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Clutch no workee.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Having lots of fun in the garage lately, bent the primer tube on one of my carbs, and have moved on to further re-assembly rat killin.
To bring you up to date, I had a transmission problem and have replaced 4th gear on my 1000, was real careful removing and re-installing the clutch and associated gear, also had help from a friend. But.... when I place the transmission in gear and ENGAGE THE CLUTCH LEVER the rear tire does not spin free, it's ok in neutral. I looked in the oil fill port and can see that the spring plate is moving, doesn't appear that it can move too much further so I don't think that it is adjustment related, I do not have any oil in the machine yet, and don't want to put any in there if I have to go back into the clutch.
So.. clutch or tranny?

Please be clutch...

DOGHOUSE
 
could just be the clutch discs sticking together...is the clutch new? did you soak the fiber plates in oil before installing? did you try to push the bike in gear, with clutch pulled in, to break the discs free?
 
daveo said:
could just be the clutch discs sticking together...is the clutch new? did you soak the fiber plates in oil before installing? did you try to push the bike in gear, with clutch pulled in, to break the discs free?
Click to expand...
Right. Rock the bike back and forth several times with the bike in gear and the lever pulled in. This is necessary sometimes on bikes that have sat awhile, and with oil already in them.
The clutch cable arm should be pointing to about 9:00 also.
 
Cluth no workee

Cluth no workee

No I used the old clutch plates, did not oil them, and have not tried pushing the bike in gear, did not want to bend fold or mutilate anything until I got some more info.
How much experience do you have in this field, should I put in some oil I would hate to pour it in just to take it out again but I am up against it so I have to do something to isolate the problem.

DOGHOUSE
 
WHY DONT YOU REMOVE THE COVER AND SEE WHAT IS MOVING AND WHAT IS NOT--YOU CAN CHANGE GEARS BY JUST ROCKING THE BIKE.

COULD YOU HAVE LEFT OUT A STEEL OR A FIBER??

iS IT POSSIBLE THAT THE PARTS WERE SO WORN THAT THEY JUST WONT MAKE CONTACT???

Boy have i been overworking the caps lock lately :oops:
 
trans

trans

when you did the trans where you sure that you had the forks and gears in the proper set up when putting the case halves back together? did you run it thru all the gears when you first put the halves together, if not it may be locking in 2 gears at a time, or jamming, you can put it on the center stand and take the plugs out to confirm that the trans shifts thru ok, just spin the back wheel by hand, DO NOT FORCE ANY THING
 
Clutch no workee

Clutch no workee

I was real careful on disassembly and reassembly and am pretty sure that no parts were left out, I don't have any parts left over. I had a friends help on the re-assembly and his assessment of the old plates was, serviceable.
After putting the halves together andf before the oil pan was replaced he did shift it through the gears and the shifter drum did rotate and the neutral would spin freely but I don't remember if we turned the shaft while it was engaged. I know that we did not remove the spark plugs and did not turn the engine over.
My friend and I both live in different states but just happen to be working in a neutral state together now. I took the engine and parts to work and in the evenings we re-assembled it. I did not take the lever that activates the clutch and we were not able to cycle through the gears due to the lack of leverage that the cable and lever provides.
If I take the plates and metals out can I cycle the bike and isolate the problem to definitely the clutch or the tranny?
If I take out the plugs leave it in gear and turn the back wheel and the engine cycles then I could be sure that it is clutch related?

DOGHOUSE
 
Well, it sounds like you were careful during re-assembly.
I would get some oil on the plates, put the bike in 3rd gear or higher, exercise the clutch lever several times, then pull in the lever and rock the bike back and forth a few times. The wheel should spin freely after about 5 times back and forth?
It's been awhile since I did any clutch work. Just a thought: You did put the thrust washer back in with the groove facing the right direction?
 
Good news, seems like it was just the clutch plates sticking together. Went down messed around, had the bike on the center stand plugs out, turned the rear wheel engine turns, grabbed the clutch had a little resistance but worked free, and I seem to remember that all last summer the bike did like to jump a little when I first started it after setting all week. Kind of lost track of idosyncracies like that in the fog of rat killin.
I plan on putting in the vital fluids and see iffin she'll run tormorrw, I will be back don't know what rat will show up but I see that there is a smiley face look forward to using it.

Thanx for all the input.
DOGHOUSE
 
DOGHOUSE said:
grabbed the clutch had a little resistance but worked free, and I seem to remember that all last summer the bike did like to jump a little when I first started it after setting all week.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's pretty common. After V&H rebuilt my motor/clutch, I found that the aftermarket plates in combination with 20/50 oil, would make my bike "jump" at first start. Exercising the lever a few times before tapping into gear helped some. This never happened before the rebuild. I finally went with 10/40 oil, which is what Suzuki calls for in my bike anyway and the jumping stopped. If I had known V&H would install something other than genuine Suzuki plates, I would have stopped them. I like the idea of 20/50 in the summer, but I'm not bothering changing back to stock plates. Live and learn. :roll: Good luck with it.
 
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