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coil mod question

  • Thread starter Thread starter SeanMora77
  • Start date Start date
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SeanMora77

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So I did the coil mod relay yesterday and I ran the ground back to the battery box. I am getting no spark at all, is this why? If so where should I run the ground?
 
SeanMora77 said:
So I did the coil mod relay yesterday and I ran the ground back to the battery box. I am getting no spark at all, is this why? If so where should I run the ground?
Click to expand...

The solenoid ground for the relay almost doesn't matter as long as you have something. 6V will typically switch the relay, so if you are working with 12V you can have a pretty crappy ground and still work. You could have put it frame ground local to the relay.

Check the relay connections to make sure all is as expected. If you cut the Orange /White then make sure the ignitor is still being powered.

I usually power the entire ignition circuit from the relay.
 
(coil relay mod) ha ha. I just woke up after being up till 5am scratching my head. I followed the instructions I found to a T, the O/W wires that go back into the harness were hard wired (soldered) together and attached to the relay on #86. Same for the other side that powers the coils, attached to #87, and of course the power goes to #30. When I turn the key and turn the switch to RUN I can hear the relay click, so I know it's engaging. Ill try running the ground straight to the battery. Thanks guys
 
When I turn the key and kill switch on, I get a reading of 0.40 at the coil? I have the power connected to the post on the starter relay that goes to the starter, not the one straight from the battery+. I had it hooked to the battery+ post originally and when I turned the kill switch to run the relay started humming. I switched it to the other post and the sound stopped.
 
SeanMora77 said:
I have the power connected to the post on the starter relay that goes to the starter, not the one straight from the battery+.
Click to expand...
If you have your power lead connected to the starter wire, you will only have power to the coils while you are pushing on the starter button.

Your connections sound OK, but there is still just a little bit of doubt in my mind. The orange/white wire that used to power the coils should be connected to #85 or #86 on the relay. Connect the other one to a good ground (chassis or battery). Connect a power wire (battery or the battery terminal on the solenoid) to #30 and connect #87 to the coils.

The doubt in my mind is your orange'white wires. You say they go into the harness, but it's possible that they are the ones that go to the coils, not from the fuse box. Of the four wires connected to the relay, two of them should be the original orange/white wire that was cut. Remove them from the relay. Use a test light or a meter to see which one of them goes ON and OFF with the ignition key. Put that one on #86, put the other one on #87. Connect a ground to #85, power to #30, you should be good.

.
 
Here is what I did, and mind you I found this on bike cliffs "my coil relay mod story". I opened up the harness and traced the orange white wires that plug into the coils down to where they were joined in the harness under a piece of red tape. I cut that junction out and stripped the wires on both sides so I had 4 bare wire ends, two that went to the coils and the other two that go to the kill switch, or back into the harness. I joined the two that go to the coils to one 16 gauge red wire and the other two that go to the kill switch to another 16 gauge red wire and plugged them into the relay accordingly. Are you telling me that the two wires that presumably go back to the kill switch should be separated? Bikecliff threw out a disclaimer about how he saw that one of those wires was left disconnected on the diagram he saw, but he left them joined and the killswitch worked anyway. I know this is a simple procedure and I can't believe I'm having this much difficulty with it. I just connected the power wire directly to the battery+ and when I turn the key and killswitch to run the relay starts humming again? Has to be something simple Im missing here, but Im no electrical whiz.
 
If the two coil wires were joined and you cut out the junction, wouldn't there only be three wires? :-k

Regardless, if all three or four wires were originally connected and you split them apart, it would be proper to put the relay between them, as long as the power IN comes to #85 or 86 and #87 continues to the coils.

.
 
That the thing Steve, there is no point where the two orange and white wires were joined to one wire. There was only a point where they were stripped and coupled with a small brass looking coupler thing, then wrapped in a piece of red tape. Looked factory to me. My battery is now under 12v and I have to go to work soon so I wont be able to do anything else until late tonight or tomorrow. Thanks again
 
GateKeeper said:
did you find something like this

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1733842&postcount=182

.
Click to expand...

I did it this way and never had to open up the harness under the gas tank. Simpy cut the O/W at the connector from the right hand switch and power the whole ignition circuit from the igniter connector. This was using a Dyna-S but the concept works and you dont need to wire a relay under the tank where reliability is compromised.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141055&highlight=coil+relay+mod
 
picture.php
picture.php
picture.php
Hopefully you can see what I have going on here.
The two Orange white wires are running from the harness into the plastic connector.
 
Would it be safe to say that if the mod isn't working that I have interrupted the wrong o/w wire?
 
SeanMora77 said:
Would it be safe to say that if the mod isn't working that I have interrupted the wrong o/w wire?
Click to expand...

No?Why should it? There are probably many ways to screw it up. Double check all connections and then verify the operation of all signals at the relay. If that checks move to the coils. Make sure the ignitor is signalling (- side of coil goes high and low)
 
Well, because everything else is pretty cut and dry. I've got a ground, a +from the battery, and two wires that go to the coils. I unwrapped the harness farther down and found the second orange and white wire. There are two of them. One of them has to be the right one, and one of them has to be the wrong one, no? If it doesn't matter which one than I have no idea what the problem is because I've gone over it a hundred times.
 
SeanMora77 said:
Well, because everything else is pretty cut and dry. I've got a ground, a +from the battery, and two wires that go to the coils. I unwrapped the harness farther down and found the second orange and white wire. There are two of them. One of them has to be the right one, and one of them has to be the wrong one, no? If it doesn't matter which one than I have no idea what the problem is because I've gone over it a hundred times.
Click to expand...

You check which one with a volt meter. Put the meter on the 20V scale and ground the black lead. Put the red lead on one of the Q/W wires. Now turn on the key and the Kill switch: Does it go to 12V? If not try the other one. When you see 12V with key on and kill switch on that is the one that goes to the solenoid(pin 86) on the relay.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...a=X&ei=b-iSUeGJCNTB4APl-YHoBg&ved=0CG4Q9QEwAg
 
Wow. OK, I tried what you said and the wire in question was the correct wire. I soldered a lead to it and plugged it into the relay and Im still getting nothing. The motor will turn over, but still no spark from the coils. Getting that sinking feeling here guys. I know this is childsplay to you guys but I've never done this before and Im afraid Im going to screw something up beyond repair. I don't know what to do next.
 
SeanMora77 said:
Wow. OK, I tried what you said and the wire in question was the correct wire. I soldered a lead to it and plugged it into the relay and Im still getting nothing. The motor will turn over, but still no spark from the coils. Getting that sinking feeling here guys. I know this is childsplay to you guys but I've never done this before and Im afraid Im going to screw something up beyond repair. I don't know what to do next.
Click to expand...

The only tests for the Relay are:

A.) The O/W input on pin 86 (with ground connected on pin 85) goes hot with the ignition on and Kill switch ON. (This is what you are saying works) Yes?? :confused:

B.) So next you verified that pin 87 goes to 12V when the kill switch is on with the ignition switch on? If you have the Battery (+) wired to Pin 30 this will be so. Yes?? :confused:

Watch Out because 87a will be the opposite of 87 so when Key off it will be hot.

If B.) Checks out then test the coils.

C.) 12V on the + side of both coils follows the same ignition and kill switch combination.

D.) The minus (-) side of the coil (the one connected to the ignitor) will alternate between +12V and about 0.5 volts
as you crank the engine over
 
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