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Cleaning up the Cafe

  • Thread starter Thread starter beergood
  • Start date Start date
Nice build Beergood! I read all your post and your blog and I am inspired to build my own cafe racer with my 77' 750. I hope you don't mind if a borrow a few ideas from your build...
 
I would love to have rearsets. Unfortunately I haven't been able to budget for them yet. There is no way I am shelling out $300 for a pair of Raask. I occasionally check for a pair of gsxr that I can retrofit, but I never seem to find them for the right price. What can I say, I'm cheap.
 
With those beautiful knee dents, rearsets would be foolish. Unless you are built like a locust.
 
Great stuff, Beergood.
I like the way you've gone about it.

I have kids (not new ones though), a healing collarbone and a GS painted in Killrust Ocean Blue.
Just last night I decided I'd like to cafe it on the cheap.
Today I find your bike.

Kismet, no?
 
You might want to check with 'danmoto' for rearsets. I know they don't have them specificly for your bike but being a chinese co., they are CHEAP enough than it would be worth while buying a set to modify to fit.

http://www.dan-moto.com/index.php?m...i3rjv4c4j7vc0&categories_id=&keyword=rearsets


I fact, I just went back and had another look and bought a set for a GSXR750 or 1100 in black for $40.00 WITH 31.00 SHIPPING.
the sets that are still available all appear to be the same with the exception of the mount plate which differs between bikes.
 
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hi beergood,

Im curiouse about how you did your seatpan. Is it possible you post some pics of the bottom, If you could add a measuring tape to the picture it would be great. Did you put the hinges on the seatpan?

thanks for your help...
 
Wish I would have seen this last night. I just bid on some on ebay sooo hoepfully I lose and can get em on DANMOTO. THANKS@!
DMorris said:
You might want to check with 'danmoto' for rearsets. I know they don't have them specificly for your bike but being a chinese co., they are CHEAP enough than it would be worth while buying a set to modify to fit.

http://www.dan-moto.com/index.php?m...i3rjv4c4j7vc0&categories_id=&keyword=rearsets


I fact, I just went back and had another look and bought a set for a GSXR750 or 1100 in black for $40.00 WITH 31.00 SHIPPING.
the sets that are still available all appear to be the same with the exception of the mount plate which differs between bikes.
Click to expand...
 
no battery, has that caused any problems ?

also do you have a schematic of the capacitors by any chance ?
 
I don't have a schematic, but it is pretty simple to make. I sourced a bag of 16V 100000 mfd capacitors from ebay. They are about the size of a woman's thumb each, and a bag of 50 or so cost me $15.

Something like this should work (but if you ruin your bike, you are on your own):
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22doFJZhee0ncrJC85cvVSuQ=

And then I soldered 10 of them in a parallel chain (positive to positive, negative to negative). Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics of the process, but basically I just lined them all up, taped them together, bent over the leads and soldered the tips of one to the bases of the next, and so on. When I got to the end I soldered some wires to attach it to the system and wrapped everything in insulation.

Since I have done this I have had zero electrical problems with the bike. The only "issue" with the bike is starting it after a long sit. Basically, you need to warm up the system. I wired in a shut off switch for the lights to help with the process, which goes like this:

  • Shut off the lights and ignition
  • Kick engine over a few times to charge the capacitors
  • Turn on the ignition and kick it again.

I don't have to do this every time, just if the bike has sat for a while.

I also did leave in the starter motor and the positive lead so that I can jump start the bike in an emergency.

Overall, I am pretty happy with this conversion, although I realize it isn't for everybody.
 
beergood said:
I don't have a schematic, but it is pretty simple to make. I sourced a bag of 16V 100000 mfd capacitors from ebay. They are about the size of a woman's thumb each, and a bag of 50 or so cost me $15.

Something like this should work (but if you ruin your bike, you are on your own):
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22doFJZhee0ncrJC85cvVSuQ=

And then I soldered 10 of them in a parallel chain (positive to positive, negative to negative). Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics of the process, but basically I just lined them all up, taped them together, bent over the leads and soldered the tips of one to the bases of the next, and so on. When I got to the end I soldered some wires to attach it to the system and wrapped everything in insulation.

Since I have done this I have had zero electrical problems with the bike. The only "issue" with the bike is starting it after a long sit. Basically, you need to warm up the system. I wired in a shut off switch for the lights to help with the process, which goes like this:

  • Shut off the lights and ignition
  • Kick engine over a few times to charge the capacitors
  • Turn on the ignition and kick it again.

I don't have to do this every time, just if the bike has sat for a while.

I also did leave in the starter motor and the positive lead so that I can jump start the bike in an emergency.

Overall, I am pretty happy with this conversion, although I realize it isn't for everybody.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't wiring ten 100,000uF 16v caps in parallel make one 1F 16v cap?

My understanding is that 16v is too low, you should choose a voltage that is about double the voltage you expect (or so I hear).

I used one of these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-000uF-40...183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20bf99309f
 
Yup, you could use one big ole capacitor. That is basically what the "battery eliminators" are. I just had these, so that is what I used.

Also, yes, a higher voltage rating would be safer, but the highest voltage that I have metered from my charging system is around a high 13v, so 16 is safe enough for me.

But seeing that ebay posting makes me think I might pick that up, so thanks.
 
beergood said:
Yup, you could use one big ole capacitor. That is basically what the "battery eliminators" are. I just had these, so that is what I used.

Also, yes, a higher voltage rating would be safer, but the highest voltage that I have metered from my charging system is around a high 13v, so 16 is safe enough for me.

But seeing that ebay posting makes me think I might pick that up, so thanks.
Click to expand...

Run a search on ebay for "000uf*" for a wide selection. ;)
 
Awesome. Im striving for that clean triangle under the seat. Ill update to let you know how it turns out. Also I noticed your running a 4-1 and pods, can help to ask what hey kit are you using ?
 
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Very nice bike but it needs spoked wheels.

(of course I am biased. I have a 78' GS 550 with spokes)
 
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A buddy of mine had a 1000 with mags. He wanted spokes, and he found this bike. I bought the bike after he swapped the wheels.

I would prefer to have spokes, but I haven't found the right deal yet.
 
Just refound this thread looking for an example of the fuel door being filled in. Very nice build:clap: Your blog is a crack up with the evolution of paint schemes.

Figured I'd go ahead and necro post a bit to add my two cents on a kick-only bike. An alternative to the capacitors I'm a fan of is a 12v scooter battery, and it is probably a better alternative for bikes with upgraded ignition. Duraboost CB3L-B happens to be the one that was in stock at cyclegear. Costs just under $20 and works great(just can't crank a big motor). Note the size compared to the new reg/rec. This is on a hard tailed '78 750, so you can gauge just how tucked in there behind the engine it is.

suzbat.JPG
 
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