Charging System question/confusion

[fastbysuzuki]

I notice one of the fake makers has caught on to the nubs on the heatsink fins of the genuine SH-775, and is making exact copies now.

I belive some are glueing stainless or shiny plates to the bottom to make them look more realistic although the glue job is poor but on a picture that my not be easy to spot.

 

[John Cross]

I notice one of the fake makers has caught on to the nubs on the heatsink fins of the genuine SH-775, and is making exact copies now.

As the fakes continue to get more realistic, how are the real SH-775 proven? Is there a test or certain values that can be verified?

 

[tom203]

If it's new and genuine, the sh-775 will be in $100+ range at polaris dealer.
Used genuine units will likely be dirty/ stained due to their location on the atv. They will fail the typical shunt r/r diode test - they won't appear to conduct current in either direction. Best bet is to get an A/C current clamp on meter and do comparison testing on output of a running bike. The sh-775 seems to "freeze" the output to about 2/3 of what a typical shunt unit will do.

 

[posplayr]

If it's new and genuine, the sh-775 will be in $100+ range at polaris dealer.
Used genuine units will likely be dirty/ stained due to their location on the atv. They will fail the typical shunt r/r diode test - they won't appear to conduct current in either direction. Best bet is to get an A/C current clamp on meter and do comparison testing on output of a running bike. The sh-775 seems to "freeze" the output to about 2/3 of what a typical shunt unit will do.

+1; good test . Thanks for keeping the faith.

 

[ehkmcveh]

Pass on that R/R, it's not a 775.

Here is one for $10 (plus shipping). Does not specifically say 775, but has all the other items that make me think it's OK.
If I needed another spare, I would not be mentioning this one to you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Rz...254063?hash=item2cd93d9a2f:g:wp0AAOSwciVbbajP

If someone beats you to that one, here is the next one I would look for:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2014-...829280?hash=item3d70d234a0:g:mUkAAOSwNgpbd4IH

One last item:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/13-POLARIS...488699&hash=item3b18d22500:g:U4MAAOSwZHxbduqv

.

Thanks for that but i missed out on those, looking at this guy
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/RZR-800-S-Ignition-Voltage-Regulator-From-2011-Polaris-76/352425187161
Looks legit (from states) but contacted the seller to get pic of the actual PN.




It will get here just in time for the snow to fall!

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

looks like the real deal but your were good to ask for a pic of the top fin with the SH775XX printed on it.

 

[ehkmcveh]

Ordered new stator ES ESG-015
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/ElectroSpor...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
STarted it up and got leg to ground at 5000rpm at about 28-30V on each leg. Not good

 

[Steve]

Ordered new stator ES ESG-015
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/ElectroSpor...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
STarted it up and got leg to ground at 5000rpm at about 28-30V on each leg. Not good

I recently installed new Electrosport stators in two of our three bikes. I did not check my son's 1000 after the install, but the voltmeter looked better, so I presumed all was well. With my bike, the voltage ended up looking OK, but took more RPM to get it there. I checked output, it's ~75v leg-to-leg, but it also has ~37-38v leg-to-ground on all three legs. We just finished a week-long trip with no electrical problems, so 37v leg-to-ground might be acceptable?

.

 

[ehkmcveh]

I recently installed new Electrosport stators in two of our three bikes. I did not check my son's 1000 after the install, but the voltmeter looked better, so I presumed all was well. With my bike, the voltage ended up looking OK, but took more RPM to get it there. I checked output, it's ~75v leg-to-leg, but it also has ~37-38v leg-to-ground on all three legs. We just finished a week-long trip with no electrical problems, so 37v leg-to-ground might be acceptable?

.

Yeah my voltmeter was not looking too well... around 12.6V at battery at around 4000rpm
Use automotive spades/dielectric grease and a couple solders..... Used single point ground on SH775. Fuses didn't look too bad. Scratching my head on this one.

 

[posplayr]

Yeah my voltmeter was not looking too well... around 12.6V at battery at around 4000rpm
Use automotive spades/dielectric grease and a couple solders..... Used single point ground on SH775. Fuses didn't look too bad. Scratching my head on this one.

This issue has come up in the past where people think their charging system is sorta working but they get the leg to ground readings (more than 10 VAC).
Given the high reliability of the leg to ground test in diagnosing problems and my own analysis of how having an isolated stator in any way bleeding voltage to the ground being anything but bad, I would tend to discount those situations where someone thinks everything is A-OK with VAC measurements leg to ground.

 

[ehkmcveh]

This issue has come up in the past where people think their charging system is sorta working but they get the leg to ground readings (more than 10 VAC).
Given the high reliability of the leg to ground test in diagnosing problems and my own analysis of how having an isolated stator in any way bleeding voltage to the ground being anything but bad, I would tend to discount those situations where someone thinks everything is A-OK with VAC measurements leg to ground.

Any ideas on what could be causing the leakage.. before it was thought that it was a fried stator (tried that)... perhaps it could be the hardware used to hold the stator in place? I did snap one of the three screws and had to use a different one . Doesnt seem likely though
I also did notice there wasn't oil in the stator pan when i removed it. Oil is an insulator. Oil level in crank case was between the L and F.

 

[ehkmcveh]

I recently installed new Electrosport stators in two of our three bikes. I did not check my son's 1000 after the install, but the voltmeter looked better, so I presumed all was well. With my bike, the voltage ended up looking OK, but took more RPM to get it there. I checked output, it's ~75v leg-to-leg, but it also has ~37-38v leg-to-ground on all three legs. We just finished a week-long trip with no electrical problems, so 37v leg-to-ground might be acceptable?

.

I re-did the tests and got basically exactly as you did, tested at 5000rpmL
Leg to ground (OL) and Leg to Leg (91 ohms) resistance all tested well
Leg to Ground Voltages 38V on all three, stabbed into engine block
Leg to Leg was 75V on all three
I cant think of anything else to try to get Leg to ground voltage to 0V, brand new stator...

 

[posplayr]

I re-did the tests and got basically exactly as you did, tested at 5000rpmL
Leg to ground (OL) and Leg to Leg (91 ohms) resistance all tested well
Leg to Ground Voltages 38V on all three, stabbed into engine block
Leg to Leg was 75V on all three
I cant think of anything else to try to get Leg to ground voltage to 0V, brand new stator...

it is possible it is the difference between Wye and delta windings where the wye virtual neutral is grounded. Look up 3 phase power for the two different configurations.
the problem with that theory is that there is a dc block(ohm meter test) but at ac current is flowing. They would have to have some type of capacitive coupling to ground.

 

[ehkmcveh]

Quick Tesst
1. 13.1V
2. 12.157V
3. 12.6V @1100rpm
4. 14.3V @2500rpm
5. 14.438V @ 5000rpm
6. Didnt do, oops
Re-visited each connection and cleaned with Scotch bright pad. Much better results

 

[posplayr]

Quick Tesst
1. 13.1V
2. 12.157V
3. 12.6V @1100rpm
4. 14.3V @2500rpm
5. 14.438V @ 5000rpm
6. Didnt do, oops
Re-visited each connection and cleaned with Scotch bright pad. Much better results

Looks excellent. If you spray with DeOxit then those connections will last longer. It is microscopic corrosion that starts to lower the output voltages. Deoxit crates a protective layer. After that dielectric grease will be an overall protection.