Clutch slipping? Or needs adjustment?

[gkoeber]

Bike: 1982 GS750TZ that has been modified to a cafe racer..... Has been great therapy for son and myself as he readjusts with PTSD back into "normal life"


We recently have rebuilt the bike so the clutch cable was off and has been reattached to hand lever and the arm release that attaches to the splined bolt sticking up out of clutch case cover on right hand side.. I had turned the splined bolt all the way clockwise then attached the arm release - The clutch works and engages and disengages but I think it might need to be adjusted or tweaked? Or maybe I need new springs from researching other posts on this forum?

Is there a video or procedure to adjust? I have read the PDF provided on the BikeClifs site but haven't found a really good picture or procedure on what I will need to adjust or tweak.

any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

[Gorminrider]

I take out all adjustment at the handlever, then adjust the case-adjustment so it just wiggles loose-IE clutch engaged plus a mm or so...then, the handlever so it also has a a bit of play. If no play, readjust the case-adjustment....

If you follow the shop manual, it usually works ok....sometimes a manual for a different Suzuki has a different description and clearer pictures that might help....Parts are often the same across suzukis...

I think the 850 on Bass-cliffs has the clearest pictures...same pull-arm-type clutch as a 650 and likely yours -shaft or not...and the list of contents is actually "linked" and text might be searcheable too...Pictures get smeared on other home-made pdf manuals especially where they are just pngs compressed and called a "pdf"

The 850manual- It's ABOVE the rest of the manuals- not in the actual list

I've never needed new springs. If they are are all specified length and the same, they work for me.

 

[rphillips]

Can adjust cable from either end, Main thing be sure there is slight free play in cable, that assures cable isn't restricting the clutch engagement.

 

[Guest]

Use the adjustment at the case for the primary adjustment, fine tune it at the clutch lever adjustment. My clutch cable has 3 adjustment sites, the case arm, a screw adjuster in the middle of the cable and at the lever. Make sure your case lever arm is at the proper position for adjustment.

 

[gkoeber]

Make sure your case lever arm is at the proper position for adjustment.[/QUOTE]

Would that be 90 degrees to the clutch cover case?

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Grimly]

Make sure your case lever arm is at the proper position for adjustment.

Would that be 90 degrees to the clutch cover case?

Thanks for the advice.[/QUOTE]

Not sure about the 750, but on the 850 it's slightly outwards past 90degrees. Probably one spline outwards, iirc.

 

[Rob S.]

Make sure your case lever arm is at the proper position for adjustment.

Would that be 90 degrees to the clutch cover case?[/QUOTE]

The $64,000 question. Now is when you could use photos from before.

 

[Steve]

Several points to keep in mind, then you should be able to work out the details that link them.

1. Start adjustment at the clutch lever. Turn it IN to give maximum play in the cable.
2. If you have an adjuster in the middle of the cable (not all do), adjust that for maximum play.
3. Where the cable attaches at the engine, adjust that for maximum play, as well.
4. The arm should be just past 90?, so it's right at the 90? mark as you pull the lever.
5. Adjust the arm on its spline, if necessary, then make adjustments as you go up the cable.
6. Adjust at the engine mount to take out most of the play.
7. If that wasn't enough adjustment, take up more slack at the middle adjuster.
8. Finish and fine-tune the adjustment at the lever.

By starting with the lever adjuster IN, you will be able to compensate for wear in the cable liner.

If your clutch still slips, you might need new springs. Just get OEM springs, NOT "heavy-duty" springs. Six new springs and a gasket from Suzuki are usually about $30.

.

 

[Guest]

This is the correct position for the clutch arm.

 

[Redman]

regardless of details of which adjuster used, what angle the arm is : if the cable has free play such that not pulling on the arm, and the clutch is slipping, then the problem is not the cable adjustment.

Tell us how and when you notice the clutch slipping.


The manaul has "free length" service limit specifications for the springs. Measure the length they expand out to when you get them out of the clutch. If longer than the spec, they need to be replaced. If they are original yet, they will probably need to be replaced.

The manual has friction plate thickness service limits listed. I guess the thought was if they wear out they get thinner. My experience is that they also get hard and brittle and not so much "friction" anymore, with age and use and heat, even if within the thickness service limit. SO even if the friction plates within the thickness service limit, do inspect the friction material to see if is hard and glazzed over.

.

 

[gkoeber]

Thanks everyone for the advice on this matter. Problem is resolved!

I re-adjusted the clutch cable as per the instructions in this thread and finally was able to take it out and confirm that the clutch was not slipping in 5th gear.

The cable previously had been adjusted without enough slack and therefore was engaging clutch partially causing the clutch to slip under heavy load.

 

[Admiral Beez]

I usually change gear at 5,000 rpm, but I?ve been trying to test peak hp and torque for my ?82 GS650G, which means running up to 9,000 rpm. I find at over 6,500 rpm the clutch slips, suddenly roaring the motor to over 9,000 rpm before catching again and returning to 6,500 to 7,500 rpm. It only happens intermittently but it can be a surprise.​

 

[Nessism]

I usually change gear at 5,000 rpm, but I’ve been trying to test peak hp and torque for my ‘82 GS650G, which means running up to 9,000 rpm. I find at over 6,500 rpm the clutch slips, suddenly roaring the motor to over 9,000 rpm before catching again and returning to 6,500 to 7,500 rpm. It only happens intermittently but it can be a surprise.​

Do you have free play at the hand lever? If not, you need some. Assuming you have free play and the clutch still slips that suggests that new clutch springs are in order. It's a cheap and easy maintenance task. Hard part is waiting on the parts to arrive. You will need new OEM springs and a clutch cover gasket.