clutch rebuild

[evan132]

Hi everybody, I just got a new hd basket, and plates for my 83 gs1100e as my other ones were pretty beat up and upon replacing everything I noticed that there is a washer right behind the clutch basket spacer and in front of the oil gear. It looks like the spacer and oil gear it are mated with a circular groove and protrusion and I cant find that washer in any diagram or service manual, so my question is, is that washer suppose to be in there?, thanks

 

[blowerbike]

yes you need it...
if you leave it out the clutch will be direct drive.
on 83's and all 1150's they use a narrower hub spacer and that shim makes up the difference in the thickness(makes the hub spacer the same as the 80-82's).
hopefully your using OEM style fibers(aluminum backed not steel).
83 was the only year for an extra plate clutch and they would beat the crap out of the basket grooves..almost as bad as a barnett.
are you adding an APE hub nut?
if not...order one.

 

[Nessism]

The parts fishe shows the proper order of assembly. Sounds like the order of the washer/spacer is mixed up.

There is a good parts diagram here... http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

 

[blowerbike]

The parts fishe shows the proper order of assembly. Sounds like the order of the washer/spacer is mixed up.

There is a good parts diagram here... http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

basket goes against the oil pump gear/then the hub spacer/then the 1-2mm shim/then the grooved washer/then the inner hub...sound right?

 

[evan132]

Sounds good Blowerbike, it still isn't shown in that diagram though, Im gessing thats just because it was added?, anyways ill be down in the garage tonight, thanks

 

[blowerbike]

check a diagram for an 84-86 1150 and see if its there.
it would be the same assembly as an 83 1100E/ES.

 

[niclpnut]

83 1100 ES clutch install:

first is washer against bearings:

Next is oil pump drive gear and bearing:

Then the clutch hub and bearings, get the hub lined up then seat the bearings:

Next is the clutch hub spacer and slotted washer, with the slots facing in:

Then the hub itself and the fibers/plates. 10 fibers and 11 plates in stock clutch. First plate is behind piano wire. Alternate fibers and plates.

Lock washer next, and hub nut. Torque to manual specs. I used a c-clamp to hold the inner hub:

fold the lock washer over to secure the hub nut. Set pressure plate into position, and tighten spring bolts. I torqued to right about 6lb/ft:

Buttoned up the cover, making sure the knotches on the pressure plate bar are facing to the left and line up with the cover.

Reatached the clutch cover arm, at 90 degree to the case, and have about 2mm of slack at the handle.

 

[evan132]

Well I got it all together and everything is working as it should, it was just that shim that was confusing me, thanks for all the help guys.

 

[rapidray]

Call me at 714--356-7845 if you ever want to make it FASTER!!! Ray.

 

[evan132]

Haha, trust me Ray I do! As a matter of fact the plan is to do a complete rebuild/buildup sometime next year and ill definitely be coming here for advice.

 

[1948man]

Is either one of these beefy enough to loosen or tighten the Hub Nut?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-compact-air-impact-wrench-94802.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-twin-hammer-air-impact-wrench-94803.html

 

[gearhead13]

Is either one of these beefy enough to loosen or tighten the Hub Nut?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-compact-air-impact-wrench-94802.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-twin-hammer-air-impact-wrench-94803.html

They might be good enough to loosen the hub nut, but you need a torque wrench to tighten it to get the proper torque.