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Choke Issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShadowFocus603
  • Start date Start date
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ShadowFocus603

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Is there any way to tighten the action of the choke? IE if I pull the choke on is there a way to keep it on so I don't have to hold the choke, hit the start button, and hold the clutch with my knee? I rebuilt the carbs awhile back and the bike runs beautifully (full sonic cleaning new orings etc) and the only issue I have had since is that the choke moves so freely it will not stay where I set it for the life of me. Thanks.
 
Remove the switch on the clutch, or replace the choke cable. I would do both, but that's just me. The choke knob is supposed to stay up when you pull it and turn it to the right, if it won't it's worn out.
 
Try twisting black base thing (under knob) clockwise- might stick more. I finally just put some fine sawdust on cable and it stuck nicely. But I'd lose the clutch safety switch anyways- less switches the better!
 
ShadowFocus603 said:
Is there any way to tighten the action of the choke? IE if I pull the choke on is there a way to keep it on so I don't have to hold the choke, hit the start button, and hold the clutch with my knee? .
Click to expand...

Wow, a new technique.

The standard choke procedure for me, for years on end, was:

Left hand pulls in clutch. Right hand pulls up on choke. Right elbow hits start button. Worked for me.

You will find varied opinions on bypassing the clutch interlock. Mine is that it's a really bad idea, because it only takes one mistake to toss your bike onto the ground, perhaps with you under it. A rather rude way to start an outing. Leaving that interlock is like admitting that you're a fallible human.
 
If you have the center pull choke then you should be able to tighten the choke by doing this:

1: Pull the choke up
2: pull up the rubber boot until it comes off the ring underneath
3: turn the knurled band that was under the boot clockwise to tighten resistance

By turning the knurled band clockwise you're closing in the friction tabs at the top of the assembly. The bottom ring closest to the cable is to lock the assembly into the steering stem.

Here's a pic of the assembly to make it easier to understand:

be528.jpg


With the top ring completely unscrewed you can see the slotted cone top that adds friction. As you tighten down the top ring it collapses the cone and adds friction:
23k9.jpg


If the above doesn't work then you need a new choke cable.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the replies. I have a new clutch cable coming and the choke cable is new to me but off of a used bike so I'm sure a new one is in order but in the meantime I'll use some of the advice here and see if it helps at all.
 
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