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Clutch cable, lube and lube tool?

  • Thread starter Thread starter littleroot
  • Start date Start date
L

littleroot

Guest
I am ordering a new clutch cable from Z1 because the one on Tom's GS1100E has a loose strand at the lever.

I just discovered the loose strand as I was preparing to check the clutch springs because it is slipping, even when I gun it from cruising at around 65 MPH in 5th gear(!) Could the slip be caused by a bad cable?

I'm guessing I should change the cable first and then check clutch performance before cracking open the clutch cover to check the springs.

Looking at buying this cable on Z1.

I see they recommend a new adjustment wheel and I'm good with that but not sure about getting the lube tool, too. Do I need to lube it before installation? Not sure I did any lube job when I changed one on my GL last year :o

Should I really buy a can of PJ "cable lube" too, or can I use something off my shelf like Seafoam Deep Creep?

Thanks guys,
-Bob
 
You will be happier with a Suzuki cable, they pull smoother longer.

It's very easy to replace the clutch springs, too. After being compressed for thirty years they are going to be shorter.

The cable lumbers are useful, but there are other ways of doing it.
 
any oil is good to lube a cable, you do not need to spend loads of money on so called cable lube. hang the cable up, get a small funnel and tape it securely over the end of the cable. pour engine oil or similar in the funnel and let it drain down the cable until it starts dribbling out the bottom.
job done.....
 
Agemax said:
any oil is good to lube a cable, you do not need to spend loads of money on so called cable lube. hang the cable up, get a small funnel and tape it securely over the end of the cable. pour engine oil or similar in the funnel and let it drain down the cable until it starts dribbling out the bottom.
job done.....
Click to expand...

The corner of a baggie rubber banded to the cable end makes a fine funnel.
 
tkent02 said:
You will be happier with a Suzuki cable, they pull smoother longer.

It's very easy to replace the clutch springs, too. After being compressed for thirty years they are going to be shorter.

The cable lumbers are useful, but there are other ways of doing it.
Click to expand...

Oh, so I failed to select the Suzuki cable on Z1? Hmm, I will try again to find it.
 
Looks like Z1 does not have the OEM. BikeBandit is close to me so they deliver fast even with cheap shipping. Faster than Babbits did the one time I used them
 
salty_monk said:
This is what I use.. No funnels, no bags, no disconnecting cables & no messing about. Time is precious. Shove the needle down the cable outer & squeeze!

http://www.amazon.com/Inox-INOX-INJECTOR-OZ-Injector/dp/B000GPZTJ6
Click to expand...

I like saving time. Food grade, too. Great desert topping? SNL reference

salty_monk said:
Harley also stock something remarkably similar

http://www.latus-harley-davidson.com/Harley-Lube.htm
Click to expand...

I like the price. Thanks for the recommendation
 
I used to drip machine oil, now I use a cable luber, much quicker.
Yes, you must lube the cable prior to installation.
No, it has nothing to do with clutch slippage. If any effect is felt at all, the clutch will be more difficult to use. Once the strands start to break, the cable starts to stretch.
You need to replace the tired clutch springs with new OEM clutch springs.
Z1 carries Motion Pro cables, not OEM.
 
tkent02 said:
You will be happier with a Suzuki cable, they pull smoother longer.

It's very easy to replace the clutch springs, too. After being compressed for thirty years they are going to be shorter.

The cable lumbers are useful, but there are other ways of doing it.
Click to expand...

BikeBandit has the 58200-45401 for $22. I think I will pull the trigger after I consider if there is anything else I need.... tempted to just go ahead and get the springs...
 
littleroot said:
BikeBandit has the 58200-45401 for $22. I think I will pull the trigger after I consider if there is anything else I need.... tempted to just go ahead and get the springs...
Click to expand...

Do it! Either get a full set of OEM springs or get a set of aftermarket ones & use 50% of them with 50% of the ones in there now (this gives a slightly heavier clutch & more "push" at the clutch end).

Don't buy all aftermarket & fit them - the clutch will be REALLY heavy. I currently use 50/50 in my GS (I found that even all new OEM could slip even though all plates & fibres are well in spec - old age I suspect!)

Don't forget you'll need a cover gasket for that side too. It's a 20 min job (basically get the cover off, undo one bolt at a time & replace them with a new spring then replace the cover) & you don't even have to drain the oil, just do it on the sidestand. :)
 
I have had one of these for close to 30 years. it works perfectly. you remove the cable from one end, place this on the cable, tighten down and insert the staw from you fav-o-rite "go to" lube. I use pj cable lube and it makes any cabel work like new.

there are knock offs on ebay for even less, ut I use this thing like once a week and would highly recommend it!!!
$(KGrHqN,!qkE+nMHbuZOBQGtQkCy7w~~60_12.JPG
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Motion-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item337e0b4a57&vxp=mtr


clube3.JPG
 
Last edited:
barnbiketom said:
I have had one of these for close to 30 years. it works perfectly. you remove the cable from one end, place this on the cable, tighten down and insert the staw from you fav-o-rite "go to" lube. I use pj cable lube and it makes any cabel work like new.
Click to expand...

Wow, once a week. So I guess you do it with only removing the ball end from the lever?

Thanks for the recommendation
 
salty_monk said:
Do it! Either get a full set of OEM springs or get a set of aftermarket ones & use 50% of them with 50% of the ones in there now (this gives a slightly heavier clutch & more "push" at the clutch end).

Don't buy all aftermarket & fit them - the clutch will be REALLY heavy. I currently use 50/50 in my GS (I found that even all new OEM could slip even though all plates & fibres are well in spec - old age I suspect!)

Don't forget you'll need a cover gasket for that side too. It's a 20 min job (basically get the cover off, undo one bolt at a time & replace them with a new spring then replace the cover) & you don't even have to drain the oil, just do it on the sidestand. :)
Click to expand...

Sounds good. Yeah, my 821100GL came with Barnett springs in a baggie which the PO said were too strong for him. Not sure if they are the same for the 801100E or if I should even try because they are so strong.

Thanks for the recommendation and the reminder for the gasket!! I got an extra gasket already one for my 821100GL, I have to check if they are the same - I doubt it, from memory the covers are pretty different.
 
littleroot said:
Wow, once a week. So I guess you do it with only removing the ball end from the lever?

Thanks for the recommendation
Click to expand...
Yes, you can lube the cable with it still on the bike. Just watch for fluid out the other end (which has a towel under it, of course). Once a week is a bit overkill, IMHO, unless you ride a whole lot every week in really dusty conditions.
 
What I meant was...

I use it on SOMETHING probably once a week. or maybe every other...I can't stand a hard clutch pull hahaha

4 or 5 bikes , 4 4 wheelers, step son's bike and 4 wheelers and various customer's stuff.. it's in the front, upper right drawer of my tool box..

on any given bike like my GS400. I do it maybe a couple times a summer or whenever it gets to not feeling good anymore. It takes only a couple minutes!!

When you spray the lube in.. you do it until you HEAR squirting and gushing on the other end if it is inside a housing like on the clutch. Front brake you see and hear it coming out.
 
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