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Charging system/ starting woes

  • Thread starter Thread starter gearhead13
  • Start date Start date
G

gearhead13

Guest
On my last ride, I stopped at a gas station for a break, and the bike wouldnt start. They had a shop there and they hooked up a booster to it and got it running again, then I asked him to check battery running voltage, no charging:(
Last I checked it was doing 14.5v with rpm. Maybe the jumping fried my charging system?
Earlier, I brought the battery to Canadian Tire and they checked the battery health with their snap-on checker and it said the battery was ok, and they charged it for me, I picked it up later.
So, when I got the bike back home after my ride, I went through checks of my charging system. Stator ohm readings were good. I couldnt remember exactly how to check the ac voltage, so I had one lead on ground and one on one of the yellow stator wires, and saw 20-30V at 3k rpm. (I live in an apartment and it would wake the dead at 5k rpm in the underground parking)
Question: If the ohm readings of the stator are ok, why would the ac readings be bad??
Question: if the stator is bad, could it fry my R&R?
I took out the R&R and tested it and it seemed to be dead.
The R&R red wire directly to the battery, and ground directly to the battery, sense wire going to full battery voltage. (Dueanage R&R)
Ordered a new R&R from Ebay off of a GL1100, tested the same as the old one:confused:
My tester has a spot supposed to be diode test, I think its just ohm reading. Can I test an R&R properly with an ohm meter?
Question: My new R&R has two red and two green(ground) wires on it, do I connect them together and then to battery? Or tape one wire off and use one wire?
 
You need to review the charging tests as you made a few testing errors. The AC voltage test is between the stator wires and not to ground. If this is a Shindengen R/R, I'd be real surprised if it was at fault, so put that newer R/R aside for now and review the correct testing procedure. Mr Posplayer has made the tests as simple as possible so take advantage of his efforts. Clean connections are vital.
The diode test is a crude one, as it just tests the rectifing diodes and not the regulating function of the R/R.
 
tom203 said:
You need to review the charging tests as you made a few testing errors. The AC voltage test is between the stator wires and not to ground. If this is a Shindengen R/R, I'd be real surprised if it was at fault, so put that newer R/R aside for now and review the correct testing procedure. Mr Posplayer has made the tests as simple as possible so take advantage of his efforts. Clean connections are vital.
The diode test is a crude one, as it just tests the rectifing diodes and not the regulating function of the R/R.
Click to expand...
The new R&R is a Shindengen, the old one is from Dueanage, says ch125-6 on it. I am NOT going to rev my bike to 5k rpm in the underground parking. I dont feel like being evicted for a stator test. So what should the ac voltage be at 3k rpm?
Did you read everything? I KNOW I did the AC test wrong, I havent had time to redo it.
 
gearhead13 said:
The new R&R is a Shindengen, the old one is from Dueanage, says ch125-6 on it. I am NOT going to rev my bike to 5k rpm in the underground parking. I dont feel like being evicted for a stator test. So what should the ac voltage be at 3k rpm?
Did you read everything? I KNOW I did the AC test wrong, I havent had time to redo it.
Click to expand...
YES, I did read everything. I guess the ch125-6 is a chinese knockoff of a Shindengen. If you can't review the testing procedure, it makes it difficult to assign blame. I'll take a wild guess and say that at 3k rpm, the AC voltage between any two stator wires (R/R disconnected) would be 45 volts if the stator was in a happy state, unlike me.
 
tom203 said:
YES, I did read everything. I guess the ch125-6 is a chinese knockoff of a Shindengen. If you can't review the testing procedure, it makes it difficult to assign blame. I'll take a wild guess and say that at 3k rpm, the AC voltage between any two stator wires (R/R disconnected) would be 45 volts if the stator was in a happy state, unlike me.
Click to expand...

Probably higher than 45. Don't have a bike with me to test it, sorry.
 
I've generally found ~20 +/-5 VAC at idle depending on the bike and idle RPMs(this is across 4 makes and 5 models of bikes). Haven't payed close attention to just what the values are as it climbs, but it climbs fairly steadily with RPMs, so 45-50 VAC at 3000RPM sounds about right. And yes, should be the same between any 2 of the yellow stator wires, not the ground.
 
verde said:
I've generally found ~20 +/-5 VAC at idle depending on the bike and idle RPMs(this is across 4 makes and 5 models of bikes). Haven't payed close attention to just what the values are as it climbs, but it climbs fairly steadily with RPMs, so 45-50 VAC at 3000RPM sounds about right. And yes, should be the same between any 2 of the yellow stator wires, not the ground.
Click to expand...
I will try the test again tomorrow and hope for enough ac and even across all the wires. I dont want to take a chance of ruining my new R&R with a flaky stator.
 
There should be 60+ volts AC between each stator leg at 5000 rpm. Less than this indicates a weak stator.
 
I read on Basscliffs site that you only need to go to 4k rpm for 60VAC. The sound that my 1327 makes at anything over idle in the undergound parking is deafening:o
 
gearhead13 said:
I will try the test again tomorrow and hope for enough ac and even across all the wires. I dont want to take a chance of ruining my new R&R with a flaky stator.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but your first post described "jumping with booster" -this is to be avoided in the future as it can overwhelm a bikes electricals.
 
tom203 said:
He said it was a garage station booster- sorta like a short circuit device on wheels!
Click to expand...
Well it was either sit there for several hours to let the bike cool down, or get the guy to use his booster:rolleyes:
I think he said he was feeding it 40A:o to get it to start.
 
My standard size Shumacher has a starting mode of (supposedly) 40 Amps. It is what I would call a hand-held vs. one on a roll cart.
 
Stator tested good, 50VAC and even at 3k rpm and 60VAC at 4k rpm.
I will get my new R&R installed on my days off.
The question I asked before is that this one has two red and two green wires. Do I connect them together then to the battery. Or just tape one off:confused: Does it matter?
There are 2 red, 2 green, 3 yellow, one black (sense)
 
Hi,

gearhead13 said:
Yes, I read that and did the tests, much more informative than the 'stator papers' The tests in the stator papers never worked for me. All R&R's (good or bad) tested bad with the stator papers tests:confused:
Click to expand...

The Stator Papers has a couple of active tests that are very informative (like the voltage drop between the r/r output and the battery positive). But I put those together as "quick and dirty" tests to aid in troubleshooting. I have found that almost any test will tell you if you have a bad part but won't necessarily prove that you have a good part.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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