• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Clutch Not Pulling In

  • Thread starter Thread starter notto06
  • Start date Start date
N

notto06

Guest
I thought that i had a bad clutch cable. Finally got the cable and replaced it. Clutch is still not working. If i manually try to pull the clutch in, bypassing the use of the cable, it just doesnt pull in. I pulled the cover off and i am not really sure what is supposed to be happening here. I would assume that when the spline is turned, it pulls the plate out so its not in gear? With the cover on, i can look in the oil fill hole and see the piece pulling in and out. I think it is just free moving though and not actually grabbing the plates?

Ideas?

Thanks,

Otto
 
i think i figured it out. just want to verify. my spline has a slop gap where i can throw it back and forth manually on the outside. i had it setup so it was all the way out on the slop, then pulling in from there. i should have it all the way in on the slop, and then pulling in from there, to pull the plate away, correct?

Thanks
 
notto06 said:
i think i figured it out. just want to verify. my spline has a slop gap where i can throw it back and forth manually on the outside. i had it setup so it was all the way out on the slop, then pulling in from there. i should have it all the way in on the slop, and then pulling in from there, to pull the plate away, correct?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Yes, sounds like you figured it out- first get pivot lever about right, then fiddle with cable to suit this spot and give you a liitle play at handlebar. Take a peek at parts fiche and it will be easy to follow operation.
 
i went ahead andw hooked it up to pull it from the most inner of the slop point. i see the plate moving, but i dont think its pulling out far enough? once i put it into gear, it stays in gear. it is not disengaging once i pull in the clutch. i used a torque wrench on the springs, i am at about 9 ft/lb on each. do i not have enough grab from the springs to pull it out far enough? it is pretty tight when i pull the clutch in.
 
also, with the cover off, the "clutch release rack" is able to move in and out freely. that would be the slop that i have in the spline on the outside when its mounted. is this supposed to be free moving in and out like that? and free spinning all the way around?

Thanks
 
If you take the cover off, the pivot gear falls out of mesh with the "correct spot" on the rack gear ( this is the gizmo that pushes on plates to release them). When you reinstall cover, you will likely have to unclamp lever arm and move it on pivot shaft, so it starts pushing on rack gear with very little play before resistance is felt. A properly set cable prevents the lever arm from swinging too far to the right and losing this closeness- as you pull on clutch lever, you want to feel resistance real quick.
 
Make sure the lever and cable are at 90 degrees on the motor side. The splined shaft should be in position to depress the clutch but not touching so it rumbles with the motor running. There is adjustment at both ends of the cable and in the middle on top of the valve cover. Adjust all of these so the cable sheath gets longer taking up the slack. Just make sure you leave plenty of future adjustment at the clutch lever. It doesn't take much to depress the clutch so you will hit that point with the bottom and middle adjustment, leaving the top for fine adjustment. I like to have a fair amount of slack at the clutch lever so my friction point is closer to the handle, but that is up to you. Less slack and the clutch engages farther out. I feel I have less control out there, but everyone has different size hands and strengths so put it where you are comfortable.
 
i have that portion worked out. lever has been on and off through the process of setting the cable. currently, its almost like the clutch isnt being pulled out enough. when i pull the clutch, and put a little weight behind the bike, i can get her to move forward a bit, but there is still a lot of fight like its only about half way disengaged. is there something else i should be looking for here?

Thanks
 
When the lever arm /pivot shaft engages nicely with rack gear gizmo , I can push on lever arm with the heel of my hand, take up a little play, and disengage the clutch. Look at pic, see how pivot shaft engages rack gear gizmo- part #21
 
there is no way that i would be able to move the lever with my palm. there is too much pressure pushing back. pulling from the clutch lever on the handlebars is pretty tight itself. it wasnt that strong before i started having issues. what would cause that?
 
notto06 said:
there is no way that i would be able to move the lever with my palm. there is too much pressure pushing back. pulling from the clutch lever on the handlebars is pretty tight itself. it wasnt that strong before i started having issues. what would cause that?
Click to expand...
Well, if this bike is new to you, PO might have installed heavy duty springs. I can look in oil fill hole, push on lever and see clutch backing plate move toward me about 3/16 inch to disengage clutch. I would think the 850 clutch is just a little harder. Make sure you go to Alpha-sports website to get full size pic of what's happenning- it's not easy to explain.
 
Also check that the pivot hole in your clutch lever has nt worn oval, and/or the pivot bolt worn, they get dirt and dust in there and it acts like grinding paste, if the pivot hole in the lever is worn, it will give you a clutch that does not disengage properly, causing the dragging you describe, also makes the pull harder.
Assuming evertthing else is set up correctly.
 
yea i can see a little movement, and when the cable is attached and i look in the fill hole, i also see movement. by pivot hole on the clutch lever, do you mean where the lever itself is mounted to the bars, or where the end of the cable is being pulled in? the new cable seems to fit pretty snugly in the hole.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this guys.
 
the springs had seemed pretty close to the limit. i went ahead and ordered new ones on Monday, but they wont be here until middle of next week. could the springs just not have enough to them anymore and cause it to not pull out far enough? ive been over the diagram many times, seem to have an OK understanding of what is going on. the hub is just being pulled out to disengage. i just dont see why it will not pull enough to actually fully disengage. probably one of the more frustrating tasks ive dealt with on this bike so far.
 
Yes, I mean, the hole where the bolt goes through, where it mounts to the bars, a sure sign of worn lever is excessive up and down movement of the lever.
I might have missed it, but what is the history of the bike? When last did it run on a regular basis, it could be that your clutch is sticky and the plates are gummed together, a strip and good cleaning of the clutch will sort that problem out.
Warped steel clutch plates will also cause the clutch to drag.
 
with the cable off of the clutch lever, it does have some up and down wiggle to it. it was running all of last riding season here in ohio, so back in october. i have had it apart doing misc things here and there. nothing else related to the clutch. i have the side cover off now and was getting ready to pull the plates. i have inspected them for thickness and they are well within spec. i need to setup an area to check for the warping. do you have recommendations for cleaning these before reinstall?

Thanks
 
Not too sure what you could use to clean the plates, I would just give them a good wipe down, make sure there is no gunk on them.
To check warpage on the steel plates, get a piece of glass, lay them flat on the glass, and try and insert a thin feeler gauge between the glass and the plate, any warpage will show up quickly.
 
Flyboy, i think were onto something here. i checked for gap, we seem to be fine. I went ahead and just wiped each plate down before i inserted them. the driven plates seem to have 2 different sides, one a little more flat than the other. i put that side to the inside. i just slapped the cover on and tested, i have a lot more movement now. do you know if the driven plates do in fact go in specifically in one direction or the other? i will update as i get her back together here shortly.

Thanks
 
now i was going to try and bypass using the gaskey and just get some RTV Silicone. Before i put anything on, i wanted to tighten everything up, re-oil, and start her up to make sure i can shift to first without a stall. When i tighten the cover, the shifter then sticks. is this because of the gasket missing? the gasket isnt really all that thick, so i didnt think that it would make that large of a difference.
 
Not sure,go ahead and use the gasket, wipe a thin film of grease or engine oil on both sides before fitting, then it will not break when/if you have to take the cover off again, not that it should anyway.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top