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cold, cold blooded stock 85 Gs1150

  • Thread starter Thread starter Katarat
  • Start date Start date
Thanks for the tips

Katarat said:
Drain the carbs, remove fuel line to carbs & plug, install short piece of plugged fuel line to petcock, change oil & filter, fill fuel tank with alcohol free gas, & install 2-3 oz Stabil Storage fuel stabilizer
Click to expand...
 
I got the carbs off today. I thought the GS1100s were a PIA, they don't have squat on the 1150s for hard to work on. Carbs are a mess, got to order the o-ring kit. Getting them back on looks like sweetheart job too, not a lot of room to work them back in. I can see that the guy had been running the 10% alcohol gas in it. Hoping to get the carbs done and valves adjusted before the "Hawk" gets here. Ive lived out here in Montana for over 34 years and this is the first 1150 Ive ever seen. We had no Suzuki dealer back then
 
Do yourself a favor & get a set of APE pod filters & a Stage 3 jet kit. Carbs are MUCH easier to work on & & get in & out without the airbox & you will gain some airflow & power too. :)
Ray.
 
Steve said:
OK, here is your bike.
righton.gif.pagespeed.ce.-r7mnTcTEv.gif


GS1150_zpscdb56d0a.jpg


.
Click to expand...

Now, I'm seriously wondering if that bodywork will fit on an 850.
However, with the tubular frame, I think there's a better chance of this one doing so...
YdHBQho.jpg
 
That idea is looking real good about now. Ive got everything broke loose, pilot jets and 3 of the 4 mixture screws but that last one is kicking my butt. Ive tried penetrating oil and heat from a blow dryer but no luck. Screw head is shaky, not much left, prior owned must have been working on them, plugs are gone. When I did my 80 GS1100 everything was so bad it took 3 sets of carbs to make one good set
 
You are correct Steve, I rewired it that way to help prevent the starter clutch kick back because of the Yosh high compression pistons. It works perfectly with the kill switch mod :encouragement:



Steve said:
Somebody has done some re-wiring to your 'kill' switch.
As they come from the factory, GSes will not crank with the 'kill' switch in the OFF position.



Click on my username in the upper left corner, there is a link there to my e-mail. Send me the picture, I will post it for you.

.
Click to expand...
 
Had to buy a #2 carb off of Ebay. The PO destroyed any chance I had of getting # 2 mixture screw out. Ordered the o-ring kit last night and will order the Dynojet kit, pods and new valve cover gasket also today. Mo money, mo money. Would be cheaper to buy a Bandit or something but I like these bikes. I like working on them as much as riding them
 
Katarat said:
Had to buy a #2 carb off of Ebay. The PO destroyed any chance I had of getting # 2 mixture screw out. Ordered the o-ring kit last night and will order the Dynojet kit, pods and new valve cover gasket also today. Mo money, mo money. Would be cheaper to buy a Bandit or something but I like these bikes. I like working on them as much as riding them
Click to expand...

make sure you order the 8 biscuits/rubber washers for the valve cover also..
it will be oil tight for years...

FYI
you may seriously consider heli-coiling the cam caps (7mm) where the valve cover bolts attach.
every 1150 i have owned had thread failure from previous owners trying to stop oil weeps and over tightened.
these are on a shoulder and only tighten so much...hence threads getting soft/pulled.
it's time and money well spent and you can do one at a time while the VC is off.
 
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I tried penetrating oil & heat, the mixture screw is really in there. After I swap out this new/used carb body Ill try the reverse drill. To be honest I just didn't think of it. Blowerbike I think you answered my next question, can I helicoil them one at a time without removing the cams in the bike. Ill just go slow with the drilling & plenty of grease to catch the shavings. Thanks guys I don't know what Id do without you guys on the forum & your knowledge, much appreciated
 
i would remove each cam cap/heli-coil and replace...one at a time.
no need to stack the heli-coils...one per cap is fine....install it 2-3 threads from top/flush...call it good.
tork around 90 inch lbs on the (4) 6mm bolts.
the VC bolts have a shoulder(that's why they get stripped out)..100 inch lbs should be fine when installing the VC bolts.
 
Katarat said:
I got the carbs off today. I thought the GS1100s were a PIA, they don't have squat on the 1150s for hard to work on. Carbs are a mess, got to order the o-ring kit. Getting them back on looks like sweetheart job too, not a lot of room to work them back in. I can see that the guy had been running the 10% alcohol gas in it. Hoping to get the carbs done and valves adjusted before the "Hawk" gets here. Ive lived out here in Montana for over 34 years and this is the first 1150 Ive ever seen. We had no Suzuki dealer back then
Click to expand...

When removing and reinstalling the carb rack on my 1150E, I always stretched a bungee cord across the front of the airbox and that would reposition it about 3/4" rearward. Carb removal and installation was no problem and actually pretty doggone easy, not even remotely as difficult as on a 1100. Two minutes out and two minutes in.
 
Maybe Im just used to the 1100s. This was my first 1150 and it fought me all the way. Im committed to the pods now, bought the DJ kit but thats a tip Ill keep in mind.
 
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