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Clean carbs now bike wont start......

  • Thread starter Thread starter turkeyroll60
  • Start date Start date
The carbs are as disassembled as they are gonna get. The long metal thing in the pic is definitely not the jet needle. I just read about boiling carbs in lemon juice. Anyone here ever do that?
 
What do you mean "carb jet needle"? I have removed the jet needle that is part of the diaphragm assembly if that is what you are referring to. The needle jet was also removed from the carburetor body as well. The part in the pic is not listed in my clymers manual so either I'm stupid or you are using some sort of slang to make me feel stupid. It had no o rings and appeared to me to really need more force to remove it than would safely allow for a safe disassembley of the carb. I respect yours and everyone else's knowledge and that's why I come here but respect is a two way street.
 
turkeyroll60 said:
What do you mean "carb jet needle"? I have removed the jet needle that is part of the diaphragm assembly if that is what you are referring to. The needle jet was also removed from the carburetor body as well. The part in the pic is not listed in my clymers manual so either I'm stupid or you are using some sort of slang to make me feel stupid. It had no o rings and appeared to me to really need more force to remove it than would safely allow for a safe disassembley of the carb. I respect yours and everyone else's knowledge and that's why I come here but respect is a two way street.
Click to expand...

No one is trying to disrespect, promise. Just trying to make sure that bike gets running right with a happy owner!
 
Citric acid in lemon juice will turn them a very dark grey and its a biitch to get them looking decent again.
 
turkeyroll60 said:
What do you mean "carb jet needle"? I have removed the jet needle that is part of the diaphragm assembly if that is what you are referring to. The needle jet was also removed from the carburetor body as well. The part in the pic is not listed in my clymers manual so either I'm stupid or you are using some sort of slang to make me feel stupid. It had no o rings and appeared to me to really need more force to remove it than would safely allow for a safe disassembley of the carb. I respect yours and everyone else's knowledge and that's why I come here but respect is a two way street.
Click to expand...

No one on here has any interest in making you look or appear to look an idiot. They are just trying to help you solve your bikes bad running and you in cleaning your carbs properly.

Manuals show you the factory way when the bike was less than a week old and a mechanic that has been trained by Suzuki just refreshes his knowledge from. This is why most mechanics today in shops wont touch a bike that's over 5 years old as stuff breaks, is hard to get hold of and cant be turned around in a day to make money from.

The picture you posted showed a part the people recognised as still in situe and are being concerned. Nothing more.
 
I dont think thats the needle either.. There's zero taper to it for one.

I read you picked these carbs up off of eBay or are these the ones that came with the bike?? Just trying to clarify and eliminate the possibility that the carbs you have there are correct for the bike. I don't know the lil twins all that well but I don't recall ever seeing...whatever sort of pickup tube that is...in any of the GS carbs I've run across. But, like I said I've not seen them all.
 
Also, you'll want to take some wire, like speaker wire or such (multi strand copper wire preferably) and strip an end and use just a nice long strand to help clean out any of the crud in the tiny holes. The copper is soft enough not to damage the brass or Alu. Some spray carb cleaner is usefull as well, as the red tube is good for getting down in some ports to blast them out after the dip softens up deposits (but is NOT a suitable replacement for actually stripping and dipping ;) ) but be mindful to spray away from your face and wear some eye protection. Some of those ports will come right back around toward your face and carb spray in the eye is indescribably painful.
 
Ok....first off let me apologize for showing my frustration in my previous post. I worked like a dog at the left carb with spray carb cleaner and qtips and safety glasses. I sprayed and dug so much crap out of the fuel outlet side of the carb. I can't believe such a small hole could hide so much gunk! I would say this carb is at about 90% since I ran out of spray cleaner. The passages shoot a nice straight stream of carb cleaner when I spray into it now. The right carb is apart and soaking in the cleaning pail since 10:30 last night. I am really wanting to try soaking them in boiling lemon juice for about 20 mins. I have read a lot of positive reviews on it but don't want to damage the bodies of the carbs with the citric acid. I humbly open myself up for any constructive criticism you all may have. Here are some pics if an almost clean left carb:

IMAG1006.jpg


IMAG0999.jpg


IMAG1000.jpg
 
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How come you did not remove the Needle Jet ? It's critical to clean all the carb parts, and inside the carb body orifices.

