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coil relay mod, relay question

  • Thread starter Thread starter prpldude
  • Start date Start date
P

prpldude

Guest
Ok, I decided to do the relay mod for my coils. (waiting for stator in the mail tap, tap, tap, tap must do something to bike LOL)

I was scavenging around my garage to see what wires and fuse holders I already have. I came across an old relay I forgot I had. It is from a car alarm system that never got installed. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if it will work for the relay mod application? The 87/87 diagram looks a little different on the relay than in the pictures shown in the tutorial. Also the female end has a diode and a jumper wire between 86 and 30.
here is the url to view pictures. I can only upload one picture on here for some reason.
relay1.jpg

relay2.jpg

relay3.jpg

Will these work for this mod?

Thanks,
Marc
 
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Hi,

here is the url to view pictures. I can only upload one picture on here for some reason.
Click to expand...
That's because you need to use the proper procedure and "embed" or use the "image code" in your posts to link to the pictures at your online source. More information is on my website: Posting Pictures To GSR

relay1.jpg


relay2.jpg


relay3.jpg


You can use that relay. Just don't use the 87A terminal. There are pages and pages of relay mod information on my website too. You really don't even need the socket, but they are convenient. Just use female spade terminals on the connections into the wiring harness. The 87A terminal can be used if you ever wish to power another item directly from the battery.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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Thanks BikeCliff,

I was looking for the proper way to upload/embed pics. I should have known it would be on your site LOL.

I got the tutorial to do the mod off of your website links.

I thought it would be convenient to use the female connector, since it already has all the 14awg wires coming off of it.

Should I remove the diode and jumper wire if I use the connector?

Thanks again,
Marc
 
prpldude said:
Should I remove the diode and jumper wire if I use the connector?
Click to expand...


Hmmmm,

I really should do some more research before I answer your question. I'm not really familiar with that style relay, but I would think the diode is there so that if you happen to connect two devices to 87/87A there will be no current flow from one device directly to the other. In other words, it keeps the current flowing from the battery to the devices and not "device to device".

Please wait for someone more well versed to answer that question, or pursue the documentation for that relay, before you modify the diode circuit. Sorry I can't be of more help.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Ok thanks again. ;0)
I'll wait before I use or mod the female connector.

btw I fixed the pics. :dancing:
 
leave the diode; it is there to protect the circuit that is driving the control coil.
 
posplayr, before you posted I was looking at the back of the female plug and the wires did not look like they were connecting to the ones I needed them to... sooooo... I moded the female plug and now it is they way it should be if it did not have the diode and jumper wire and connected to 87 not 87a. I should have waited (like bikecliff said) and asked you if the back of the plug looked correct to you. Thanks for your input, I know I didn't hurt anything but it might have been better the way it was LOL.

ok off to the garage to make the rest of the mods.

Thanks,
Marc
 
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BassCliff said:
You can use that relay. Just don't use the 87A terminal. ... The 87A terminal can be used if you ever wish to power another item directly from the battery.
Click to expand...
You can use it but it will only power something straight off the battery if the key is OFF. :eek:

One possible use for that terminal is to connect your battery tender.


BassCliff said:
I'm not really familiar with that style relay, but I would think the diode is there so that if you happen to connect two devices to 87/87A there will be no current flow from one device directly to the other. In other words, it keeps the current flowing from the battery to the devices and not "device to device".
Click to expand...
Actually, the diode is there to protect the circuit that feeds the relay.

When the trigger to the relay coil is turned OFF, there is a magnetic field that collapses and sends a spike back to the circuit. (This is the same principle that the coils use to fire the spark plugs, but on a smaller scale.) The diode prevents that spike.

.
 
Jim, Steve,

Thanks for the lesson. :)

I'll remember that next time.




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I need to be more patient LOL (hopefully I have learned). and wait for answers. even though my female connector is still functional it's not as good as it was before I hacked it.

