• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

cleaning engine casing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Denman2112
  • Start date Start date
D

Denman2112

Guest
Hello everyone,
Ive been seeing restored bikes that have the engine casings cylinders and heads nice and bright like they just came out of the factory,does anyone know how there doing this ? Ive seen plenty of stuff including oven cleaner,not sure about useing that though.As always any suggestions would be great.

Thanks
 
regarding aluminum side casing polishing, heres a thread thats very helpful...you'll need to remove the original clear coat. Aircraft paint remover spray available from autozone works fine.


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?240084-How-to-clean-up-the-aluminum-cases&highlight=polishing+aluminum



If you're cylinder color is silver, and you want to find a matching paint, everything you need to know is right here......

You will need to completely degrease the engine casing before painting,

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ng-Paint-info-any-help-appreciated&highlight=
 
Last edited:
Your post this morning inspired me to give polishing the rear drum hub on my Yamaha DT400C Enduro a go. A friend of mine lent me his buffing wheel, and I had a Harbor freight headlight repair kit in the shed. So with some water, a handheld power drill, the headlight kit, then finally the cotton buffing wheel with some white polish....here's the before and after..

Before...


After



The whole job didn't take an hour, and the headlight kit is a whopping 13 bucks, and I only used 2 of the pads in the kit. The buffing wheel, that was a loaner, but can be had for, I think around $100 bucks at harbor freight.

Hope this inspires you.....
 
Casings, cylinders and heads get that clean from media blasting when the engine is completely disassembled
 
I am in the process of restoring a GS650E and am about to start on the engine cleanup. You can see my previous attempt here on a GS1000S.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?209217-1980-GS1000S-Reluctant-Rebuild/page3 Post #98

First off, to remove the majority of the road grim and oil off the engine I use some form of Simple Green or an Orange Citrus cleaner degreaser in a spray bottle, after application, I power wash it with an electric pressure washer, usually around 1500 PSI max and try not to spray too close to the exhaust or inlet ports even though I've installed caps inside them and sealed them, water still finds it way in there.

Gas powered pressure washers are usually too powerful and will force water past the seals and gaskets, unless you are going to tear the motor down right away I'd steer clear of those.

Easier to do if you remove the engine and it only takes another hour or so once the Fuel tank, carbs etc. are off.

Use a fine stainless or steel wire brush to get into the fins to loosen any corrosion or debris, also a stiff nylon bristle brush can work as well.

As far as painting, it's better to disassemble the engine to do it properly or should I say thoroughly and another vote for VHT SP127 Universal Aluminum as it's about as close as you can get.

As far as polishing engine cases which you need to do something with them after repainting the engine here is a good overview from Caswells.

http://www.caswellcanada.ca/shop/userfiles/buffing booklet(1).pdf

Good luck and post some pictures to show us how it turned out.

David
 
The process your probably seeing is called vapor blasting. Its amazing. Check this one out, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqHcSVLB9fw then search a couple more. Big, flat surfaces are fairly easy to do but when you see this process and you want perfection this is the way to go. Its not cheap but in my opinion, it looks better than new.
 
If you do media blast it be SURE to thoroughly clean it, the media is incredibly abrasive. Run the parts through the dishwasher a few times while the spouse is out....
 
Back
Top