Cleaning carbs...need some input

[qwqb]

Even if your o-rings look OK, I think it would still be a good idea to get them replaced with new ones. You can get a new set of them from cycleorings.com for a very reasonable price, and have the peace of mind they that are doing their job correctly!

 

[82Shafty]

Even if your o-rings look OK, I think it would still be a good idea to get them replaced with new ones. You can get a new set of them from cycleorings.com for a very reasonable price, and have the peace of mind they that are doing their job correctly!

That was my first rookie mistake, assuming that because they looked ok they were ok, when in fact, they weren't. After replacing all of them, then the bike ran correctly.

 

[Steve]

That was my first rookie mistake, assuming that because they looked ok they were ok, when in fact, they weren't. ...

I know you are talking about o-rings, but the same thing applies to the carbs, themselves. Too many times, people will drop the float bowls, spritz around some carb cleaner until what they see looks clean. Then then pronounce the carbs "clean" and put the bowls back on. Only after doing that for three or four times do they finally come to the realization that what really needs to be cleaned can't be seen. From any angle. Even with good lights. You just have to dip them to soak the crud out of the inside of the carb.

.

 

[Krooozn]

I think that I will either open the carbs back up, pull out all the pieces and then soak the bodies in the cleaner, or else take it to my local shop and have them clean/rebuild them....it really is more than I think I can do.....but who can say.....I might get brave and try it again.....I was so very careful not to lose any parts, not to run the paperclip into the brass fittings, and clean every single opening that I could find.....but now I am afraid that I haven't done enough...or done it right......anyway......I'll have to try and decide what to do in the next couple days....if I wanted to get a rebuild kit for my carbs, how do I know what carbs I have? They say something like Mikumi or something to that effect on the tops......they look kind of like the ones pictured in the tutorial, but not exactly.....

Sorry for the rambling and the constant questions, but one can't learn if they don't ask.....

Thanx....Anita:dancing: (I just love these smileys!)

 

[Theo]

I think that I will either open the carbs back up, pull out all the pieces and then soak the bodies in the cleaner, or else take it to my local shop and have them clean/rebuild them....it really is more than I think I can do.....but who can say.....I might get brave and try it again.....I was so very careful not to lose any parts, not to run the paperclip into the brass fittings, and clean every single opening that I could find.....but now I am afraid that I haven't done enough...or done it right......anyway......I'll have to try and decide what to do in the next couple days....if I wanted to get a rebuild kit for my carbs, how do I know what carbs I have? They say something like Mikumi or something to that effect on the tops......they look kind of like the ones pictured in the tutorial, but not exactly.....

Sorry for the rambling and the constant questions, but one can't learn if they don't ask.....

Thanx....Anita:dancing: (I just love these smileys!)

You know it's not that bad rebuilding the carbs. Honestly I had no idea what a carb was nor what one looked like until I got this bike. I was very nervous tearing into them but I just followed the rebuild tutorial to a T and it was actually quite painless. Just get an egg carton and put each part you take off in it. Label the spot on the egg carton where you took the part off so you know where it goes when you are putting it back together. Just do one carb at a time so you don't mix anything up and it seems a little less intimidating. Also if you do feel like you are over your head, I hear chef1366 rebuilds carbs.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=148764

He would more than likely do a better job than your local mechanic. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
-Theo

 

[82Shafty]

I think that I will either open the carbs back up, pull out all the pieces and then soak the bodies in the cleaner, or else take it to my local shop and have them clean/rebuild them....it really is more than I think I can do.....but who can say.....I might get brave and try it again.....I was so very careful not to lose any parts, not to run the paperclip into the brass fittings, and clean every single opening that I could find.....but now I am afraid that I haven't done enough...or done it right......anyway......I'll have to try and decide what to do in the next couple days....if I wanted to get a rebuild kit for my carbs, how do I know what carbs I have? They say something like Mikumi or something to that effect on the tops......they look kind of like the ones pictured in the tutorial, but not exactly.....

Sorry for the rambling and the constant questions, but one can't learn if they don't ask.....

Thanx....Anita:dancing: (I just love these smileys!)

Setting carb float height accurately is also very, very important.

 

[Guest]

Take a bunch of pics showing all the carb details before & while you tear them down... kinda like a visual back-up plan. Best to maintain all the inards specific to each carb body.

I usually take a lot of pics while the rack is still hooked up on the bike to document where/which/how the throttle & choke cables are attached. Remember how the clutch cable is routed too.

Get an carb o-ring rebuild kit from Robert at http://www.cycleorings.com/ get new manifold intake inlet o-rings too.

Pick up some new OEM float bowl gaskets & rubber plugs, along with a new bucket of carb dip (available at most auto stores) & several cans of carb cleaner spray. Ready to go!!

 

[Steve]

... Just get an egg carton and put each part you take off in it. Label the spot on the egg carton where you took the part off so you know where it goes when you are putting it back together. ...

All good information, but you might find that the egg carton "holes" are a bit small. I use disposable muffin tins.

