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Cold #4 pipe idling after carb clean

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi
I recently stripped and dipped the carbs on my '82 GS750TZ in the hope of improving the bike's starting in the cold. The only really obvious problem I found was an obstruction over the filter of the needle valve on #1carb. The bike's starting is now better (but not brilliant) and it accelerates even better than before from a standing start so I'm pretty happy.

However, now, the #4 pipe only gets warm when the bike's idling. If I remove the plug after idling for a while, the plug is dry but black and sooty. After actually riding a few miles, the plug seems about the right colour. I've backed the fuel screw out to just quarter of a turn to try to lean the mixture (the other carbs are at 1 and 3/4 turns) but with no effect.
I haven't the equipment to check the compression or synch the carbs and I can't afford to have those jobs done until after Christmas. Might a carb synch cure the problem? Is is going to be a waste of time trying anything else before I've had those jobs done? If there's something else I can usefully try before then, what is it?

Thanks

Roger
 
So the problem started only after you cleaned the carbs? You either assembled something wrong or the carb synch' is off. Don't try to compensate by adjusting the mixture screw, put it back to where it was.
I'm not familiar with your carbs, but can you see the choke plunger FULLY closed when the choke is released? Check the coil/lead/sparkplug boot for good connections.
Are you sure you put all the carb parts back in correct position, order, etc?
 
A carb synch will unquestionably cure your problem.

To start. Back off the idle screw completely...then take another turn so you can SEEthe gap.

Since you cannot see the butterfly position (your head will not fit in the available area), pull the carbs.

Set the butterfly position to match the other carbs. ALL 4 must be completely closed, but ALL should begin to open at the same time. Adjust until this happens.

Re-install.

Adjust mixture/balance-synch carbs.


Ride on. :D :D
 
Thanks
I'm happy that I put the carbs back together OK - I'd never done it before so was extra careful with following the instructions on this site.

I guess I'll just put up with it until after Christmas when I can afford to get the carbs synched. Looks like it'll be cheaper to take it to a shop than to buy the equipment.

Roger
 
TEMS said:
Thanks
I'm happy that I put the carbs back together OK - I'd never done it before so was extra careful with following the instructions on this site.

I guess I'll just put up with it until after Christmas when I can afford to get the carbs synched. Looks like it'll be cheaper to take it to a shop than to buy the equipment.

Roger
Click to expand...
I bought a Carb Stix vacuum tool about 8 years ago for $30. There are several brands out there that are inexpensive and simple to use. You can easily learn how to do this and you will be more careful than a mechanic.
You also need a fan or two so the motor does'nt over heat.
Most shops average $60/hr+ for labor.
 
TEMS said:
Thanks
I guess I'll just put up with it until after Christmas when I can afford to get the carbs synched. Looks like it'll be cheaper to take it to a shop than to buy the equipment.

Roger
Click to expand...

You can also get a set of dial guages from JC Whitney (www.jcwhitney.com) for $50 if you're not keen on the mercury sticks. Even better, aks for a set for Chrismas.
 
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