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clutch/transmission question

  • Thread starter Thread starter nabrams
  • Start date Start date
N

nabrams

Guest
Hi All,

I've been enjoying my 1980 GS450L. There's something odd that I noticed. When the bike is on the center stand and the transmission is in neutral, the rear wheel spins vigorously, even after the bike has been ridden for over a half hour. If I pull the clutch it stops spinning. Even when I put it into first gear and pull the clutch, the wheel stops spinning. If I stop the wheel with my foot (while in neutral), the wheel starts to spin again ater I release it.

Now I know these are "wet" clutches, but shouldn't the fact that it's in neutral mean there's absolutely NO torque being tansmitted to the drive sprocket?

Also, maybe this has something to do with the fact that it's sometimes difficult to get the bike into first gear when the bike is at a full stop. I've changed the oil very recently, and the clutch is clearly disengaging, so this has me perplexed. I read the post about some others having difficulty shifting, but in those instances it seemed that their clutch wasn't properly disengaging.

Any info/advice is appreciated.

Thanks
 
I think a lot of us have the same sort of problem. When I put my 400 into 1st before leaving my place my bike clunks into gear after a lot of growling :P My solution is to pull the clutch in and out while rolling the bike back and forth while. This usually works and at the least it lessens the noise/damage to the drive train while going into gear.

I don't know why this happens as I've never looked at the schematics for the bike too closely. What I can tells you is that I have a concauction of oil that is partly 10w30 and 10w40 from 3 different companies in my engine and it does make it worse. I did this because I had some extra oil arround and I have been changing my oil every 2 gas tanks during the winter...

Steve
 
clutch/transmission question

Have you checked the clutch cable adjustment?

When you pull the clutch lever measure the distance between the clutch lever mounting bracket and the front of the clutch lever where the cable is attached to the clutch lever. You should be able to pull the clutch lever ~ 2 - 3 mm (.08-.012 in) before you feel any pressure of the clutch springs. If the distance is LESS than what is listed above you need to use the kurled adjuster on the cable to get the 2 - 3 mm freeplay.

If you do have the proper amount of freeplay how far do you have to pull it in to get the rear wheel from spinning?

Jay
 
Yes, my clutch is adjusted to spec (about 3mm free-play at the lever). The wheel stops spinning at 3/4 (or more, of course) pull of the clutch lever, so clearly my clutch plates are disengaging fully when the lever is pulled. Especially since this spinning stops even when the bike is in gear with the lever pulled. This is really wierd.
 
No, There is always some "drag" from just the fact that it is a wet clutch. The oil keeps things pretty sticky in the clutch housing. When your bike is in neutral and running, the " flywheel" is still turning, so some movement is transferred via the clutch plates to the back wheel. It all sounds normal to me. The difficulty getting into 1st could be due to worn parts or something worse. Is it hard to get into 1st when the motor is not running? Have you replaced everything from the lever to the engine? New cables are cheap insurance. Adjust the clutch at the housing referring to a manual. Hope it helps.

Paul
www.nastyracing.ca
 
Thanks for the ifo Paul. It's nice to know that.
Also, with the motor off and the bike on the center stand, it will not shift into gear even with the clutch lever pulled. This is a little odd for me. On other bikes I've had, I'd be able to shift into first gear (with the engine off) even without pulling the clutch lever. I have a minor oil leak near the gear shift lever, but this is common to all the bikes I've had. Maybe something is wrong with the shift mechanism under the crankcase cover? I hope not. I really don't want to struggle getting that thing off (I had to do that on another bike I had - what a hassle!!).
 
I think I'd still be tempted to replace the cable & make the adjustment at the engine first, but you're right, you might want to remove the cover and look at the rachetting mechanism. It's not hard to remove the outer cover & you can see how everything inside it moves as you push on the gear lever. Otherwise you might have to tear down your motor to look at a bent shift fork another fairly common gs problem if the bike has been abused.
Paul
 
whats the difference between adjusting at engine cover or at the hand lever ? both do the exact same thing: adjust cable tension

am i missing something ?

im doing clutch cable replacement hopefully tommorrow, is why i ask.


thanks!
randy
 
When the bike is on the center stand and the transmission is in neutral, the rear wheel spins vigorously, even after the bike has been ridden for over a half hour. If I pull the clutch it stops spinning.
Click to expand...
This is not a clutch problem as you stated it. The clutch is disengaging properly when pulled. When idling with the clutch out - it is fully engaged. The tranmission is using the viscosity of the fluid to transmit some power to the rear wheel. You can stop the tire with your foot, so obviously there isn't a lot getting by.

Also, with the motor off and the bike on the center stand, it will not shift into gear even with the clutch lever pulled.
Click to expand...
Try this - When on the ground, rock your bike forwad and back while trying to engage first. If it shifts into first this way, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
fast68 said:
whats the difference between adjusting at engine cover or at the hand lever ? both do the exact same thing: adjust cable tension

am i missing something ?

im doing clutch cable replacement hopefully tommorrow, is why i ask.


thanks!
randy
Click to expand...
Screw the lever adjustment all the way in. Install cable. Adjust new cable at case. This way, you can fine tune the adjustment at the lever as the cable stretches. It makes it easier as you don't have to drag out any wrenches. 8)
 
mcycle-nut said:
fast68 said:
whats the difference between adjusting at engine cover or at the hand lever ? both do the exact same thing: adjust cable tension

am i missing something ?

im doing clutch cable replacement hopefully tommorrow, is why i ask.


thanks!
randy
Click to expand...
Screw the lever adjustment all the way in. Install cable. Adjust new cable at case. This way, you can fine tune the adjustment at the lever as the cable stretches. It makes it easier as you don't have to drag out any wrenches. 8)
Click to expand...


awesome, thanks :D
 
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