• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Clatter/chatter when warm

  • Thread starter Thread starter huntb
  • Start date Start date
H

huntb

Guest
Good news is that I finally got my bike running after a month! However, I've ridden it a couple of times now and once the bike is warm it gets VERY clattery. I thought it was an exhaust leak because I saw exhaust in front of my face last night and tightened the header bolts. I replaced the gaskets two weeks ago so I know it's not bad gaskets. I also readjusted the cam tensioner within the last couple of weeks. It sounds absolutely terrible. Does anyone know what this is from? Also, this isn't just at idle, it is at all speeds/RPMs

- Ben
 
......"I also readjusted the cam tensioner within the last couple of weeks. It sounds absolutely terrible. Does anyone know what this is from? Also, this isn't just at idle, "

Humor us- what procedure did you use to readjust cam chain tensioner ? Please stop running it until you find problem. If cam chain jumps sprockets, bad news arrives ASAP!
 
The procedure Steve gave me. Same one in the manual I believe.

I'm also wondering if it's my drive chain. I haven't had time to clean or inspect it and sprockets and I don't remember if the noise followed speed or rpm
 
So after resetting plunger and reinstalling tensioner in engine,you backed the set screw off 1/4 turn and tightened locknut on set screw making sure that set screw stayed backed off from plunger?
 
I think I need to bump this one up again. Bike sounds beautiful until warm and then below 4-5k rpm the clatter is there. I've checked the set screw tom203 and it was backed off 1/4 turn.

The other thing I notice is that it goes away when I'm not moving and as soon as I start to ride away from a stop it comes back. So to summarize:

- ONLY when the bike is warmed up

- Only below 4-5k rpm and not at idle

- Valves had been adjusted and are in spec

- Cam chain tensioner installed properly (unless it is mechanically not functioning properly but it seemed fine when I had it out)

- Sounds like marbles under the cam cover, but who knows, maybe that's not where its coming from. Screwdriver to ear check doesn't work very well
 
How's your oil level? Mine gets a bit clattery if it's down a little.
 
I wouldn't run it till you get it sorted out. I had a similar problem with my DRZ400 years ago and dropped a valve which got real expensive real fast. $1000 and 2 months of me rebuilding after work during the week it was finally running tip top again. Checked your valve clearances lately? Might be good to pull your valve cover and take a peek at that cam chain anyway.
 
Uncamitzi said:
How's your oil level? Mine gets a bit clattery if it's down a little.
Click to expand...

Just under the "F" line. Looks good.

Jeepfreak81 said:
I wouldn't run it till you get it sorted out. I had a similar problem with my DRZ400 years ago and dropped a valve which got real expensive real fast. $1000 and 2 months of me rebuilding after work during the week it was finally running tip top again. Checked your valve clearances lately? Might be good to pull your valve cover and take a peek at that cam chain anyway.
Click to expand...

Valve clearances were checked two weeks ago. 6 if 8 were tight and I've got them all in spec now
 
Alright, I just checked valve clearances again and 6 of 8 are now loose (> 0.4"). The engine is still a little warm from riding today, I probably shut it off an hour to an hour and a half ago. Is it normal for the valves to be loose when warm? I'll check again when it totally cools off but this has me slightly worried. How could they have been in spec a couple weeks ago and now they are loose?
 
huntb said:
Alright, I just checked valve clearances again and 6 of 8 are now loose (> 0.4"). The engine is still a little warm from riding today, I probably shut it off an hour to an hour and a half ago. Is it normal for the valves to be loose when warm? I'll check again when it totally cools off but this has me slightly worried. How could they have been in spec a couple weeks ago and now they are loose?
Click to expand...

The spec calls for clearances to be 0.0012"- 0.0031" (0.03 - 0.08mm). What you posted makes no sense.

I generally set all mine on the upper side of the spec, or a little beyond it (0.07-0.10mm) and have never had an issue doing so. Also, the engine has to be stone cold for your measurements to have any value. Let it sit overnight and measure them, looking for the above mentioned clearances.
 
Sorry... I meant 0.004

We build CNC grinding machines at work that have tolerances around 0.00005" so to me .001" sounds like 0.1". I should be better with decimals. Alas... electrical engineers.

