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Clutch Recomendation

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackStar
  • Start date Start date
B

BlackStar

Guest
Need a new clutch for my 78 GS1000. What brands have you guys found works well. So far I have found OEM (expensive), Vesra, EBC, and Barnett (nobody seems to carry).

Thanks
 
I've used Vesra in the past with excellent results. I highly recommend making sure the kit comes with new springs, if not, make sure you buy those too.
 
What is making you think that you need a new clutch? Have you removed the plates and measured their thicknesses? I have had more than one clutch slip on me over the years. In all of those situations, the slippage was cured by merely installing new springs.
Lots cheaper and eaiser to find. \\:D/


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I did the Barnett and the springs were so stiff I had to go back to the orig springs.
 
Steve said:
What is making you think that you need a new clutch? Have you removed the plates and measured their thicknesses? I have had more than one clutch slip on me over the years. In all of those situations, the slippage was cured by merely installing new springs.
Lots cheaper and eaiser to find. \\:D/


.
Click to expand...


Bingo -- these clutches last dang near forever. Most of the time all you need is new OEM springs to cure slippage. They get really tired after 20+ years under pressure.

They're only about $2-$3 each, too. 6 springs and a clutch cover gasket cost you maybe $25, and take maybe 15 minutes to install.
 
I noticed the other night that with a high gear roll on that at about 5000 RPM where the power comes on, it would start to slip. I don't notice it in the lower gears, but I'm not on it hard since I'm still getting use to the bike. Cable is adjusted ok. Also it seems that when taking off from a stop that the friction zone does not end until the lever is fully released. I just thought the clutch was about done? and I was planning on new springs while I was in there.
 
I put a barnett clutch in mine but it drags worse than the oem one did when cold, never slips though. I'd go oem.
 
BlackStar said:
I noticed the other night that with a high gear roll on that at about 5000 RPM where the power comes on, it would start to slip. I don't notice it in the lower gears, but I'm not on it hard since I'm still getting use to the bike. Cable is adjusted ok. Also it seems that when taking off from a stop that the friction zone does not end until the lever is fully released. I just thought the clutch was about done? and I was planning on new springs while I was in there.
Click to expand...
Classic case of weak springs. Just order new springs and a gasket.

If you do the job while the bike is on the side stand, you don't even need to drain the oil. \\:D/


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Hey I'll try springs first, Heck of a lot cheaper and money left for other things on the list.
 
Is there any truth to the rumor that synthetic oil will cause wet clutch slippage ?
 
Synthetic oil with friction modifiers may cause wet clutch slippage. Mobil 1 has the modifiers, Castrol Syntec does not. I use the Castrol Syntec in 10/40w and it's great - faster revving, cooler engine, slicker shifting gearbox, and no clutch slippage.

Look on the back of the bottle of oil. If it says "Energy Conserving", steer clear.

API_donut.gif
 
Last edited:
bonanzadave said:
Is there any truth to the rumor that synthetic oil will cause wet clutch slippage ?
Click to expand...

Thats what I have heard. Especially friction modified. Iv'e had no problems with synthetic Motorcycle oil. I'm running spectro conventional in this bike. No telling what was in it before.
 
And no matter what anyone tells you, never run additives like Slick 50 in your oil. The only thing you need to put in your engine is fresh, high-quality oil. Friend of mine nearly ruined his Virago trying out different "snake oil" additives, he had to replace the clutch and flush his engine. Never did stop the slight clattering in the rear head, though. He ended up selling it and getting a Valkyrie, which he only runs Kawachem oil through.

Myself, I run Castrol GTX 10w40.
 
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