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Charging too well?

  • Thread starter Thread starter tylerhurley94
  • Start date Start date
T

tylerhurley94

Guest
Hi all, at the end of last riding season I discovered my charging system on my '83 GS850 was not working. Over winter, with the help of the stator pages and a new Honda RR from Duaneage, I've replaced the stator and RR. I took multimeter to the bike today and am now worried the new changes are working too well. At idle with light, the battery reads 12.9v, at any rev 4000 rpms or more, it reads 16v to the battery. I'm worried this is too high. Thoughts?
 
Yep, too high charging voltage. Look for problems around the R/R. Might be a wiring issue but could also be the R/R it self. Can you give more detail on how it's wired in?
 
Probably the sense wire connection- so r/r does not "see"battery well. Connect the sense wire direct to battery positive and see if voltage levels off at about 14.5 maximum.
 
Here is a pic of the wiring. The stator is wired directly into the RR, grounded the green tab wire, connected the red wires and black wires into the harness.image1.jpg
 
I realized I had the sense wire from the RR hooked up wrong. I hooked it up to the battery and got 14.5V. Where is the sense wire at on this model? The diagrams I've seen from previous threads shows an orange wire, but I don't see that anywhere on mine. Is it possible to just wire the RR directly to the battery?
 
The sense wire is usually wired to rear brake light switch (this is powered on with ignition), but sometimes this connection gets a poor reading about battery's condition and r/r gets confused. Try it - if voltage is still too high wire the sense direct to battery positive. Its current draw is minuscule.
 
There is no sense wire in the stock configuration. Stock only used a 5 wire R/R while the Honda is a 6 wire system. The black wire is normally tied to a switched 12V source. The O/W wire is a switch source for your model and should be seen at the fuse block. It feeds the ignition system (Coils and Igniter through the kill switch). I'd wire it into a location that's as close to battery voltage as possible. The switched voltage input (Orange wire) into the fuse block would be the ideal location but might be a pain to tap into. That's why some use the brake light switch wire. The only issue you may run into would be excessive voltage losses causing higher voltages at the battery, but you obviously know that now.
 
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I ended up wiring the RR directly to the battery to save the hassle of splicing and extra wiring. Everything seems to be working now. Thanks for all of the help and tutorials!
 
Not sure why it calls for a switched voltage. Just make sure you don't have a battery drain issue when the ignition is off. Maybe Posplayer can shed some light.
 
tylerhurley94 said:
I ended up wiring the RR directly to the battery to save the hassle of splicing and extra wiring. Everything seems to be working now. Thanks for all of the help and tutorials!
Click to expand...

I think the operative words would be "for now".

What wire(s) did you connect directly to the battery?

Obviously, you need to have the R/R output wires connected, how about the sense wire? If you connected the output wire directly, please make sure you have a fuse between the R/R and the battery. If you have the sense wire direct to the battery, be aware there is a slight chance that it might discharge the battery slowly, if the bike is not run for a while. That is why we suggest connecting it to a SWITCHED power source, like the brake light supply.

.
 
If you keep it wired direct like this, best to add inline 2 amp fuse in this connection in case wiring gets shorted out.This doesn't need to be done ASAP, but put it on your to do list.
 
No, but it might prevent worst stuff! The sense wires that I measured both drew .0004 amp with bike ignition off. Yes, that was a decimal point followed by three "0"
 
tom203 said:
Probably the sense wire connection- so r/r does not "see"battery well. Connect the sense wire direct to battery positive and see if voltage levels off at about 14.5 maximum.
Click to expand...

Yes, this.

Don't worry about it draining the battery, it won't. I've been doing it on several bikes for years and years.

A better but more difficult solution is to get rid of the voltage drop between the switched lead your sense wire is hooked to.
 
I've installed a few of these Honda R/Rs and used a relay for the sense wire. If you already have a relay powering heated grips and/or the coils or whatever, just add the sense wire to the mix.
 
bwringer said:
I've installed a few of these Honda R/Rs and used a relay for the sense wire. If you already have a relay powering heated grips and/or the coils or whatever, just add the sense wire to the mix.
Click to expand...

If you have a relay, then that is the best place for a sense wire.
 
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