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Cleaning my grounds

  • Thread starter Thread starter motokid837
  • Start date Start date
JTGS850GL said:
You guys are amazing! Why not PM me. I'll give you my phone number and you can give me a call. I am soooooo sick and tired of the paranoia around here. You guys must have been pretty beat up over the years.

Here's a start:

My name: Julius Tomsits thus the JT in jtgs850gl.
I live in Grayson GA 30017
My home number starts with 770 and my cell is 678

If you want the rest of the information you'll have to PM me to get it.

My guess is that the paranoia runs so deep that I will never see a PM or receive a call even if I do give it to you. Prove me wrong. I'd like to end this once and for all.
Click to expand...

Julius, I for one am sorry that you felt you needed to defend yourself. I'm sure no one intends that. Yes, it appears some bad stuff has happened over the years and some could rightly feel offended. Most of it due to misunderstandings at some level which is all too easy with such a diverse bunch of people communicating with keyboards. That said, trolls exist but what a sad life.
 
Here are a couple pics to show where the stock primary ground to the engine is:

LOAEXi.jpg


02K3uY.jpg
 
Brendan W said:
Julius, I for one am sorry that you felt you needed to defend yourself. I'm sure no one intends that. Yes, it appears some bad stuff has happened over the years and some could rightly feel offended. Most of it due to misunderstandings at some level which is all too easy with such a diverse bunch of people communicating with keyboards. That said, trolls exist but what a sad life.
Click to expand...

No problems. Every family has it's quarrels. Just wanted to make it clear that any issues with me being a PITA is purely directed at me and not to be confused with any other butt head.;)
 
I don't know if it would be something the OP would want to do, but I like my larger Battery +, battery -, and starter cables. A popular mod on 1050 Triumphs like I have was to upgrade to larger, marine style cables. I think Decosse who discussed it over on triumphrat is over here too. It caused my Triumph to start with less effort and it sounds more like a normal bike turning over. Having had experience with it on that bike, when I was going over my GS's electrics last year (doing a lot of stuff from posplayr posts on grounds and such) I went ahead and ordered more cables from genuinedealz.com (6ga marine stuff). I can assemble my own cables, but for the cable they have being priced assembled I didn't feel like doing it myself. I really just thought it would freshen up the GS a little, but it ended up turning over a good bit faster. I'm probably wrong about doing what I did for reasons beyond what I understand, so maybe it's a bad idea. My compression checks will likely be 10lbs higher next time I check just because the darn thing turns over so fast.
 
RedBaron said:
I don't know if it would be something the OP would want to do, but I like my larger Battery +, battery -, and starter cables. A popular mod on 1050 Triumphs like I have was to upgrade to larger, marine style cables. I think Decosse who discussed it over on triumphrat is over here too. It caused my Triumph to start with less effort and it sounds more like a normal bike turning over. Having had experience with it on that bike, when I was going over my GS's electrics last year (doing a lot of stuff from posplayr posts on grounds and such) I went ahead and ordered more cables from genuinedealz.com (6ga marine stuff). I can assemble my own cables, but for the cable they have being priced assembled I didn't feel like doing it myself. I really just thought it would freshen up the GS a little, but it ended up turning over a good bit faster. I'm probably wrong about doing what I did for reasons beyond what I understand, so maybe it's a bad idea. My compression checks will likely be 10lbs higher next time I check just because the darn thing turns over so fast.
Click to expand...

That is interesting if a manufacturer actually produced bikes with too small of a starter cable wire. Generally the voltage drops are more likely in the connections. Could be that the cables you replaced had poor connections and the Marine type were better.
 
I have also seen the grounds to the top of the tranny under that 10MM head bolt thats kinda in the rear right area if your sitting on the bike Julius. I still think an independent heavy wire from the battery ground straight to the frame would be a HUGE HUGE improvement as far as the frame ground points go.

