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Clutch Hub Rebuild - need advice

Nessism

Nessism

Forum LongTimer
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Shimmed the clutch springs per this instruction... http://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm

Asked a friend to weld it back together and this is what he did. Is this going to be sturdy enough or should I get it welded all around each rivet?

IMG_1028.jpg


IMG_1029.jpg
 
I would vote to be on the safe side...and do a full weld on each. I dont really trust the strength of tack welds, also tell you buddy to turn the voltage up just a tad to get better burn in on the 2 filler welds on each rivet.
 
Ed

Ed

What bike? For the 1100/1150's generally that backing plate is replaced with a thicker one. I'm pretty sure flying banana showed the diff in a pic.
Jim
 
posplayr said:
What bike? For the 1100/1150's generally that backing plate is replaced with a thicker one. I'm pretty sure flying banana showed the diff in a pic.
Jim
Click to expand...

GS1000. This repair is the same as the banana guy used, stock backplate. Just shim the springs so they don't rattle and stitch the thing back together.
 
IMNSHO doing a spot top and bottom of each rivet is a better way to go, as one single weld all the way around each rivet is more likely to crack, and the heat input will weaken the backing plate all the way around each rivet.

Dink
 
. Last thing you want is for the clutch to come apart. Hard to say if the weld penatrated into the rivit ?
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
. Last thing you want is for the clutch to come apart. Hard to say if the weld penatrated into the rivit ?
Click to expand...

I'm not worried about the quality of the welds. The guy that did the work is a top notch machinist that spent many years building race cars and currently works in aerospace serving the R&D guys where I work.
 
Ed

Ed

The solution is a new clutch basket backing-plate, complete with heavy-duty springs and thicker rivets for good measure. It's all fairly easy to install -- you just need to pay attention to how things have been assembled as you dismantle the old basket. And dismantling is easy to do; just take the heads off the old rivets with an angle-grinder.

Click to expand...






I was pretty sure he swapped it out; that why he was showing how thin it was.


Jim
 
posplayr said:






I was pretty sure he swapped it out; that why he was showing how thin it was.


Jim
Click to expand...

Hey Jim,

You need to go back and read the article. The guy did a hipo rebuild on his 1100 Katana clutch hub, but for his regular 1000, he just shimmed the springs.
 
Ed

Ed

Actually I already know what to do. My ED has the heavy duty plate :eek:.
Jim
 
Ed, every place that rebuilds clutch hubs welds the rivets ALL the way around. Why do you think that is? Ray.
 
Ed, here is a pic of my clutch done by Stan Gardener

3062305743_9232b139c0_b.jpg


He went all the way around, if it's not to late I would seriously consider the heavier back plate, the stock stuff is notoriouly flimsy and is the cause 9/10 time for clutch failure. The kit it's self is pretty cheap, it's the labor that gets you and it looks like you have that covered.
 
hey first timer....now those are pretty welds and it looks like they are burned in very nice!
 
It will eventually bend the tabs out and let the springs out. Guess where the pieces go.

Jay
 
Personally I think if you have good penetration on those welds & it looks like you do, then it should be fine..
If you've ever tried to shear a weld like that you'll know how tough it is, I'm sure it will be at least as strong as the heads on the rivets were beforehand.

Jim - read the article, the guy uses the stock backplate for his 1000. He does use an uprated one on his Katana. That's not to say that an uprated might not be a good idea but Ed has a flat table & that 1000 he is working on seems like it's been beat on pretty good, if the plate is still flat after that I would think it's fine....

Dan :)
 
rapidray said:
Ed, every place that rebuilds clutch hubs welds the rivets ALL the way around. Why do you think that is? Ray.
Click to expand...

I suspect Habit... the first guy did it that way & everyone copied him. Just because something is usual practice doesn't always mean it's best or necessary. :)
 
If you all stop & think about how much LOAD is on those rivets you would KNOW to weld them all the way around. Those rivets are the only 3 things keeping the gear attached to the basket! Ray.
 
Took the hub and had it welded all the way round - guy charged me $10 which seemed fair. My thinking is that the rolled edge on those rivets was all the way around before so better be safe and weld it all the way around. The welder guy recommended having the hub balanced. It was put together in the same orientation as before so I'm struggling to see the value in balancing it.

As an aside, the springs don't rattle now with those washers stuck in there shimming them. Hope the clutch rattle noise is gone now.
 
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