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Clutch Slipage question...

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheCafeKid
  • Start date Start date
T

TheCafeKid

Guest
So my 1100G slips a bit. Seems more likely to do it at higher RPM than down low. Just turned over 34,100 on the till, dunno if either have ever been changed for sure, but am i more likely to find its the springs rather than the discs, or both, or discs? Anyone help? Thanks :)


TCK
 
You can put some spark plug crush washers(or other washers of correct diameter)behind the springs to shim them. I have done this MANY times on street bikes & still use shims behind the springs to set the static pressure to where I want it on my dragbike clutch. Ray.
 
taking the cover off and inspecting the clutch isnt that difficult and should give you a clearer picture
- if the plates are in spec - you need new springs or shim the existing ones
- if the plates are worn, well - you need new plates (but maybe the springs as well)
 
My experience with clutch slippage on 2 GSs now:
- was at higher milage, like 60- 70 K
- clutch plate thickness still in spec, but friction materail hard/brittle.
- springs barley in spec, but replaced them anyway.
- replaced friction plates and springs, OH what a difference. Must have been slipping much more than I knew.
 
hey tck,

i just replaced my springs on my 78 750 the other day, springs were out of spec, plates were still good. super easy, cheap, (almost as cheap as washers). havent tried them out yet, but i was getting some slipping before, i hope i dont now. 35 k on the clock. btw....i dont know if our springs are the same size, but.....i have 3 ebc springs leftover, i went with 3 ebc and 3 stock, if they fit, and you want em, they are yours, i wont need new ones for another 30000 or so.....lemme know,

btw, nice lookin bikes, and thanks for the good threads,

greg
 
i had some clutch slippage and, after finding all parts to be within specs, solved the problem by using bike oil instead of car oil.
 
i just replaced all 6 springs on my 82 gs1100gl, and it really did help. the clutch handle is pretty stiff now, but for my driving style its ok with me. i used ebc springs, csk6 im pretty sure. but it def doesnt slip now. it just slips the tire haha.
 
Springs and fibers are all you need. The steels should be fine.
 
Springs compressed for thirty years are going to be weak.
Plates, it depends on a lot of factors. They can last a very long time, they can be burned up in an hour.
Usually replacing springs will do a lot of good.

Start with springs, if it doesn't do it it's not much effort to go in again and replace the plates.
 
I replaced the springs and it made a difference. It's always different with everyone who rides. I guess you just have to open it up and inspect. But if you are going to order a clutch kit, def get new springs as well.:-D
 
I hope I can jump on this thread! I have a situation with my clutch. It doesn't want to engage until my hand is about all the way off the lever. If I pull in a 1/4 inch it is disengaged. I did put a new clutch cable on and adjusted it per the manual and it seemed fine at first but now it is getting way out to the end. Does this sound like springs or plates....or both? Can I shim the springs? Is that done by putting washers behind the springs?.....No more questions your honor. For now...:-)

Sorry if I jumped on the thread but I didn't want to start a new one.

Thanks!
 
Started an oil change tonight and was gonna slide in some new clutch springs cause I have some slipage. The Barnett clutch plates are shot (17K mi). I put that clutch in at 20K mi. (stock plates grenaded) and now Im at 37K mi.

Ive been using Valvoline 10w40 (car oil !!!:shock:) Do you think that had anything to do with the early demise of this clutch ?
 
Well, Steve and I did my clutch springs today, yes they finally arrived, later than I had needed, but they are here and in. At some point, since BassCliff doesnt have it up on his site as a tutorial, I think we will submit it to him, as we took detailed pics of the steps involved. Anyway, I think some of this should answer some of your questions.


On the clutch pull action. My clutch was much the same way. Pulling away from a stop, the clutch didnt seem to engage untill the lever was nearly all the way out. I have been working on some of my "friction zone" technique, and the sloppy/slippy clutch action made this difficult. Once the new springs were installed, the difference in the action was night and day. Its almost INSTANT in engage and disengage. Amazing power delivery differnce too. It started raining pretty bad so i didnt get it out on the road to check it out yet, but its DEFINATELY alot better.

I dont know what would cause your plates to wear so quickly. I am betting that the plates in my 82 are stock or havent been replaced in a while, but i mic-ed them and they are well over tollerances. I dont think car oil would make a difference. As far as i know the only difference is anti foaming additives? I guess this could contribute but i doubt it. I would think perhaps running on bad springs could cause premature wear, but as i have been explained, the springs are usually first to wear out.
 
TheCafeKid said:
I would think perhaps running on bad springs could cause premature wear, but as i have been explained, the springs are usually first to wear out.
Click to expand...

That make sense to me. I ran the stock springs with the Barnett clutch.

What is the thickness spec ?

Get those pic up ASAP !! I need em !
 
Depends on the bike as far as thickness spec. Which bike?? they vary even from the 850G 1000G and 1100G
 
TheCafeKid said:
Depends on the bike as far as thickness spec. Which bike?? they vary even from the 850G 1000G and 1100G
Click to expand...

Just wondering what the Barnett plates would be. Ray told me they are thin to begin with and can cause gouges in the basket (mine have started). 10 plates and steels instead of 9.
 
I would go back to stock personally. I dont see any problem with mine at all, and ive been riding on bad springs for a few weeks, and its likely been that way for the last couple thou its put on it. These plates are all about 2.94 and min was 2.6, so im good for a while yet it seems.
 
I run stock fibers with Barnett HD springs. I did the three stock and three Barnett but it slipped.
Fibers should be between 2.9 to 3.1.
 
chef1366 said:
I run stock fibers with Barnett HD springs. I did the three stock and three Barnett but it slipped.
Fibers should be between 2.9 to 3.1.
Click to expand...
Well the shop manual said Minimum was 2.6. So i feel pretty safe at 2.94. You didnt like the Barnett fibres at all?
 
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