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Clutch wont disengage?

  • Thread starter Thread starter dossbag
  • Start date Start date
D

dossbag

Guest
I can't get used to these threads being backasswards?? :confused:

Anyway.. I replaced my 1980 GS550E shifter shaft.. which meant removing the clutch, replacing the shifter shaft, and replacing the clutch now when I run the bike and hit 1st, the clutch wont disengage.? I stuck my foot under the rear wheel to see if it would slip a little.. but it didn't. I adjusted it out so far I heard it hit the clutch cover!! :eek: It was working fine before I removed/replaced... :( - should I try it up against a solid wall? Has worked before.. Just wary it might be something else.

Sorry if this is a repeat question.. My searches are not the most accurate.

Thanks for any help
 
Hi blowerbike.. Thanks for the quick reply..

I tried it in, out and in-between.. I had it splitting the plates so far that they hit the cover case and freaked me right out. The basket looked fine, no indents at all.. Having worked on a few Triumphs, I am aware of that issue.

I don't get it!? :|
 
put free play in the cable at the bars.
run worm adjuster in till it just lightly touches and then back out one turn.
lock nut back down without the adjuster moving.
re-adjust at the bars.
this is the problem or you have the clutch/basket/plates/washer installed wrong.
 
I'd turn the cable adjusters in before adjusting the helix. When adjusting do as Blowerbike suggests, only I'd try 1/8 turn back off, 1/4 max.
 
And then go into User CP and Edit Profile. You'll be able to edit how the threads are displayed and how many posts per page (go to 40, you'll like it).
 
Quick Q though..

I would have thought turning the screw IN more would have made the clutch more likely to disengage? I had it well in. Doing these steps would mean screwing it out more. Or am I missing something? :rolleyes:

I'm now worried that I don't have the clutch parts back in correctly.. :o
 
do as you was recommended to do.
if that does not work then disassemble what you had taken a part before and start over.
the reason i say "1 turn out" is that their are a lot of people riding around with the pressure plate loaded and having clutch slip at certain times.
if everything is correct 1 turn is no different than 1/2 a turn.
the adjuster just can not have contact with the worm pusher part when the clutch is engaged because the clutch pack will never fully lock up.
it's simple once you look at the parts and how they work..
helix...helix unger? hahahaha
 
well.. I dissembled again.. oil pump drive gear notches weren't seated correctly. That explains a LOT. All good now.. Quite the pain to get those lined up.. Oil everywhere lol just got back from a great test run, as this is Michigan, i'm not sure I will have many more chances to play.

Very Happy :)

Thanks everyone for taking the time here.

Jeff
 
dossbag said:
well.. I dissembled again.. oil pump drive gear notches weren't seated correctly. That explains a LOT. All good now.. Quite the pain to get those lined up.. Oil everywhere lol just got back from a great test run, as this is Michigan, i'm not sure I will have many more chances to play.

Very Happy :)

Thanks everyone for taking the time here.

Jeff
Click to expand...

that makes it direct drive.... always spin the inner hub after impacting the large nut....if it won't spin then something is wrong (direct drive)..if it spins then load the clutch pack and impact again and fold the tab over.
now adjust the cable and worm like i told you!T!!!!!!!!
LOL
 
Last edited:
blowerbike said:
that makes it direct drive.... always spin the inner hub after impacting the large nut....if it won't spin then something is wrong (direct drive)..if it spins then load the clutch pack and impact again and fold the tab over.
now adjust the cable and worm like i told you!T!!!!!!!!
LOL
Click to expand...

I did I did.. :)

Thanks again..
 
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