I'll check tomorrow after work
 
I had a '83 GS1100E that was really noisy when warm due to a worn clutch basket. On a cold start, no noise at all.
 
Just used basscliffs trick to tighten the clutch hub springs. Clutch nut seems fine. Very tight when I removed it. The noise is still there. I've been observing it more though and the clatter only comes at cruising speeds starting about about 2.5-3k rpm and going away at about 4.5-5.5k rpm but it is very loud and sounds like something is going to fall apart. Other than those engine speeds, the noise is non-existent. I noticed that a few of the valves have loosened up since I've done the adjustment so I guess another valve adjustment is in order. I'm starting to really wonder what this could be. I also raised the jet needles today by about .05" which seems to have given it more mid range power. I thought it could have been detonating but no. Seems like I've tried almost everything. Bike runs VERY strong.
 
huntb said:
Just used basscliffs trick to tighten the clutch hub springs. Clutch nut seems fine. Very tight when I removed it. The noise is still there. I've been observing it more though and the clatter only comes at cruising speeds starting about about 2.5-3k rpm and going away at about 4.5-5.5k rpm but it is very loud and sounds like something is going to fall apart. Other than those engine speeds, the noise is non-existent. I noticed that a few of the valves have loosened up since I've done the adjustment so I guess another valve adjustment is in order. I'm starting to really wonder what this could be. I also raised the jet needles today by about .05" which seems to have given it more mid range power. I thought it could have been detonating but no. Seems like I've tried almost everything. Bike runs VERY

strong.
Click to expand...

Are you certain the noise is coming from the right side (clutch side)? Instead of listening, have you tried putting your hands on both sides of the engine? I've found a lot of times that my ears deceive me as to where a noise is coming from, but my hands can feel it and never lie. I'm thinking loose starter clutch or broken starter clutch set screws (left side behind the stator). That will cause a horrible clanking at the rpm's you're observing and also sometimes on start up.
It can make a horrible noise, clank, thump, clank that is so loud it seems like it's everywhere on the lower engine case.
 
Last edited:
If I honestly had to pinpoint it I would say upper engine but it's really everywhere. I'm going to adjust the valves again tonight and pull the cover over the flywheel so see if I can see broken or loose screws. I'm taking it into work now because there are some motorcycle gurus there I want to listen to the noise. Hopefully it doesn't hurt to drive it one last time before I pull it apart.
 
huntb said:
If I honestly had to pinpoint it I would say upper engine but it's really everywhere. I'm going to adjust the valves again tonight and pull the cover over the flywheel so see if I can see broken or loose screws. I'm taking it into work now because there are some motorcycle gurus there I want to listen to the noise. Hopefully it doesn't hurt to drive it one last time before I pull it apart.
Click to expand...

The set screws I was talking about in the starter clutch are on the left side of the engine. The stator is mounted on the crankshaft end and between the stator and the engine case is the starter clutch. You can not see the clutch without removing the stator and to remove the stator, you will need a special tool. Do NOT use a gear puller and dont even think about banging on a stator with a hammer.

To adjust valves, the engine can not be run for the previous 24 hours. It must be absolutely cold.

Check for a loose cam cap when you check the valve clearances. I had one work loose some years ago and it made a hell of a racket.
 
I pulled off the stator cover only to realize the the M16 bolt I had was M16x2.0 instead of M16x1.5 (I'm not buying a special tool when I can get an M16 bolt, a washer and a hunk of steel tubing to use as a slide hammer) but I think I may have pinpointed it to the cam chain tensioner. I started hearing the noise as I was revving the engine. When I was using my screwdriver stethoscope I saw that the chain tensioner handle was going crazy so I tightened it and reset the set screw and the noise was gone. After riding to work today though the noise came back. I'm thinking about resetting the chain tensioner and locking the set screw to keep it from backing out but what would cause this?
 
Don't tighten the set screw all the way in and lock it if that's what you meant! That could do some real damage. I would take the tensioner off and take a look at piston and spring and make sure everything is moving smoothly. You need to reset the tensioner too, just follow the manual and reinstall properly. terrylee
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top