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Charging system with very little load.

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Guest

Guest
Hey guys. I'm using a gs charging system on another project and I was just wondering how the rr and stator would be affected if there was only a battery and ignition system with no other loads.

Its for another seadoo project that I'm playing with. It has an identical stator and rr setup so I figured the rr's we put on the gs' s would be better than the stock seadoo one since this one is fried anyays.

Thanks
 
A Shunt R/R it will get hot because it is shunting all the load you are not using.

This would work be better to completely disconnect one of the stator legs but then the voltage coming out of the R/R is pretty dirty.

Best to use a Series R/R ; it will only use what is needed.
 
That explains why the stock ones seem to blow the regulating section when they go. These things rarely see below the rpm where the stator isn't fully saturated.

Although the magnets are smaller and weaker than on the gs rotor.
 
Mekanix said:
That explains why the stock ones seem to blow the regulating section when they go. These things rarely see below the rpm where the stator isn't fully saturated.

Although the magnets are smaller and weaker than on the gs rotor.
Click to expand...

From the factory, on GS models, the third leg of the stator went through the lighting circuit. When the lights were off, the third leg was not active. (not in the charging circuit)
The bikes were fine with running all day long with the headlight switched off.
The secret to long life with a shunt type charging system is to as close as possible, balance the power draw/consumption/load to the output so that as little amperage as possible needs to be shunted to ground heating up the R/R.
Another solution for longevity of the R/R is to put a double connector on each of the three leads from the
stator so that you can connect a pair of R/R's. The puts each stator phase feeding both R/R's and reduces the load on each R/R by half. My GS1150E was set up that way the last four years I had it. No more R/R problems and no more burned up stators or R/R's.

It would be desirable to know what your stator output amperage is and what your amperage consumption is so you can set up the system to be balanced.
 
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Its the same 180 watt stator as the stock GS. I'd swear I could swap the two.
The RR is very small. Maybe 2" x 2" x 0.5" Which is just enough room for six diodes and a small regulator circuit. No cooling fin's or any way to dissipate heat.

Doubling them up would be an interesting Idea I don't think I've ever seen that done before or considered that as an option.

These things seem to fail exactly like the classic GS's
 
Mekanix said:
Its the same 180 watt stator as the stock GS. I'd swear I could swap the two.
The RR is very small. Maybe 2" x 2" x 0.5" Which is just enough room for six diodes and a small regulator circuit. No cooling fin's or any way to dissipate heat.

Doubling them up would be an interesting Idea I don't think I've ever seen that done before or considered that as an option.

These things seem to fail exactly like the classic GS's
Click to expand...

Doubling up R/R's was a idea I had, so I checked with a electrical engineer friend of mine and he agreed with me, so I made the modification and it worked like a charm. You still need to try to balance output to load, but it does make the situation a bit less critical with less stress on the R/R side of the charging system.
 
earlfor said:
Doubling up R/R's was a idea I had, so I checked with a electrical engineer friend of mine and he agreed with me, so I made the modification and it worked like a charm. You still need to try to balance output to load, but it does make the situation a bit less critical with less stress on the R/R side of the charging system.
Click to expand...




The two SHUNT R/R's operating in parallel work together in unison (literally) and basically just share the power dissipation but because they are only 1/2 current apiece the total power is slightly less (less forward drop in the diodes). So it will operate akin to using a MOSFET R/R. And as a MOSFET R/R does it will marginally stress the stator more.

For $70 get a SH-775 new.
 
posplayr said:
The two SHUNT R/R's operating in parallel work together in unison (literally) and basically just share the power dissipation but because they are only 1/2 current apiece the total power is slightly less (less forward drop in the diodes). So it will operate akin to using a MOSFET R/R. And as a MOSFET R/R does it will marginally stress the stator more.

For $70 get a SH-775 new.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the SH would be the better choice. They were not available at the time I did the modification. My method did stop the "cooking" RR's part of the problem though. Never had to replace another RR,..........or stator for that matter. A side effect of my modification was my charging voltage dropped slightly and my battery longevity increased.
 
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earlfor said:
Yeah, the SH would be the better choice. They were not available at the time I did the modification. My method did stop the "cooking" RR's part of the problem though. Never had to replace another RR,..........or stator for that matter. A side effect of my modification was my charging voltage dropped slightly and my battery longevity increased.
Click to expand...

I'm convinced bigger bikes have bigger stator problems because they run hotter. Since I have always had stator problems due to using Electrosport's stators with their supposed higher output, changing to a MOSFET R/R did not help anything. An oil sprayer confirmed that the stator was getting too hot. After hearing of the existence of a SERIES R/R , I soon found/tested and confirmed the benefits.
 
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