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Clicking when spin wheel

  • Thread starter Thread starter glenwill
  • Start date Start date
G

glenwill

Guest
I originally posted this under my introductory thread in another subforum, and realized it was probably the wrong place...

Ok, so one of the problems of being a complete motorcycle noob is that I don't know what is normal and what is not, when it comes to sounds from my bike. I have gotten the engine running great, and as far as I can tell it is riding nicely.

However, when I have the bike on the center stand and spin the rear wheel, I hear a clicking sound from the clutch/gear box area. Is this normal? Should there be a clicking sound?

Could someone listen to this video and tell me if this sounds like a typical sound it should make?

http://youtu.be/grTJgNI2U4g

The chain seems flexible, although it's got some rust. The bike has 16K miles, and I figure at some point I should probably replace the sprockets and chain.

Thanks in advance, Glen.
 
Junk the chain, buy a new one and sprockets. The chain is dead and probably has eaten up the sprockets as well.
 
That sound is not normal. Take of the sprocket cover and do it again and see what you can see. Sort of sounds like a bad chain or maybe sprocket but I'm just guessing. You sure the chain is not too loose, or kinked?
 
Have not watched the video but would agree probably chain-sprockets from description. Remove sprocket cover like azr said and take a listen and inspect from there. Careful with cover bolts use a impact driver if you have one and replace with non phillips from your local motercycle shop if you have a couple of extra bucks. They usualy have socket or hex bolts instock just bring what you took out to compare sizes. Don't over tighten while replacing as all that space between fastner head and threads of hole make for easy snap of bolts.
I have had this happen.
 
Well, I am glad I asked!

Looking up the parts fiche, it seems that the stock sizes are 17 teeth on the front sprocket, and 51 teeth on the rear. Any reason to change that? I understand that some people change the sprocket sizes for performance reasons. I'm a new rider, and mostly want to get my bike in great condition.

Anything special I need to know to buy the chain? From the manual I think the stock chain is a size 50. I've seen references on this site to 520 or 530 chain, and I don't know what they are referring to.

How hard is changing the sprockets and chain? I know I'll need a chain tool.

Glen
 
Unless you're a heavyweight with a heavyweight passenger i would keep the standard sprocket sizes.

Before you do change your C&S just remove the front sprocket cover - there could be something stuck in there making that noise.

It probably is your C&S though and it's an easy job. The only thing to remember is to remove the front sprocket first before doing anything else. You need a 32mm socket and a good length bar for the nut - it will be tight I bet. To hold the shaft from spinning stick the bike in gear and get somebody to put their foot on the back brake. Fold back the locking washer and undo the nut.

It's all in the manual.
 
All the above is good advice

The only reason you'd need a chain tool is for peen style master links, so buy a clip style link with your new chain. You can grind off the old one if needed
 
Awesome, thanks all for the replies. I'll take the cover off and post what I see.

hampshirehog, I weigh about 265. I was 282 2 months ago. I hope to be much less than 260 by the end of the year!

Big T, thanks for the hint about clip links. That will make this much easier.
 
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glenwill said:
Awesome, thanks all for the replies. I'll take the cover off and post what I see.

hampshirehog, I weigh about 265. I was 282 2 months ago. I hope to be much less than 260 by the end of the year!

Big T, thanks for the hint about clip links. That will make this much easier.
Click to expand...

260 lbs - I'm in the UK so I have to work that out.... 18 and a half stone (I'm not fully metricated yet....:eek:). You're not a lightweight but you'll be fine with standard gearing.

The clip link suggestion by Big T might start a fight but I'm ok with them - just make sure you know how to install them properly
 
Ok, I seem to have fixed one problem and caused another.

When I took the clutch cable cover off, I found it was filled with leaves and dirt. I cleaned them out, but when I turned the wheel, it still made the same noise. I loosened the back wheel enough to take off the chain, and found that the sprocket was loose! Fortunately the bent washer kept it in place. I flattened the washer, tightened the sprocket nut, and bent the washer back.

Put on the chain, roughly adjusted tension, and it seems to be a bit quieter.

I put the cover back on, and now I can't get the clutch to function at all.

No matter how much I screw out the adjuster rod going into the cover, the clutch does not work at all.

I took the cover off, and when I push in the clutch push rod, it has no give whatsoever. It seems to not be positioned properly. I tried using a small pry bar to manually push in the push rod, and it does not budget at all. I expected some spring action.

Help!! I think when I pulled the cover off, the clutch push rod pulled out due to sticking to grease on it. Did that cause a problem?

Glen
 
To add some detail, the clutch cable is moving fine, and the clutch mechanism in the cover is working fine. When I have the cover off of the bike, it rotates and pushes out when you pull the clutch lever, and looks to be working correctly.

It's just that when I put the cover back on the bike and screw it in, the clutch feels very tight, and never dis-engages. I've tried adjusting it per the manual. When I get the adjuster all the way out (I.E. within 1-2 threads) it gives me a slight slip allowing me to turn the back wheel, but the clutch is hard to squeeze.

