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cleaning engine without removing it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter growler
  • Start date Start date
G

growler

Guest
I was talking with some friends about removing the engine and cleaning it thoroughly, then possibly painting it. Everyone told me not to take the engine out if you don't need to, and that I could clean it just fine with it still mounted.

I'm not sure where to begin in the cleaning process. It's mostly oil and grime. Here are a few photos (including the valve cover gasket seepage that I will be replacing when I do the valve clearances):

Where should I start?

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I am glad this was posted and am looking for some posts regarding experience in this. I gave up on painting mine because I haven't figured out a real good way to do this without tearing the whole thing out and down.
 
Captain obvious here...Gunk engine degreaser, a stiff bristled brush, and lots of elbow grease. May take several applications.
 
It looks like a previous owner spray bombed the engine with flat black.....something.

You might have to remove the engine, use a chemical stripper, rinse, scrub, degrease, then repaint to make it look nice again.
 
One of your exhaust studs is making it's way out, you need to address that. As for cleaning, scrub, rinse & repeat
 
I've always lacked the diligence to put a real show finish on a street bike. The best I have done as far as getting a good start is oven cleaner. Let it set for awhile, hose it off, let it dry some and do it again. Nothing left but stains. Most of those engine degreasers are just basically kerosene, I think. Much cheaper. I've used diesel as well.
 
I would start with a new valve cover gasket or you are wasting your time. Simple green on a warm engine with stiff brush works well.

V
 
Yes, obviously I would replace the valve cover gasket and then deep clean everything. Just was wondering if there were any other tips.

Stiff brushes, Gunk, wd40, elbow grease. Got it.
 
It may seems obvious but I am a mechanic; whenever I do a detail or painting or the like it goes very bad; very, very bad.

Once I do the cleaning any thoughts on prep? I have a can of VHT header paint staring me in the face. I really want to do a nice job, or the reverse of what I normally do. BTW whenever I install headers on my race cars I would slather them in ATF and for some reason the finish ends up lasting. Got the tip from a PSCA racer.
 
I get Oil Eater at Costco. They don't always have it but I just got some. It is very effective and not at all offensive like Gunk engine degreaser.

I would have to disassemble it and start from there. When you paint, get catalyzed automotive paint (if you have the equipment to apply it) instead of rattle cans. It's expensive but worth it if you are going to keep your bike and want it to look sharp for a long time.
 
This would be my first time removing an engine. Tips on where to start as far as removal? I know the obvious: airbox, carbs, plugs, wires, drain oil, etc. But is there an order of operations that works best?
 
i agree with wymple on the oven cleaner. it really works wonders. just wear long sleeves because it has a mild acid that don't feel too good on the skin. i also use aerosol carb cleaner for the hard to get stuff. becareful with the oven cleaner, because it can remove the paint on the frame.
 
This would be my first time removing an engine. Tips on where to start as far as removal? I know the obvious: airbox, carbs, plugs, wires, drain oil, etc. But is there an order of operations that works best?

After removing the obvious things, it does make it easier to remove the valve cover first to gain a bit of clearance.

The engine removes from the right side after removing the mounts. You can lay the bike on it's side and pick the frame off the engine or slide the engine out of the frame with the bike on the stand. I find it helpful to use a flat wonder bar to support the front of the engine while sliding it out and removing mounts.

Cover the frame with something to help keep it from scratching it. I use a bike lift with a piece of plywood on it to accept the engine when sliding it out.

V
 
It is a lot more work to remove motor, but that is the only way to do the job properly. It just depends how much work you are willing to put into it. If you cut corners, it will show in the end. And whether you remove the motor or not, don't under estimate the value of proper prep work.

Also, I use different sizes of stiff wire brushes (large, regular, and tooth brush size).
 
For cleaning the cooling fins, I use a paint stick that I wrap with a scotchbrite pad. You can whittle the paint stick to get into the deep recesses. Does a fast job and the fins come out real nice. I use a few grades of pad depending on the tarnish, and spray it with a bit of water once in a while
 
I think I'm going to replace the valve cover gasket while I'm checking my valve clearances, then once the valve cover is back on and not leaking I'll really do my best to clean the heck out of the engine while it's still mounted. I'll remove the gas tank and really get in there from every angle I can. I think pulling the engine may be a little out of my league for now. If I'm not completely satisfied, I'll think about pulling it over winter.
 
To me -- It depends on what your desired end result is going to be.
IF you want a showroom new look you will have to pull the engine and really clean all the nooks & crannies.
But if you just want it clean enough to pass the 10 foot eyeball test (from 10 feet away it looks good to the naked eye) then an
IN-BIKE clean can be very efficient.
I would use Simple Green in a spray wand like soap and a brush...
Just spray it on - brush it around - and rinse it off. Repeat as necessary .
AFTER you fix the leaks of course... :rolleyes:

5761576315
 
I will echo the praise for Simple Green. Once you have changed the gasket, warm the engine up a bit then spray on the SG and let it sit a few minutes. Rinse it off and be amazed at how much junk it removed. Once you have done the SG pass you will find the heavily gunked areas that may need some heavier solvents like an engine degreaser. Add in some scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush and a couple more applications of SG and you will be amazed at the transformation on your bike. It won't be concourse perfect of course, but it will be many times better than before.


Mark
 
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