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Clutch replacement diy

  • Thread starter Thread starter JunkKing
  • Start date Start date
J

JunkKing

Guest
Hey guys, so the clutch on my 1980 GS550 is on its way out and ill have to be doing it soon. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but this will be my first time doing a clutch on a motorcycle. Where can I find to guide to help me along if I get stuck?
 
There should be detailed instructions in the workshop manual.

Soak the new friction plates in oil for a few hours before you put them in.
 
Also, if you leave the bike on the side stand, you will not need to drain the oil before removing the clutch cover.

.
 
I'm just asking, as if you are not too familiar with motorcycle mechanics, why you think the clutch plates need replacing?

These bikes have very very good clutches. I've never seen one with worn plates - although I'm sure there are some out there.

Have you adjusted the clutch actuator arm and the cables correctly? Have you filled the engine with synthetic oil? Do you have fuel leaking into your sump? Check these first before you replace anything unnecessarily.
 
On my 850, I only put in a new spring set, and they are so much stronger I only replaced every other one, just three out of the six. No problems at all. Find out if the 1981 GS850 uses the same springs, I could send you the other three.
 
londonboards said:
Have you filled the engine with synthetic oil?
Click to expand...
Why do you think that this makes a difference? We have FIVE motorcycles active in the stable. Four of them are GSes. ALL of the bikes are running synthetic oil. NO PROBLEMS.



wymple said:
On my 850, I only put in a new spring set, and they are so much stronger I only replaced every other one, just three out of the six. No problems at all. Find out if the 1981 GS850 uses the same springs, I could send you the other three.
Click to expand...
Apparently those are not stock springs. Yes, many get the "heavy-duty" springs, then just put in half of them to ease the pull on the lever. Personally, I would rather use the proper springs and use all of them to spread the load around the disks.

.
 
I don't have a problem running synthetic oil in my Lear Jet. But in my little Japanese internal combustion engine, I'll use the oil the engine was designed to run. Regular non synthetic Dino oil. 👍
 
londonboards said:
I'm just asking, as if you are not too familiar with motorcycle mechanics, why you think the clutch plates need replacing?

These bikes have very very good clutches. I've never seen one with worn plates - although I'm sure there are some out there.

Have you adjusted the clutch actuator arm and the cables correctly? Have you filled the engine with synthetic oil? Do you have fuel leaking into your sump? Check these first before you replace anything unnecessarily.
Click to expand...

I've tried adjusting it a few times and although I could feel the difference the adjustment makes the clutch just always feels worn. It's always had its catch point right at the end and now it started slipping on hard acceleration.
The bike has about 20,000 miles and I know the previous owner wasn't the best at riding, she probably wasn't very easy on the clutch.
 
Just curious if you adjusted the clutch per the service manual. My son told me his 83 KZ1100 needed a new clutch because it slipped on hard acceleration. Bike only has 19k miles so first thing I did was loosen the cable so it had max slack. Then per the Service manual started the adjustment at the clutch and moved my way up. No more slipping under had acceleration and saved him a couple of hundred dollars.

Please don't be offended but you admitted that you are new to motorcycle mechanics. That is why we are suggesting a proper, per the manual, clutch adjustment before you start replacing expensive parts. It costs nothing and if it still slips? Well at least you know you exhausted all of the cheap and easy stuff first.
 
storm 64 said:
I don't have a problem running synthetic oil in my Lear Jet. But in my little Japanese internal combustion engine, I'll use the oil the engine was designed to run. Regular non synthetic Dino oil. 
Click to expand...

I used synthetic oil in the 1000E when I owned it, didn't have any problems, bikes seem to run hotter in Florida because it's generally hotter, so I felt it could handle the heat
better.
 
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