I can manually shift to neutral and spin the back wheel, manually shift to first, and it locks the wheel again. Pushing in the cluch does not disengage and allow the wheel to turn.

Glen
 
Sounds like you may have an extra set of plates and fibers in there that are making the pack too thick and the clutch pressure plate is hitting the cover. I would see what the stock count is on them and recheck whats in there. And when your putting the cable linkage back on the splined shaft, are you rotating it all the way clockwise till it stops before putting the link on???
 
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I think I may have been unclear where my problem is. I have not disassembled that actual clutch or transmission.

On my model, there is a clutch cover plate that the clutch cable goes into. That plate has a mechanism that when you pull the clutch cable, a small plate rotates and moves in/out. This plate makes contact with a clutch push rod that slides into it. So when you take the cover off, the push rod is still in the clutch/transmission.

5791022884929635377


Can't tell if the image above is showing, so if not try this link:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103315809940201927482/albums/5791022884929635377

It's the rod sticking out on the left side of the above picture.

When I push in on it, it doesn't seem to have any spring or give, like it is hitting a solid surface. It seems to me like maybe in order to go in all the way, it has to pass through a hole that is not quite lined up. so it is sticking out to far.
 
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Hang around for a few, it takes me a bit to write this up. I'll be right back.
 
You won't be able to push that rod with your hand - it's pushing against the clutch springs (indirectly). Did you accidentally mess up the mechanism in the cover you pulled off? Take a look at that first.
 
O.K., your clutch cable goes into the left side of the engine cases as you sit on the bike. It connects to a worm mechanism which converts up and down motion into side to side motion. You have messed it up somehow, it happens. While you are fixing this, I strongly suggest that you clean and re-lube it. Instructions follow.
First, remove your footpeg and shift lever. Now remove the sprocket cover. You called it something else, but it is a sprocket cover. Disconnect the cable. Now, in the sprocket cover you will see two phillips screws holding the mechanism onto the sprocket cover. Remove those. If you have and impact screwdriver this is an ideal time to use it. Now pull out the worm mechanism and take it apart (it unscrews). It is most likely all gunked up. Clean it very thoroughly and re-grease it. Marine grease is best; available everywhere.
Put it back together and re-install it, making sure that the part the cable slips into is vertical. Tighten it down. At this point, you really should lube your clutch cable. It is an ideal time and you will not have to do it again for a while. Disconnect it at the handlebars and drip some oil down it or spray some lube down it. Make sure it slides freely.
Pull the clutch rod out (the part sticking out of the transmission and check it for straightness. Roll it on a smooth surface (glass is best) and look for bumps, rolling sideways, anything that does not look right. If it checks out, re-insert it into the transmission.
Now, you are ready to re-assemble. Here is where you messed up. The clutch pushrod slips into the center of the worm assembly. You most likely missed the center. Slide the sprocket cover onto the shifter shaft and toward the engine cases. Bolt her up, adjust it, install the shifter and the footpeg and you should be GTG.
 
Thanks for your replies. I took a video of the worm mechanism. It seems to be functioning ok.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/103315809940201927482/posts/JyafM7A6K9f

I'll take it apart and clean as you suggest anyway, and I already have marine grease. However, it does look like it is working. It rotates, and when you look at it from the side, you can see it move in and out as it turns.

I have been able to adjust the various adjustments so that the clutch slips, but not to where it releases. When I try to go further to get it to fully release, it starts slipping even when the clutch lever is released.

I opened the oil fill cap, and shined a light in while pulling the clutch lever, and I do see the clutch plate move out.

The clutch was working fine until I pulled the sprocket cover off. Unfortunately, the instructions I had for the sprocket cover removal said to loosen the clutch adjustment screw first, so I may have just gotten it completely out of adjustment.

I just can't figure out what I am doing wrong.
 
Also, the pushrod does not pull all the way out. Should it? It gets stuck after pulling out maybe 3-4 inches.
 
Yes, it pulls out. If you loosened the screw then perhaps you are just out of adjustment. There should be a procedure in your service manual.
 
My pushrod does not pull out. It doesn't jam and get tight, it hits a dead stop. Here's a quick video:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/103315809940201927482/posts/7ZFoKxWWmNv

It seems to be the design of this model, or something is wrong inside the clutch, which I have not touched.

I cleaned the worm gear, greased and reassembled. Same result.

The most adjustment I can get by adjusting either the screw shaft on the front of the cover or the screw nipple that goes in the top of the cover is to get a small slippage of the rear wheel when the clutch is pulled. This requires me to push hard to get it to just barely slide. When I release the clutch, it stops.

If I attempt to adjust further so that the clutch will release, it never does, but it gets to where I have the very limited slip even with the clutch lever released.

I have followed the Clymer manual instructions 5 or 6 times and have the same result.

I am at a loss. Looking now in the OEM manual linked on this website to see what it says.
 
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