Clutch does not dis-engage 83 750E

[Andrew Vanis]

Clutch does not dis-engage 83 750E

Worked before I replaced the chain.

Replaced the chain and took the sprocket cover off to make sure the chain seated well on the front sprocket. Adjusted the clutch per manual. Seems to be moving and pressing the rod in.

I also tried over-adjusting the clutch making sure it presses that bar in quite a bit. Just stays in gear.

I can put it in the various gears manually with the motor off and turning the rear wheel manually if needed.

Any idea why the clutch is not dis-engaging?

 

[Guest]

Is the oil super over filled?

 

[Guest]

Tighten the handle bar adjustment all the way in. Unlock the clutch actuator and turn the screw until it releases the clutch lever. If there is already slack adjust it until you have a little play at the lever.

 

[Andrew Vanis]

Actually it has the sight glass is all full (thanks PO). Will drain a bit and see what happens.

Interestingly though it worked with the same oil level previously (when I bought it)

Btw, the engine is cold during this trial/adjustment process.

 

[Andrew Vanis]

Tighten the handle bar adjustment all the way in. Unlock the clutch actuator and turn the screw until it releases the clutch lever.

Did that. Also tried over adjusting it to force it in more and still no release. I'll try draining some of the oil and see what happens.

 

[Andrew Vanis]

Need more ideas - Still not dis-engaging.

Drained all the oil = same, so its not oil level. (PS - also discovered the PO installed a MIP tapered drain plug and an OEM drainplug does not fit. Guess he stripped the drain plug previously)

Cranked the engine with the gears in neutral = wheel does not move, with the engine in 1st = wheel moved. afterwards, still not dis-engaging

Tested the clutch handle/cable friction while disengaged from rod = easy. when connected to actuating rod = hard. compared to my ES it is much harder to squeeze the clutch on this E. It is MUCH harder to squeeze the clutch than I remember before replacing the chain - when I test rode it t was a 2-finger squeeze - in fact when I test rode the bike, I noticed and was shocked how easy the clutch handle was compared to my 81 750L.

Ideas?

 

[Gorminrider]

ideas? well, you can pull the clutch out and see how it works on the bench by loosening the screws that hold it together and are keeping springs clenched and see why (OR IF) the plates do not spin by each other when the spring tension has been released...
(add or even on the bike? but I can't recall doing this myself with a suzuki but loosening the screws enough and hand cranking the engine around might give a clue)
double checking assembly might help if it does not seem to be functioning at all per the manual...Plate thickness and warpage...plates hanging up in the cages through worn spots etc.

But you should probably check gear box first, without clutch, by just operating the foot lever on the centre stand, just to reassure yourself that the problem is indeed,"obviously" the clutch...removing the plugs obviously helps if you want to spin the engine but just being able to count up and down through gears should be enough if you can give the rear wheel a bit of a turn through sticky bits....

 

[Andrew Vanis]

ideas? .......But you should probably check gear box first, without clutch, by just operating the foot lever on the centre stand, just to reassure yourself that the problem is indeed,"obviously" the clutch...removing the plugs obviously helps if you want to spin the engine but just being able to count up and down through gears should be enough if you can give the rear wheel a bit of a turn through sticky bits....

tried that - all gears engaged. (left the spark plugs in) noticed in 5th gear I could turn the engine with the R wheel and if I squeezed the clutch I could rotate the wheel just a little bit easier. Then tried turning the R wheel in all gears and if applying much force to turn the wheel in any gear with the clutch lever engaged I could turn the rear wheel. So that would point to something inside the clutch. I also tried over-engaging the clutch by screwing in the adjustment screw and it made no difference on the dragging and it did act like the clutch lever was pressed.

What I am baffled by is the easy actuation and free spinning when clutch lever pressed before the chain change vs. the current hard actuation and dragging clutch

 

[roeme]

Two ideas:

1. Maybe you cleaned too thoroughly, and/or forgot to lube the rod. And now your senses are playing games with you:
I'm a complete noob, but somebody told me that the clutch will never fully disengage. Combine this fact with maybe a hard-to-move rod... I dunno, I don't think you'd be fooled by that, given how long you're riding.

2. Your clutch cable is failing. Come think of it, I had a very similar, if not the same failure mode on my bike: I noticed the clutch not properly disengaging, readjusted for perceived slack, clutch worked fine again. Until the next strand of the cable broke. Rinse, repeat until I finally noticed what was going on.

The actuating resistance could be explained by a frayed cable, where individual broken strands dig into the inner sleeve.

 

[Andrew Vanis]

I would agree with you on actuation difficulty and cable fray and will check that out.

What the actuation difficulty does not address is the clutch drag, which once the clutch is actuated - should allow the rear wheel to rotate (almost) freely and it did rotate freely prior to chain change.

 

[jdvorchak]

I would agree with you on actuation difficulty and cable fray and will check that out.

What the actuation difficulty does not address is the clutch drag, which once the clutch is actuated - should allow the rear wheel to rotate (almost) freely and it did rotate freely prior to chain change.

Actually it does address the clutch drag. I just went through a couple of weeks on an 81 GS750E. I bought a NOS OEM clutch cable, completely disassemble the clutch pack. Everything I tried was in vain. Then I pulled the fuel tank, routed the clutch cable in as direct manner as I could to the lever. Easier but not easy. Moving the clutch cable up over the cylinder had and it became almost impossible to pull the clutch. All the while it would creep in 1st gear with the clutch pulled all the way back and I could not get it into neutral with the engine running. I finally ended up buying another new clutch cable. This time I went aftermarket with one that specifically said nylon lined sheath. That fixed it. Clutch is now a lot easier to pull and no more creeping in first gear and I can easily get it into neutral with engine at idle and clutch pulled in.

you may even find that your clutch cable is starting to fray and as each wire breaks the cable gets a little weaker and stretches a little more.

 

[Gorminrider]

frayed cable is a good one! Can you check for "motion"...ie: cable length pulled at handlever versus at clutch pushrod actuator....there shouldn't be any difference at each end of cable. Obviously, need be "loaded" to be a useful test. But (note to self!) we should all have new clutch cables anyways

..and, turning the cable adjustment to "push deeper" should also be seen to be moving the actuator more.

What I am baffled by is the easy actuation and free spinning when clutch lever pressed before the chain change vs. the current hard actuation and dragging clutch

yes it's odd. My old chains have had tighter-looser spots...and adjusting them was of course impossible...you would have noticed this if so on yours but maybe it begs the question if loosening your new chain a lot "helps". or maybe chain binding /lifting on old sprockets?...

 

[Andrew Vanis]

preliminary results indicates cold oil=sticky

so far only ran on the center stand and when cold could not turn wheel. when warmed up, could turn wheel.

BTW, the discs etc checked in specs (actually on the newer side so that may make for tighter tolerance.)

 

[hillsy]

preliminary results indicates cold oil=sticky

so far only ran on the center stand and when cold could not turn wheel. when warmed up, could turn wheel.

BTW, the discs etc checked in specs (actually on the newer side so that may make for tighter tolerance.)

Sounds normal.