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Change the oil first?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
So, I didn't get the oil changed in my 80 gs 1100 before the weather closed in last fall so it has sat all winter with the dirty oil in it.
Should I run it & warm the oil before changing it? I'll also be replacing the oil pan as my drain plug has stripped. I realize all the sludge will be sitting in the oil pan & I really don't want it circulating through my motor. I'm thinking it would be best to
1: drain the dirty oil
2: Remove/replace the pan & gasket
3: Fill with fresh oil

Does this sound like a plan?
 
Yes...do it as your plan says. Be sure to remove the pick up screen and clean that also. As some have done, you can replace the phillips head screws with regualr hex head bolts for ease of removal later and ease of tughtening them.

Some folks will go so far as to remove the entier assembly and refresh the oring in there as well...but thats not really a must do thing.
 
Dale..In this case, Paul said he needs to pull the pan to fix the stripped drain threads..so it really wouldnt matter. He can scrub the pan nice and clean and service the screen as well. Thing is that removing the old gasket stuck to the block sucks. Getting it off while laying on the garage floor is a pain in the sack.
 
he can't scrub the top end, nor can he make the oil drain as completely as he can when the oil is warm.

Oil that is warm will also hold more contaminants in suspension than will oil left to set until it's cold.
 
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Doesn't the oil trickle down to the sump anyway? If the engine is run prior to draining, a lot of the oil will still be up in the engine. Myself, I always let the engine sit overnight before draining and give it plenty of time to do so. The dirt will still be in suspension.
 
I always get the oil as hot as I can stand it before draining, gets all that stuff all mixed up in the oil, the hotter the oil, the quicker it drains. But now I have a plastic catch pan, if it's too hot it will probably melt it, so I can't get it as hot as I otherwise would.
If I were to do it with a cold engine that sat through winter, I would probably change it again shortly afterwards if it looked like it needed it.
Just my two cents, your bike.
 
Drain it and drop the pan, its been sitting for months and only small pockets of oil remain, like in the cam lobe pockets. Change the filter too.
Mark
 
Starion007 said:
Drain it and drop the pan, its been sitting for months and only small pockets of oil remain, like in the cam lobe pockets. Change the filter too.
Mark
Click to expand...

Yep, oil was hot when bike was parked of course so I'm confident it drained down anyway. Removing the oil pan after draining will show me how much shavings, sludge & crap were in the engine. Then new gasket, new filter, new oil & I should be good to go.

Thanks all.
 
As long as the bike was run until the oil got up to temp before it was shut down and never restarted without allowing it to warm up fully, I agree with you. The problem, as I see it, is when someone fires it up for a few moments then shuts it down more crud tends to pool in those pockets, nor does it get a chance to drain as completely than if it were drained while hot.

It's probably splitting hairs with the hot oil drain method when done on a bike that has sat for quite a long time. But... I'll do it my way and you can do it how ever you'd like.
 
One could also buy enough new oil to do a flush and drain..then refill with the second round of new oil to stay in the engine. But ( to me) I think thats just a bit too paranoid and a tad bit of overkill.
 
I'm pulling the motor on my bike and decided to drop in a picture to illustrate what I was talking about. My bike has sat for 3 months before this tear down.
View attachment 19194 That's how mush was linger in the head.
Mark
 
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