Suzukis whole wiring harness wire diameter seems a little under sized to me as well...just sayin.
 
And my apologize Julius...but the pattern of coming right behind whatever i wrote is so eerily reminicant of one of the forums azzhat trolls that it makes me want to strangle the SOB....
 
No need to apologize. Just wanted to clear things up so that I don't have to be responsible for things I haven't said or done. Maybe I need to add something to my sig.

The single large wire coming from the engine case to the battery - terminal is the most direct path for the current from the starter motor to get to the battery. The starter motor is mounted directly to the engine case. That ground wire is responsible for most of the return path from the starter.
 
awwww......you guys should hug or something :D Nice addition to your sig. there JT, lol.
 
The ground for the R/R is one of the two starter solenoid bolts. That has a zinc plated sleeve which can corrode. I like to make up a little harness to connect this bolt directly to the battery and also to the frame where the battery box is mounted on top behind the fuel tank with another sleeve. I have seen this modification alone stabilize the voltage at 5000 RPM when it previously was dropping and fluctuating more than once. I have also seen that modification not correct that problem. Suzuki used black wire with a white stripe on my bikes for ground. Look at the ends of them, and make corrections you think are suitable. I would rather make up a ground harness than rely on the sleeves to stay clean after I clean them. The bikes I have done this with were shaft drive fours from 1979 through 1982. Your details may vary.
 
I do it similarly. One ground from the rear of the transmission to the - battery post. One ground from the -R/R to the same battery post and one ground from the common harness return junction (black/white wire) to the - battery post. The large gauge wire has it's own lug while the other two are combined into one lug. Both are screwed onto the battery terminal. This basically makes the - battery post the single ground point. Has provided measurable regulation improvement as well.
 
I had everything on the battery negative but it was starting to look like a Christmas tree as I have a hardwired battery tender as well. I moved the frame and r/r grounds to a post on the solenoid case with an extra wire back up to the battery.
 
Brendan W said:
I had everything on the battery negative but it was starting to look like a Christmas tree as I have a hardwired battery tender as well. I moved the frame and r/r grounds to a post on the solenoid case with an extra wire back up to the battery.
Click to expand...
Yes the Christmas tree effect. Contrary to popular folklore the battery (-) post is not the lowest potential point in the charging system and should not be the location of the SPG. The SPG should be located as close as practical to R/R (-). If batt(-) is the closest location to your r/r, then I'll concede that single case. But cosmetically as well a to reduce the possibility of ground corrosion I would recommend keeping the SPG away from the battery. There should only be only two grounds and one positive cable to the battery. The starter cable return and a wire of any length from batt(-.) to SPG.

with the SSPB installs I have fabricated a SPG harness. It ties 3 wires for r/r(-),frame,batt(-) into a common soldered ring lug connection. It is bolted to a convenient location where it can be stacked with the harness B/w.

This is what my Battery looks like. Note the there are only two wires on the negative terminal of the battery. The green wire is the original battery fluid sensor wire. Now hardwired to the battery (+) through a resistor. The other B/W ground is as it originally came from the factory to pick up grounds for the ignitor or anything else mounted to the battery box.

IMG_10041_zps4a967792.jpg


Item #4 in the picture is the SPG Harness I speak of. It is the preferred configurations whether using SSPB or not.
SSPB_Kit_zps85a2a335.jpg


A wiring sizing analysis for the SSPB is here, but the ground side applies equally as well to non SSPB configurations. I only use 14 gauge for short (less than 1 ft ) runs from SPG to R/R(-). The rest of the wires can be 16 ga (frame, battery grounds).

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...x-STANDARD-INSTALLATION&p=1965992#post1965992
 
Last edited:
Rob S. said:
Silly me. I didn't see "electrical," just saw the title, and thought this was a white trash post about junk cars and overgrown grass.
Click to expand...

I knew it wasn't me anyway. I'd never clean my grounds, I like the old cars too much.
 
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