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Chucks simplified spreadsheet

chuck hahn

chuck hahn

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
Tools required::

Pen, Paper, Straight edge

Process::

1.. Measure and record the current gaps on all valves
2.. If the gap say .03 ( as in the example for INTAKE #2 ) then youll
need to INCREASE that valves gap by .02...record that as noted in
the example. Record what amount of change you need for each
valve.
3.. Pull each valves shim and note what size it is..Measure it with
calipers because wear may have it different from the printed
size on it..VERIFY IT.
4.. Put the shim back in after noting what size it is on the sheet
under CURRENT SHIM..Do this to all valves.
5.. Now you can look at what each cylinder CURRENT GAP and CURRENT
SHIM is and decide if the gap is good or bad. Also this will tell you
can shuffle around.
6.. Once you have shuffled shims around, record which shim is in
each bucket under NEW SHIM.
7.. Remeasure each valve gap and record that under NEW GAP.

As you can see in the example on the sheet I posted, INTAKE 1 measured .05 ( requires no adjustment) and the CURRENT SHIM was 2.75.

So I made the notations as follows::
The CURRENT GAP was .05
The CURRENT SHIM was 2.75
The change in gap that I needed was 0
I DID NOT insttall a NEW SHIM ( the 2.75 was perfect )
And my NEW GAP is still at .05

Intake #2 was a different story. I measured and made the following notations:

The CURRENT GAP was at .03 ( It needs .02 MORE gap )
The CURRENT SHIM was a 2.72..so this tells me I need to use a 2.70 to achieve that .05 gap.
Installed a 2.70 shim and noted it under NEW SHIM and remeasured.
Verified the gap is now at .05 and noted that under NEW GAP.



Just fill in the bike model, the mileage, and date at the bottom and put it in with the rest of that bikes papers. ALSO NOTE..The NEW SHIM will tell you what shim is in each bucket next time you do an adjustment..just look at the sheet under NEW SHIM and thats what your final adjustment shim was when you finished the job.

ALWAYS CHECK SHIMS ON A DEAD COLD ENGINE


001-62.jpg

002-59.jpg
 
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very good, simple enough to understand and keeps a good record of adjustments for comparison when doing future shim checks
 
Simplicity is the key..least that was my thinking when i came up with it. Keep It Simple...Stupid!!!!!
 
Hopefully one has enough shims on hand to get the ideal gap.Then it's compromise the gap or order shims.
Good winter job,don't want to wait on shims during riding season.
 
I check mine in the winter or first thing in the spring when it just starts to show signs of warming up again. Get with Ray at the shim club here and just swap out if he has what you need before you buy any from Suzuki.
 
It's nice like that i agree. But, trying to keep that paper for a long period of time can cause it to wrinkle, tear, smudge (oil/gas/water), become lost, whatever. I'd much rather use the paper like that to record the information as I'm doing the work (and I do) and then put it into the computer for safekeeping and reference back to later.
 
Cowboy..I keep my insurance and registration in a zip lock baggie under the seat and thats where the sheet goes as well. Ive never had one get wet or any of the papers get damaged under the seat.

Could use the glove compartment as well.

Remeber the bikes that had the velcroed bag for the owners manual under a side cover?? You could make an arrangement like that as well. Plenty of hiding space behind one.
 
tkent02 said:
Man, you guys sure do like to complicate things.
Click to expand...

Indeed.

I prefer to just

1. Measure gap.

2. Is it < 0.4 (i.e., smallest feeler)?

2(a) - Yes, pull shim and replace with next size down.

2(b) - No. Sweet! Let it ride.

If you don't have any spare shims, then you can go further to:

3. Is it >0.8?

3.(a) - No. Then move along.
3. (b) - Yes. Cool, check that shim to see if it is worth shuffling, note the size.

Spreadsheets seem to be overkill when the math ends up with use a shim that's .05 thinner, or do nothing. Being able to swap/shuffle can help, but it not that complicated. In the example, I would not adjust a valve gap to .05. Just swap to the next size down to get in the .07 - .08 range.
 
BUT the closer you can get them to being all the same..and i shoot for the .05MM mid range..the better balanced the cylinders will be across the board.
 
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