You can get a 2-pack of 6-mufin tins at your local grocery store for a few bucks or go to a dollar store and get the same thing for ... well ... a dollar. :-\\\

.

 

[tejasmud]

Forgot to put your slides back in the carburetors using muffin tins, or so it seems.

 

[Steve]

Forgot to put your slides back in the carburetors using muffin tins, or so it seems.

Nah, just a happy coincidence in timing. I was in the middle of rebuilding another set of carbs when somebody posted, requesting something about a complete rack of carbs. I moved the stripped-down carb bodies from the foreground, set the rack down and did not bother to empty the tins. :-\\\

.

 

[Larry D]

As long as we're talking about cleaning carbs.......

I need to get to the 34mm carbs on the GK, but, it's really cold in the garage. Is it okay to bring the can of Berryman in the house to let the carbs soak ? The Berrymans doesn't work very well when it's cold......

 

[Griffin]

As long as we're talking about cleaning carbs.......

I need to get to the 34mm carbs on the GK, but, it's really cold in the garage. Is it okay to bring the can of Berryman in the house to let the carbs soak ? The Berrymans doesn't work very well when it's cold......

Yup, just put the lid on it before you bring it into the house, and don't open it up until you're back in the garage.

I wouldn't rinse the parts off in the kitchen sink, though. You might stain the (not quite) stainless steel (or porcelin, I forget which you have).

By the way, did you see the manual I dropped off the other day?

 

[Steve]

Is it okay to bring the can of Berryman in the house ...

I am not aware of any health issues by bringing it inside, it's just a matter of whether you can handle the odor.
However, if you keep the can closed, the chance of smelling up the place will be minimized.

I bought a new can of Berryman's a couple of months ago and noticed that it had a considerably different odor. The first can was a rather permeating sweet smell, one I associate with the smell of walking into an old machine shop. The new can does not smell bad, but it's more like varnish. Seems to work well, it just smells different. For what it's worth, a couple of years ago, I helped another GSer with his carbs. He had gotten a can of Gunk brand dip before seeing all the recommendations for Berryman's on this site. It also smelled like varnish, but more like rancid varnish. Worked fine, just smelled nasty.

.

 

[Guest]

I am not aware of any health issues by bringing it inside, it's just a matter of whether you can handle the odor.
However, if you keep the can closed, the chance of smelling up the place will be minimized.

I bought a new can of Berryman's a couple of months ago and noticed that it had a considerably different odor. The first can was a rather permeating sweet smell, one I associate with the smell of walking into an old machine shop. The new can does not smell bad, but it's more like varnish. Seems to work well, it just smells different. For what it's worth, a couple of years ago, I helped another GSer with his carbs. He had gotten a can of Gunk brand dip before seeing all the recommendations for Berryman's on this site. It also smelled like varnish, but more like rancid varnish. Worked fine, just smelled nasty.

.

You might have the "reduced v.o.c. version? They came out with some of that stuff for California...maybe it's sold elsewhere, too? Take a close look at the can.

 

[Larry D]

Thanks.

Yes Brett, found the manual......today. It was a little snow covered, but, undamaged. I have a little engine painting to do and then it's reassembly time. Got the frame all painted and it turned out pretty good.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Steve]

Take a close look at the can.

Right now, that can a just about 1000 miles away from me.

I should be a bit closer to it in about three weeks.

.

 

[Guest]

Y'all are paint huffers. :dancing:

 

[Krooozn]

Ok....before I post this...I did do a search and couldn't really find anything that answered my question....so I hope that no one gets mad at me for not doing my research first.....

I was looking closer at my carbs last night as they are still sitting on my work bench and I just can't for the life of me find any mixture/air adjustment screws on the darn thing.....I looked on the engine side of the carbs, I looked on the air box side....I looked on the side of the carbs, I looked in between the two carbs and with no luck at all.....I just can't seem to locate the screws....I feel certain that it has to have them, or I would at least think it had to have them....I asked my stepdad who is a pretty good shade tree mechanic, and he said that he has seen carbs that have no adjustments on them.....which this would be a first for me....I have even looked for plugs/caps to remove and still don't see a thing.....am I just missing something here....or does my carb setup have no means of adjustment for the mixture/air? The carbs on my bike are the dual Mikuni's....and they kind of look like the ones that are being used in the rebuild article, but they don't look exactly like them.....mine have no air screws located on the neck of the carb like the picture shows....

Hope this makes sense to someone and they can explain to me just where to look for these elusive screws.....because I want to do a good job in cleaning these.....and would like to replace the o-rings....but heck...can't replace what you can't find....

Thanx...Anita ray:

 

[doctorgonzo]

They hid the from you. You do have the CV carbs (on an 81) look at the rebuild pictorial and note whet are supposed to be. You'll find them there on your set, hidden under a plug that has to be removed.

 

[Theo]

Check out a thread I started a little whiles ago asking the same thing.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152166

Make sure to read Chef's recommendations on how to get them out, it worked like a charm. Good luck.
-Theo