Coil relay mod end all thread!!!!

[80GS750]

here guys, i have made an illustration for an end all thread to the coil relay...

if you have any questions, just ask, but the purpose of this thread is for future reference and clarification questions.

BUY A 4 POST RELAY, THEY ARE CHEAP, AND ARE EASILY AVAILABLE.

post 85- ground to the frame somwhere, or back to the battery negative post if close enough

post 86- kill switch... this is the orange wires that used to go to the coils, you will have to cut the wires to intercept them and route them to this post on the relay, they are orange and white on most GS's, run either one from the kill switch, or both of them if you wish, it makes no difference.

post 87- run this to both coils via the orange and white wires that already went to them, where you cut them off just wire them to this post. both of them, both wires go here, splice them together wherever you want, or run two wires to this post, whichever works best for you.

post 30- run this to the battery positive post, but you should put in an in line fuse first. put the fuse holder within 6-8" of the battery post, this assures there will be no shorts between it and the battery, and you wont have a melt down. if you dont put in a fused link, you leave potential to have a wire short out and melt down your bike or burn it up.... bad stuff.


heres a diagram

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m164/JenNate03/GS1000/COILRELAYMOD.jpg

 

[80GS750]

 

[Chris Hagen]

Wired mine up last weekend, Definitely made a difference. Used to need the choke in the morning.

 

[p_s]

Anyone else had reliability problems with these relays? I was using a relay to bypass my crusty ignition switch. The first two (Bosch) burnt out in 3 blocks (but worked fine on the centerstand, even at redline). The third (no-name cheapo) burnt out merging onto a freeway but gave 3500 miles of service first. On all three the wire from one of the posts to the coil broke. On all three I was cruising at ~ 3k rpm. I've decided to replace electrical components in the future instead of bypassing them with relays. It was a failure from vibration and shock, not an electrical issue. I had mounted them on zipties tied to the chassis by the battery box. Maybe I just have bad luck.

 

[NetBSD]

well im doing this mod to my gs next week hopefully, but if yer having issues with the vibration killing the relay then try mountiong it like in a car, thin strip of metal coming oput from the framer that flexes rather easy but doesnt bend. that should take care of them dieing from vibrations and shock loads


EDIT: this needs to be set sticky. good thread

 

[p_s]

Well the relays have a mounting tab on top and that was hanging on a loose zip-tie. Not touching the frame. I tried that after the first two died, maybe that's why the third lasted longer. I've given up though--not interested in wasting more money on a workaround. I was curious if I was the only one.

 

[Matchless]

Have a look at the method used to mount the flasher and turn signal canceller. They use a rubber mounting.
I would also assume that some bikes could vibrate more than others (tuning etc ?). A good automotive relay should have the wires glued down as well and is supposed to be quite vibration proof. Try genuine Bosch or Hella.

 

[Skateguy50]

nice simple and to the point, but when i read through the stuff on basscliffs site I did it a bit different to get the maximum charge to the coils.

First off I used 12gauge wire for my power in, and direct to the coils on the out. It never hits the old wire. I pulled the old clamps off the coil and removed the wire and soldered the new wire to that.

Also I grabbed the cut off mid harness just after the kill switch, not the wires going to the coils (they got cut and wrapped).

Really what could help people is some pictures of the actual mod on a bike to see... perhaps I can take some cause i didnt when I set it up.

 

[Guest]

c'mon guys, this mod isn't all that hard. i did it, and i'm an idiot.

as for the vibration killing the relay, well, if you have that much vibration in a gs, you probably have other tuning issues. i could balance a nickel on my gas tank all the way up to 9000 rpm, my 750 is so smooth.....

greg

 

[makenzie71]

I will point out that these four-pin relays need to be mounted to the frame and the wires need to be suspended. Connectors and solder points are not load-bearing.

 

[80GS750]

mine is ziptied to the frame, and my wires are all hung and ziptied to the frame as well

i soldered all my connections, so if anything kells it, it will be the vibration killing the relay only....

 

[Steve]

here guys, i have made an illustration for an end all thread to the coil relay...

I have seen many posts on how to wire this mod, just how is this one any different?
I have looked at your diagram and it seems to match every previous suggestion on how to wire the mod.

.

 

[80GS750]

your right steve... i wasnt trying to end some disagreement or settle a problem or answer a question...

its just here for people to stumble on and easily see how its supposed to work and make it work the first time, basically for ease of use and such...

so instead of reading 30 threads, you can review this one and walk away knowing how it works, and how to do it....

it took a lot of searching and researching to figure this one out, even though its pretty simple, so i made this thread to sosrt it out easily

if the thread is useless, sorry.

 

[Steve]

No problem. It just sounded like you had a new method that was better than the original.
Yes, it's good to have it all in one place, and a nice diagram, to boot.

 

[80GS750]

thanks steve!

 

[seuadr]

i don't get it.. what pins? i bought this relay locally, and i see no pins? :-?

seriously though, all you people worried about vibration killing the relay.. fork out the extra cash for a "solid state" relay. it will never wear out. ever.

 

[80GS750]

how much is a solid state relay?

 

[seuadr]

http://www.futurlec.com/RelSS.shtml

can get some here, 3-100vdc 40amps should do the trick easily, 'round 15-20 dollars. but because they have no moving parts.. they basically will never wear out interntally.

 

[80GS750]

nice..........

 

[ChrisLaw]

I soldered all my connections, so if anything kells it, it will be the vibration killing the relay only....

Vibration is the enemy of solder. I would use solder-less crimp connectors and heat shrink tubing. I just rewired my bike in this manner. Fired right up first try and because of the heat shrink, should be rather reliable.