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Charging Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter danbobberino
  • Start date Start date
I took the cover (crankcase cover?) off of the rotor on my bike and used my screwdriver tip to count how many times it stuck as I went around the inside of the rotor and sure enough! Its a 12 pole rotor! Someone molested it and put an 18 pole rotor in - insert angry face!

Can anyone recommend a brand of rotor? If not, I'll order this one I guess: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ElectroSpor...ash=item25b96a958f:g:SswAAOSwmtJXUpSP&vxp=mtr

Don't worry about it, I just ordered it....
 
Okay, just hooked it back up and tested

1. Battery tested 12.9 volts - I had it on a trickle charger this afternoon and haven't touched it since

2. Turned ignition key on and headlight on - 12V

3. Started bike and idled - no headlight 12.3V
- headlight 12.1V

4. 2500RPM headlight on - 12.1V

5. 5000RMP headlight on - 12.1V

6. turned key off (headlight turned off when key turned off) - 12.4V

These were all tested at the battery terminals (battery is brand new with 2 short rides on it)

I just unhooked the alternator leads and tested ac voltage with the bike running. I tried my best to rev it up but my tach doesn't work and I didn't want to rev the **** out of it because its 10:45PM and I'm working right outside my 2 year olds window who is sleeping.

I got up to 45Volts phase to phase on all 3 phases while I was revving it and about 15-16V phase to ground while revving it. I don't know how many RPM I was at but I definitely wasn't very hi.

Tomorrow I will start up the bike with the alternator disconnected again and rev the bike up more and see if I'm getting the 75-90V phase to phase as Steve mentioned in the previous reply.

Please see my youtube video below where I tested the R/R.

https://youtu.be/-EWdixr2vak

I think my R/R is shot by these tests.....

What do you think?





I pulled an 18 pole stator out of the bike. I put on the new 12 pole stator and fired up the bike. I got 0V phase to phase and 0V phase to ground. I'm confused. I took a metal screw around my rotor and it stuck 12 times (as in magnetic) and you had mentioned it should be a 12 pole. I assumed that meant I needed a 12 pole stator. Was I wrong in believing the rotor is a 12 pole and it really is an 18? As shown above I did actually get voltage out of the old 18 pole stator and am getting nothing out of the 12 pole.

What do I do now?
 
image.jpgThe rotor that goes with the 18 pole stator has 6 pairs of N/S magnets, i.e. 12 total. The rotor thst mates with the 12 pole stator has 4 pairs of N/S magnets,i.e. 8 total. While the screwdriver test is fine, I prefer to use a small round magnet like in attached pic... one magnet side is N ,other is S. As you move it around inside of rotor, the N side of magnet will grab at the rotor's S pole, but push off from the rotor's N pole. This lets you count the poles that you got.
 
View attachment 51169The rotor that goes with the 18 pole stator has 6 pairs of N/S magnets, i.e. 12 total. The rotor thst mates with the 12 pole stator has 4 pairs of N/S magnets,i.e. 8 total. While the screwdriver test is fine, I prefer to use a small round magnet like in attached pic... one magnet side is N ,other is S. As you move it around inside of rotor, the N side of magnet will grab at the rotor's S pole, but push off from the rotor's N pole. This lets you count the poles that you got.

I just put the old 18 pole stator back into it and got the same 52 -ish volts phase to phase. I hooked it up to my new sh775 (which actually doesn't say sh775 on it anywhere?) and I got about 2Vdc out of the R/R.

What do I do now? I keep pouring money into this thing and can't seem to fix the problems.
 
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So I ordered the 18 pole stator (I believe I ordered the correct one) as well as a genuine shindengen sh775BA and I'm going to try to return the knock off I bought.

Do you guys think there could possibly be a problem with the rotor? I know to create voltage you need a conductor, magnetic field, and relative motion. I was consistently getting about 52 volts phase to phase out of the existing stator and about 16 volts phase to ground under no load conditions.... I am assuming this is low? Should probably be more like what 75V phase to phase?
 
So I ordered the 18 pole stator (I believe I ordered the correct one) as well as a genuine shindengen sh775BA and I'm going to try to return the knock off I bought.

Do you guys think there could possibly be a problem with the rotor? I know to create voltage you need a conductor, magnetic field, and relative motion. I was consistently getting about 52 volts phase to phase out of the existing stator and about 16 volts phase to ground under no load conditions.... I am assuming this is low? Should probably be more like what 75V phase to phase?

does anyone know of a way to test the rotor? Part of me thinks the fact I was maxing out at like 52V makes me think the magnetic field has weakened.
 
does anyone know of a way to test the rotor? Part of me thinks the fact I was maxing out at like 52V makes me think the magnetic field has weakened.

From memory I think the test is to change it out if the stator doesn't put out the right voltage or it is visibly damaged. I don't think there is any other test you can do.

If someone has changed out your 12 pole for an 18 pole then they may have hit the rotor removing / installing and this can ruin them.
 
Yes, generally unless there is obvious damage, rotors seldom come up broken or not serviceable.

From memory I think the test is to change it out if the stator doesn't put out the right voltage or it is visibly damaged. I don't think there is any other test you can do.

If someone has changed out your 12 pole for an 18 pole then they may have hit the rotor removing / installing and this can ruin them.
 
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