I have a question about some of the connections in the coil relay mod. I have two wires coming from the ignition/kill switch that are orange white that connect to a connector one wire goes the the fuse box and the other to the ignitor. the two o/w wires off of the coils must connect in the wire harness and connect to the ignitor. so does the ignitor get disconnected?
Here is what I was thinking disconnect the O/W wire that goes to the fuse box from the kill switch and connect it to 86, and 87 to the wire that comes out of the ignitor and connects to the coils. 30 to fuse and then to + on battery 85 to - on battery.

Does this sound right? Just leave the wire from the fuse box and ignitor disconnected?

not sure why I am having such a hard time following the relay mod instructions.

Thanks,
Marc
 
Hi,

Even though each coil has its own orange/white wire feeding 12v, they are functionally the same, or one, wire.

When I added the coil relay mod I cut both orange/white wires under the tank. I put a spade connector on the pair of wires leading to the coils. I did the same for the pair of wires leading back into the wiring harness (toward the kill switch). The orange/white wires leading to the coil get connected to terminal 87 on the relay. The orange/white wires going back into the loom get connected to terminal 86 on the relay. Terminal 30 gets connected directly to the battery through a fuse. Terminal 85 gets connected to ground.

coil_relay_diagram.jpg



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I was making this way harder than it needed to be. I figured they all needed to be seperated out (except the two going to the coils. I did know they both went to 87) it was the ones going into the harness that had me confused.

TY again for your help BikeCliff.
 
prpldude said:
I was making this way harder than it needed to be. I figured they all needed to be seperated out (except the two going to the coils. I did know they both went to 87) it was the ones going into the harness that had me confused.

TY again for your help BikeCliff.
Click to expand...

:)

I know exactly what you mean. I was a little concerned when I started cutting wires on my wiring harness. But then the light went on. :idea:

All you're doing is cutting the voltage wires to the coils and then reconnecting them through the relay, so to speak. Connect the other relay terminals to the battery and ground. Easy like pie. I should have taken pictures. Sorry.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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BassCliff said:
:)

All you're doing is cutting the voltage wires to the coils and then reconnecting them through the relay, so to speak. Connect the other relay terminals to the battery and ground.
Click to expand...


Some like it that way :rolleyes:
 
BassCliff said:
:)

I know exactly what you mean. I was a little concerned when I started cutting wires on my wiring harness. But then the light went on. :idea:

All you're doing is cutting the voltage wires to the coils and then reconnecting them through the relay, so to speak. Connect the other relay terminals to the battery and ground. Easy like pie. I should have taken pictures. Sorry.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
you know, you can get away with cutting no wires at all, and then if your relay fails and you don't happen to bring one with you, can you simply return it to stock and remove the inline fuse so that the mod harness isn't recieving any power.

at least, thats what i did.
 
seuadr said:
you know, you can get away with cutting no wires at all, and then if your relay fails and you don't happen to bring one with you, can you simply return it to stock and remove the inline fuse so that the mod harness isn't recieving any power.

at least, thats what i did.
Click to expand...

I came up with a contingency plan too.

Should my relay fail and I find myself without a replacement, I have two ways to return to the stock circuit, one a little quicker than the other.

I fashioned a little jumper wire with two male spade connectors on each end. I can use it to reconnect the wires to the coils by removing those connections from the relay under the right side cover and inserting the jumper.

Under the tank where I cut the 12v coil wires, I put a male connector on one side and a female connector on the other. So I could also lift the tank, disconnect the wires running to the relay, and just plug the coil wires back in the way they were originally.

I thought about modifying the molex connector under the tank. I still might do that if I ever get bored out in the garage.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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I am not trying to keep my bike stock, and I don't mind cutting wires. I have changed the mirrors (still looking for some short black ones), brake light, and blinkers. I am in the process of converting gauge lights to LED's. Who knows maybe someday when I have money I will take her back to stock. But for now I want a bike to ride with nice bright lights, good charging system and nice spark.
I like the jumper wire idea "just in case". Thanks. I'll add that to my "on bike" tool kit.
 
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