.
I dont think youre missing anything. 1 1/2" total sounds about right and is what I've been running this past three decades. Works for me.
Can't argue with that! I hope I didn't lead you astray. Sometimes the manual & real world experience don't quite match. When in doubt choose experience. I didn't ask the question, but I learned something valuable anyway. Thanks everyone!

Terry
 
hey now I am 26 w/2 1100gls am I wrong???? Like I always say its best to be on the right end of a good shafting!
 
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