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Clutch rattle questions (with VIDEO!)

  • Thread starter Thread starter cableguy
  • Start date Start date
C

cableguy

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I knew there had to be something shiny to get you to look! Anyway, I shot this clip to show what's going on, turns out the hub nut is backed off a big, no big deal. Clutch looks OK but I have new OE fibers going in as well as springs. Basket looks surprisingly good inside. The rivets on the basket are not loose whatsoever, but I'm considering taking it to be TIG'd just to know its good to go.

Hub bearing: is there any amount of normal play or should it be tight

Hub nut: is a new OE OK to use for normal riding? I'm not a dragger nor do I intend on adding anything to the HP department. Can I reuse the one I took off?

Release pin: should it be this loose? First instinct is no, and it seems like I need a shim under the e clip to firm it up.
 
It stings spending that much money on a nut right?

Unfortunately, Its worth it
 
The 1150 nut is reputed to be stronger than the regular nut and it's only a few bucks.

No need to tig the rivets. The problem with the hub is not the rivets letting go, it's the back plate and springs inside the hub cushion drive are under rated for high performance riding. In extreme cases, the back plate and/or springs fail and the basket grenades.
 
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some places have superseded #'s and you end up with an 1100 nut.
be aware the 1150 nut should be quite a bit thicker than the 1100.
ape's moly nut is the best hands down.
 
Thanks for the input so far. If I get a new 1150 nut and use thread locker will I be OK or is it somehow going to be a continuous problem? If racing and/or 100 more HP aren't in the plans am I still ok with the OE nut?
 
I decided that a new OE 1150 nut will do for now, and a new splined washer. Looking at the fiche I noticed that are 4 different thickness shims (#4 in diagram) available that go between the hub bearing spacer and the inner sleeve that the clutch discs go on. Is there any reason to think that I need a different one than what I just removed? I wouldn't think that anything has changed, but just thought I would ask. I saw a post from Ray somewhere that he uses different ones, and I think he was talking about building from scratch.


Image
 
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use what you have...no need to change for your application.
if you was breaking inner hubs from basket contact then a person would add more shim thickness .
 
Ok so I tried to order the number for the 1150 specific nut and as Blowerbike predicted I got the thinner nut that superseded mine. Just for grins here's the side -by-side

FA697893-E439-4E2A-A337-B0F3D856DE10-965-000000FD923C759F_zpsed441d74.jpg


Is the nut I removed still usable? I know the APE is bulletproof but if I can torque this one down and wait until the next rattle to spring for the fancy one I just want to know the risks and weigh the options. I did get a new washer though.
 
Progress but still questions

Progress but still questions

I finally got some time this weekend and changed the clutch fibers, and against the judgement of some, reused the stock nut, just added a few pounds of torque and a new bendy washer. The basket is in good shape, and everything bolted up nicely. HOWEVER, there is still a little bit of wiggle to the assembly. Not nearly as much as in the video, but i was expecting it to be solid, as in no play. Any ideas?
 
Correct me if I am wrong but I thought these clutches had a needle bearing between the basket and the shaft that wear out also?
 
You're not wrong about there being a bearing, and I didn't think of that. It didn't seem obviously worn out or needles falling out or anything, how do you check?
 
They don't need to be falling out to be worn.If it still has a little wobble to it, I would suspect that part and replace it for peace of mind.
 
AND, don`t forget the small rubber knob ( approx 3,5mm diameter) in the one hole inside the basket. It should be approx 1 - 1,5 millimeter outside the basket surface to keep the sprocket inside inplace. ( THIS IS TO AVOID MAJOR RATTLING )
I used a part of a O-ring , with success...
 
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