Please check that link I provided above. It details what you need to remove before dipping.
 
turkeyroll60 said:
Ok....first off let me apologize for showing my frustration in my previous post. I worked like a dog at the left carb with spray carb cleaner and qtips and safety glasses. I sprayed and dug so much crap out of the fuel outlet side of the carb. I can't believe such a small hole could hide so much gunk! I would say this carb is at about 90% since I ran out of spray cleaner. The passages shoot a nice straight stream of carb cleaner when I spray into it now. The right carb is apart and soaking in the cleaning pail since 10:30 last night. I am really wanting to try soaking them in boiling lemon juice for about 20 mins. I have read a lot of positive reviews on it but don't want to damage the bodies of the carbs with the citric acid. I humbly open myself up for any constructive criticism you all may have. Here are some pics if an almost clean left carb:

IMAG1006.jpg


IMAG0999.jpg


IMAG1000.jpg
Click to expand...
Yes you need to remove that needle jet, when you get it out you will understand why it has to come out to be cleaned . you should be able to take a small brass punch and small hammer and tap it out of the carb body,
 
hjfisk said:
Yes you need to remove that needle jet, when you get it out you will understand why it has to come out to be cleaned . you should be able to take a small brass punch and small hammer and tap it out of the carb body,
Click to expand...

Or wooden dowel.
 
I tried to get it out but was afraid of damaging it by pounding on it. That thing is really stuffed in there. Plus i was afraid if I actually got it out I wouldnt get it back in the right way without more pounding. The other set of carbs that were originally on the bike had the needle jets pressed so far into the float bowls they wouldnt budge. I was able to get one out but gouged it in the process. A look down the inside of the tube shows no debris and all the little holes are clean. I picked up a can of valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner today and plan to finish off both carbs tonight.
 
turkeyroll60 said:
I tried to get it out but was afraid of damaging it by pounding on it. That thing is really stuffed in there. Plus i was afraid if I actually got it out I wouldnt get it back in the right way without more pounding. The other set of carbs that were originally on the bike had the needle jets pressed so far into the float bowls they wouldnt budge. I was able to get one out but gouged it in the process. A look down the inside of the tube shows no debris and all the little holes are clean. I picked up a can of valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner today and plan to finish off both carbs tonight.
Click to expand...

Soak it in PB Blaster for a few days. If it doesn't come out with a wooden dowel at that point, soak it for a few more days. It'll go back in more easily when everything is clean.
 
Sorry to beat a horse in the ground but, break them down all the way means all the way, emulsion tubes everything short of the butterfly's, what kind of carb cleaner are you using? I've had the best luck with Berrymans chem dip and its not real expensive. You must blow out the passages afterwards, with carb cleaner and then air after a good hot wash from dipping. No-ones beating you up, its just tough to watch people assume they aren't that bad because someone else did some work on them, pretend you found them in the bottom of a dumpster next to a half eaten hot pocket and start from scratch.
You'll feel the better for it when it roars to life properly, otherwise you may get it to start after an improper cleaning and then be wondering if its jets or other has issues when it still the first issue.
 
turkeyroll60 said:
I tried to get it out but was afraid of damaging it by pounding on it. That thing is really stuffed in there. Plus i was afraid if I actually got it out I wouldnt get it back in the right way without more pounding. The other set of carbs that were originally on the bike had the needle jets pressed so far into the float bowls they wouldnt budge. I was able to get one out but gouged it in the process. A look down the inside of the tube shows no debris and all the little holes are clean. I picked up a can of valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner today and plan to finish off both carbs tonight.
Click to expand...

If you look on the carb parts diagram of those carbs there is a o-ring on that needle jet tube Part # 18 in this diagram http://www.babbittsonline.com/suzuk...GS450ET_(1982)/CARBURETOR/02520011/5602520013
 
All parts are cleaned and I set the float height at 24mm. I bench synced then put the carbs back on and it fired up! idled perfectly at 1000 rpm. I changed the oil, put new plugs in and dumped some seafoam in a fresh tank of techron. I went for a nice little ride and its a smooth acceleration with no hiccups or stalling. At one straight away I hit 55mph and it had more to give but i wasn't willing so I eased off. Only problem is about halfway into my tour of the neighborhood, I came to a stop sign and the idle hung at about 3000 rpm and wouldn't come down until I eased off on the idle adjustment screw. The air mixture screws are about one and a quarter turns out from bottom. I really made sure the intake boots were nice and tight and the air-box was sealed and cleaned. I'm guessing a vacuum sync is in order next. But the good thing is she lives and so far I survived my first carb rebuild!
 
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