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Clutch slipping or something else?

  • Thread starter Thread starter scottyknows50
  • Start date Start date
S

scottyknows50

Guest
Riding my bike today anytime I would try to accelerate quickly in the same gear the rpms would really seem to jump while the bike would barely go faster. It would all seem to "catch up" but it almost seemed like the bike was free revving and then catching later. Just changed oil but the previous owner had left the petcock on "prime." Would any leftover gas cause the clutch to slip? I used Rotella diesel oil. 15w-40

Thanks.
 
Sounds like the clutch is slipping. Since you have the proper oil and it is fresh, I doubt you have fuel in the oil. Either weak springs (replace with OEM springs) and/or worn plates (measure thickness with calipers or micrometer). If they are within tolerance, knock any glaze off them and reinstall.
 
So to be safe- replace springs, friction plates, and a new gasket. Anything else needed?

Thanks!
 
I was experiencing some slip on my first few rides of the season, but it seemed to go away (my theory only) as the clutch got more use, or warmer, or both. Also happened right after I changed the oil, but then went away with use. I also adjusted it to make sure it was closing completely, but not so far as to make neutral unattainable. Seems to be rock solid now. (again, I'm a novice - just relating my experience)

Have you tried adjusting it yet? Any play at the handle?
 
General forum is to try the springs first, assuming the plates are in spec (which is likely). You can always do the plates later if the clutch still slips.
 
Nessism said:
General forum is to try the springs first, assuming the plates are in spec (which is likely). You can always do the plates later if the clutch still slips.
Click to expand...
Agreed. I already bought a set for mine (springs only) for when it starts slipping again.

Scotty - how many miles on your bike? Original clutch?
 
While you are in there it does no harm to spec the steels and fibers. Get a caliper and a manual for the specs.
I buy a set of Barnett HD springs and scatter them with the stock springs three and three. EBC springs also work well.
Also get a gasket.
 
The springs are almost certainly shorter than when they were new. Plate wear depends entirely on the PO. Springs are cheap, plates are not. Super easy to go in twice if necessary, don't even have to drain the oil. Eight or so screws and you're in.
If they are within spec no need to replace, unless they have been ruined by some wierd oil or by too much slipping, or you just love to spend money needlessly.
 
A-train said:
Agreed. I already bought a set for mine (springs only) for when it starts slipping again.

Scotty - how many miles on your bike? Original clutch?
Click to expand...

Bike has about 23,000 miles- no idea if the clutch is original or not.
 
Can't seem to find the gasket except in the Barnett complete kit on ebay ($180).
Order directly from Suzuki?
 
scottyknows50 said:
Can't seem to find the gasket except in the Barnett complete kit on ebay ($180).
Order directly from Suzuki?
Click to expand...

Nevermind, found one.

BTW- there is no slack in the clutch cable- as soon as I am pulling the lever the little arm down below is moving.

Thanks guys.
 
You should have some slack. This makes sure the clutch is fully released.
Curt
 
scottyknows50 said:
Good to know, this could be part of my problem then.

Thanks.
Click to expand...


If there's no slack in the cable it can't help but slip easier. Exactly like riding along with your fingers pulling on the lever part way all the time. The clutch is partially disengaged all the time, a little of the spring tension is taken off the plates.
It may be 100% of your problem, at least it was until the clutch plates started to burn up from too much slipping.

It also wears out the lever, the perch, the cable, all of the parts along the way from the lever to the clutch plates.
 
scottyknows50 said:
Nevermind, found one.

BTW- there is no slack in the clutch cable- as soon as I am pulling the lever the little arm down below is moving.

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

I hope that gasket you bought is an actual OEM and not a OEM look alike. I bought one and it WOULD NOT SEAL, thickness was wrong. Bought the OEM and no problems since. Yeah, you got to have that specified slack in the cable for the clutch to totally release, if not, there is constant release pressure on the clutch and that will cause slipping and other nasties.
 
Last edited:
Previous owner replaced the clutch cable before me- guess I should have checked that out.
 
Well, tried adjusting the cable to get a bit of slack and I don't know what I messed up now. There is a bit of slack in the cable now but now my clutch is MUCH easier to pull than before and won't engage all the way. If I put the bike in 1st and pull on the clutch lever I can't roll the bike. I assume it's the clutch springs that give the pressure you feel on the cable? I have new ones coming but I'm not sure why I can't pull my clutch in all the way now.
 
You won't be able to roll the bike with the engine not running, bike in first gear, clutch pulled in. Not gonna happen, even if it is functioning properly. Unless you are really, really determined. And strong. And headed downhill.
 
Well, it stays engaged no matter what now.

I tried what I believe tkent? said in another post- try to ride the bike in first with the clutch lever pulled in giving it some throttle trying to loosen the clutch plates. Rode it around the farm as much as I dared but it didn't seem to do any good.
 
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