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Changing springs and clutch cable tips?

  • Thread starter Thread starter littleroot
  • Start date Start date
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littleroot

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Changing springs and clutch cable 80GS1100E

Is there a how-to for this?

So like my GL can I just put the bike on the side stand and I should not spill as much as a half pint? I wonder if having the oil cooler on is going to impact that guestimate of spillage?

Clutch cable, six springs and gasket are ready. All OEM parts.

GASKET 11482-49202-H17

CLUTCH SPRINGS (6ct): 09440-19007

CLUTCH CABLE: 58200-45401


Bike needs to cool down as I was just riding and I have have to play taxi for my son right now. Back soon


Thanks for any tips/tricks
 
littleroot said:
Changing springs and clutch cable 80GS1100E

Is there a how-to for this?

So like my GL can I just put the bike on the side stand and I should not spill as much as a half pint? I wonder if having the oil cooler on is going to impact that guestimate of spillage?

Clutch cable, six springs and gasket are ready. All OEM parts.

GASKET 11482-49202-H17

CLUTCH SPRINGS (6ct): 09440-19007

CLUTCH CABLE: 58200-45401


Bike needs to cool down as I was just riding and I have have to play taxi for my son right now. Back soon


Thanks for any tips/tricks
Click to expand...


Springs take a matter of minutes. There's just 6 10mm bolts, in a circle. Each bolt has a washer and spring, you just pop 'em loose and spring comes out easy.
Sometimes you gotta be careful twisting the bolts back in, because the new springs are stiffer and have more resistance.
 
Yes, just lean it over on the sidestand. Be sure and have a pan underneath the cover "just in case".
Cable: just remove the seat and the tank and it should be accessible. Be sure and route the new one the same way as the old one. It crosses over the engine since the clutch lever is on the left but the clutch actuation is on the right.
I prefer to compare the lengths before installing the new cable. I have gotten cables the wrong length before. Loosen the adjuster on the clutch perch first, then on the engine. Install the opposite way, on the engine first then fine adjust with the clutch perch adjuster.
 
Thanks guys. Sounds good. I'm thinking stone cold engine might be best for this but not sure. Oil would not be as runny is all I am thinking.

Also as it was suggested to only replace half of the springs do you have any tips for identifying them in case I later feel I should replace them all? I guess I could try scoring the top of the bolts.

Thanks again, guys.
-Bob
 
Unless you are drag racing constantly, just go with all six stock springs. Heavier ones are no better, they just wear everything out quicker.
 
I can put it on for you on Saturday when I'm there if you'd like.
 
tkent02 said:
Unless you are drag racing constantly, just go with all six stock springs. Heavier ones are no better, they just wear everything out quicker.
Click to expand...

These are OEM, stock.

I've heard from some to replace only half at a time and test
 
chef1366 said:
I can put it on for you on Saturday when I'm there if you'd like.
Click to expand...

I was hoping to be done by then :D

Saturday I have a commitment with family from about 7:30 AM and I will not be free until late afternoon, about 4. Let me know if you might still be around.
Thanks
 
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littleroot said:
I've heard from some to replace only half at a time and test
Click to expand...

With stock springs that would not be necessary. Aftermarket springs are usually advertised as being 10% stiffer: by spring rate that may well be true, but they're also often longer and thus also have pre-load that is not considered in that 10%, so they get way harder to squeeze. If you replace all 6 springs with aftermarket springs, you might find yourself with one serious case of crab claw in your left hand!

With OEM springs, replace all six. It's not a bad idea to check the fibers and steels, but they tend to not wear out much - usually if there's a bit of slippage with OEM stuff, springs are all that is needed. If you don't check the steels/fibers, just replace one spring at a time.

One thing I found helpful when installing the new springs was to stuff some paper towel into the socket. That kept the bolt from sinking back in to the socket and made it easier to engage against the spring tension.
 
Well the cable look like it is the right length so I took it off and removed all the bolts but it looks like the brake pedal might be in the way. Don't know yet because I cannot get the cover off! Wishing I had a rubber mallet at the moment...

Any tips before I drive a chisel in there?!

Dinner time, back soon
 
Anything more I should remove before the over comes off?

IMG_20130207_175559_zps4727f2df.jpg
 
littleroot said:
Any tips before I drive a chisel in there?!
Click to expand...

How about, "don't drive a chisel in there!"

Take the oil filler cap out and try using a block of wood and tapping that lightly with your hammer away from the block. Steel contact by either your hammer or a chisel is not likely to be good for your clutch cover. Most likely the gasket is just hard and once it starts to go it will break all the way pretty easily.
 
Actually, I recommend putting the clutch actuation lever back on before removing the cover. Otherwise you may have issues getting it lined up correctly when re-installing the cover.
If you need to remove the brake pedal you will need to remove the footpeg, then the bolt on the brake pedal, then spread the gap just a bit, pull the pedal out and let it hang, possibly supported by a wire, coat hanger or twine.
 
With all the linkage intact, squeezing the clutch puts outward pressure on the cover. Might pop it off by itself. Then if you still need it, do as Mike of BBG recommended, or just tap on the oil cap (not the handle, the edge of the cap) with a board and a mallet from the other side.
 
Clutch cover is off, tapping with wood was perfect idea, springs are changed, new gasket with thin motor oil spread on both sides along the edge is hanging on the two mate studs.But I am having some trouble getting the cover back on. Unfortunately I had already removed the linkage. Going to work it back and forth a bit and see if I can get the part poking out of the middle of the clutch to mate with the cover.
 
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Got it on. I put the linkage back on and jilggled it back and forth and it went on. Time to bolt it back on - I will be using blue locktite
 
Clutch cable is on and wow is it hard to pull now with the new springs. No test drive as it just started raining and I am beat. Thanks everyone for your help!
 
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